Autohelm st4000 drive motor

[Sysunday]

From our forum in the netherlands I found the following:
It seems that the motor in the ST4000 is designated with type number "RS-555 SH".
Tha motor is readily availlable: in Europe for... € 3,90!!
See: here

[evm1024]

I have always wondered if an X5 or st4000 could be rigged to drive a hydraulic ram pump. Anyone try this?

I would think that using an H-bridge that is controlled by the X-5 and having the H-bridge drive the pump might work out ok. There may be some configuration settings (software or jumpers) that are there too that would change any timing constants.

Thoughts?

And, does anyone have a service manual for the SmartPilot X5?

[barnakiel]

How much power does the pump require? I think X5 stands fro 5 amps. Not sure about the 4000 model though.

Possibly a less powerful AP unit can be used to power a switch running a stronger pump? Sort of the way we do it on capstan relays?

b.

[Andrew G]

Guiddogday,
If you have a ST4000+ tiller pilot Raymarine in Sydney had some motors (I got one a few weeks ago ~Au$70 to Melbourne. They'll ask you to go through a local dealer but check availability first). They are available from China at ~Au$10 but it is worth the extra $ to get the right gear on the shaft etc.
The units are easy to get apart but make sure you undo the cable clamp at the back of the motor first. I have typed up a manual on how to completly pull them apart.
The difference between the old non-GP and GP version is that the latter has metal gears - my (plastic) one has done ~8 years of hard work and shows little sign of wear. I now have 2 units, the first failed half way across the Gulf of Carpentaria - lack of lubrication in the arm - had to hand steer for 2 days (and nights) - once luricated (lightly) it was fine again.
Cheers,
Andrew G

[barnakiel]

Originally Posted by Andrew G

(...) lack of lubrication in the arm - had to hand steer for 2 days (and nights) - once luricated (lightly) it was fine again.
Cheers,
Andrew G

Andrew,

Lack of lubrication - to open the unit and lubricate which parts - the threaded rods yes?

THX
b.

[Andrew G]

Barnakiel,
My ST4000+ was completly dry inside - the ball race couldn't be turned on the drive rod screw (it should fall and rotate under its own weight). I've attached my notes. I must stress that Raymarine advise that "there are no User Servicable parts inside" the push rod. But if one has to take it apart (I did - I was miles from nowhere 1/3 of my way into a trip around Aus with no working autopilot. A new one was eventually flown in from England) then my notes might help.
The hard bit is getting the viscosity of the lubrication right - I would suggest as light as possible.
To replace the motor, one does not have to take it all apart - only the back section near the pivot. A previous post, enclosing the manual, shows it well. Cheers,
Andrew G

[Guidogidday]

Thank you for your advice. Managed to pick one up from an engine rewind shop. However the cog has a smaller diameter. Consequently, replaced it with old one however the shaft is slightly narrower. Any idea of securing cod properly to shaft. Thinking of using loctite but are having my doubts about it's effectiveness

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by Guidogidday

Thank you for your advice. Managed to pick one up from an engine rewind shop. However the cog has a smaller diameter. Consequently, replaced it with old one however the shaft is slightly narrower. Any idea of securing cod properly to shaft. Thinking of using loctite but are having my doubts about it's effectiveness

You need an interference fit collar between the two. Any engineering shop or a friend with a lathe should be able to knock something up. It will need heat and cold to fit.

Pete

[barnakiel]

Originally Posted by Andrew G

(...) I've attached my notes. (...)

Andrew: most valuable post. Many, many thanks!

barnie

[Guidogidday]

Originally Posted by Pete7

You need an interference fit collar between the two. Any engineering shop or a friend with a lathe should be able to knock something up. It will need heat and cold to fit.

Pete

Thanks Pete. I assume it also needs to be secured by screws (threaded holes provided on front of motor) to prevent complete motor from spinning.

[Guidogidday]

Managed to get the cog on tight on new prescribed motor, but to my surprise, the motor struggles to turn wheel. After taking it from gear box and running it, I notice that by even slightly giving it resistance with one finger (pushing/holding cog) motor slips inside. When however I apply 12 volt direct from battery it's strong (much stronger). Obviously, there is power from the head unit but is this enough? Or is it perhaps due to faulty connection at the plug. I doubt either of them as both haven't been changed. Any clues/feedback to this mystery is much appreciated.

[barnakiel]

I will expand on the motors. Hope this helps someone at a point.

So, yesterday we had a look at a stuck older 1000 model. The motor is green plastic outer clearly marked Swiss made. In the newer take (same ap) the motor is just like the one in the (my guess) newer 4000 model: a Chinese off the mill drill machine motor.

Looks like we are paying 1k+ plus for toys with €4.0 value of Chinese motors in it?

b.

[Guidogidday]

Thanks everyone for assisting with my query. Autohelm working once more (faulty connectors).
Perhaps getting a little greedy/fancy but hoping to use remote control unit with 6m lead. Does anyone know how/where to connect the wires. (red, blue, green and negative)? Ta

[cas206]

Just adding my thanks to Andrew G for his instructions and to the other posters for identifying the motor. My boat came with a ST4000. I took a quick peek inside and the motor was a rusted lump. The rest of the unit looked fine. I ordered a motor for under $20 on Ebay and will be following the instructions to clean an lube the rest of it. Can't hurt to try before shopping a new one.