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Old 31-01-2015, 11:19   #91
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Re: The FrankenBebi Project

There were other collaborators last year. Can anyone track them down?
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Old 31-01-2015, 13:01   #92
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Re: The FrankenBebi Project

Hellosailor,

All good points.

As for pulsing, or switching supplies, the potential for EMI makes us want to keep the design completely linear. One of the strong points of the Bebi, and the FrankenBebi (and a few other commercial navlights). It sounds like you understand!
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Old 31-01-2015, 16:32   #93
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Re: The FrankenBebi Project

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Originally Posted by meridian28 View Post
There were other collaborators last year. Can anyone track them down?
I've been trading email with one of them, and have sent email to another. I think we can get the band back together, but I guess minus Cap.
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Old 01-02-2015, 02:10   #94
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Re: The FrankenBebi Project

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I've been trading email with one of them, and have sent email to another. I think we can get the band back together, but I guess minus Cap.
Excellent news
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Old 01-02-2015, 10:17   #95
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Re: The FrankenBebi Project

With the help of Paul, I am working on a design with a fresnal lens. Although the Bebi design is pretty bright, I would like to see if the fresnal lens enhances the brightness. For me the fresnal lens looks more nautical than a PVC pipe cap.
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Old 01-02-2015, 11:06   #96
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Re: The FrankenBebi Project

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Originally Posted by Celestialsailor View Post
With the help of Paul, I am working on a design with a fresnal lens. Although the Bebi design is pretty bright, I would like to see if the fresnal lens enhances the brightness. For me the fresnal lens looks more nautical than a PVC pipe cap.

Thanks to you and Paul for trying to get this back up and running. Our Bebi anchor lights (Blue one & White). are still the brightest in most anchorages. But we have experienced a high failure rate on all our Bebi lights. Somewhere around 50%. Sadly we have been going thru and slowly replacing them as they fail. The LEDs just stop working reducing the volume of light. So far in the past 8 years we have 3 anchor lights fail, and almost 1/2 of our other Bebi lights used in various applications have also failed. Bummer because we really like those lights and felt good about supporting the local Fijian economy.

Looking forward to your continued progress on the anchor light.

Chuck


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Old 02-02-2015, 10:08   #97
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Re: The FrankenBebi Project

Quote:
Originally Posted by Celestialsailor View Post
With the help of Paul, I am working on a design with a fresnal lens. Although the Bebi design is pretty bright, I would like to see if the fresnal lens enhances the brightness. For me the fresnal lens looks more nautical than a PVC pipe cap.
I placed my Bebi in my old anchor light case with the cheap plastic Fresnel
lens and it really helped. Kept the brightness consistent in the area between
the leds.
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Old 02-02-2015, 10:33   #98
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Re: The FrankenBebi Project

Chuck- have you been able to autopsy, or at least guess, why 1/2 failed in 8 years?
8 years, 365 days, 12 hours, that's 35,000 hours which "should" leave prime LEDs at maybe 60-70% brightness but still only 1/3 of their ultimate life, IIRC. In the worst case. I'd wonder if that is part of the "parallel diodes" problem, i.e., one LED is getting slightly more power, so it burns out first, taking out an entire string, then the next hero steps forward...
http://electronics.stackexchange.com...-parallel-leds for a comment on this design weakness.


You know, once upon a time, eight years between changing light bulbs was considered pretty good, actually. (G)


Celestial-
Have you tried a plain mirror [sic] polished disc above and belowe the light? After all, the Fresnel is just refracting (instead of reflecting) the off-axis light down onto the main axis, and a good reflective surface might accomplish "close enough" without molding costs. Perhaps even a shiny silver coat on the top & bottom of the plastic casting?


Of course a true Yachtsman would simply have someone of staff send that off to Waterford (having first bought Waterford to put them back in public business) to have a proper crystal casing & lens made up for it. (G)
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Old 02-02-2015, 11:30   #99
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Re: The FrankenBebi Project

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Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post
Chuck- have you been able to autopsy, or at least guess, why 1/2 failed in 8 years?
8 years, 365 days, 12 hours, that's 35,000 hours which "should" leave prime LEDs at maybe 60-70% brightness but still only 1/3 of their ultimate life, IIRC. In the worst case. I'd wonder if that is part of the "parallel diodes" problem, i.e., one LED is getting slightly more power, so it burns out first, taking out an entire string, then the next hero steps forward...
http://electronics.stackexchange.com...-parallel-leds for a comment on this design weakness.


You know, once upon a time, eight years between changing light bulbs was considered pretty good, actually. (G)


Celestial-
Have you tried a plain mirror [sic] polished disc above and belowe the light? After all, the Fresnel is just refracting (instead of reflecting) the off-axis light down onto the main axis, and a good reflective surface might accomplish "close enough" without molding costs. Perhaps even a shiny silver coat on the top & bottom of the plastic casting?


Of course a true Yachtsman would simply have someone of staff send that off to Waterford (having first bought Waterford to put them back in public business) to have a proper crystal casing & lens made up for it. (G)

Hi Hello Sailor

I am not sure why they are failing and your calcs would be correct if they were on 24/7 but only the anchor lights are on all the time but with the photo sens(auto on when dark) those hours are reduced by about 60%. For the most part the failures have been one bulb going out then another, etc. In some cases these were brand new anchor lights and failed within the first 180 days. I did buy a number of lights and passed then onto friends in Mexico. Another anchor light started off loosing about 25% of the bulbs then over time more and finally all of them. One light I had in the Aqua signal bi-bow light 3 bulbs on one side failed. In another case I noticed the anchor light flickering and then getting dim. Then about 10 minutes later bright again.

As you can see I am not giving you the technical information you need but hopefully this helps.

I am still a HUGE fan of the all blue anchor lights. They stand out by far above anything else and do NOT blend into background lights

Regards

Chuck
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Ecuador


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Old 21-03-2015, 23:51   #100
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Re: The FrankenBebi Project

Quote:
Originally Posted by Celestialsailor View Post
With the help of Paul, I am working on a design with a fresnal lens. Although the Bebi design is pretty bright, I would like to see if the fresnal lens enhances the brightness. For me the fresnal lens looks more nautical than a PVC pipe cap.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdempsey View Post
I placed my Bebi in my old anchor light case with the cheap plastic Fresnel
lens and it really helped. Kept the brightness consistent in the area between
the leds.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post
=
Celestial-
Have you tried a plain mirror [sic] polished disc above and belowe the light? After all, the Fresnel is just refracting (instead of reflecting) the off-axis light down onto the main axis, and a good reflective surface might accomplish "close enough" without molding costs. Perhaps even a shiny silver coat on the top & bottom of the plastic casting?

Ok...well it's taken me this long to come up with a design that works for me. I'm using a Perko fresnal lens, Delrin turned base and a 60 LED Photo sensing Bay15D bulb and a silicone encased cable. I have not built the SS hanger for it yet. Here are some pictures.
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Old 22-03-2015, 08:41   #101
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Re: The FrankenBebi Project

Celestialsailor, Nice design, but the photo cell to turn it on and off would be an excellent addition. Unless I missed something previously. Chuck
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Old 22-03-2015, 10:10   #102
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Re: The FrankenBebi Project

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Celestialsailor, Nice design, but the photo cell to turn it on and off would be an excellent addition. Unless I missed something previously. Chuck
The bulb unit is photo sensing. Which means it comes on at dusk and turns off at dawn. It's built into the bulb. To me, it make sense to just by a bulb and plug it into the socket rather than rebuilding a multi-separate bulb units.
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Old 22-03-2015, 11:17   #103
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Re: The FrankenBebi Project

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The bulb unit is photo sensing. Which means it comes on at dusk and turns off at dawn. It's built into the bulb. To me, it make sense to just by a bulb and plug it into the socket rather than rebuilding a multi-separate bulb units.
Very good. I guess I missed that. Chuck
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Old 22-03-2015, 12:00   #104
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Re: The FrankenBebi Project

Well, you've got six stacked pairs of LED emitters on each panel. That might replace one much brighter LED, but it is a little like having six men standing on each other's shoulders when you just needed a stepstool to see what was on the high shelf. Possibly a major waste of light and power depending on the details, possibly not. And since those bulbs are built on four panels at 90 degrees to each other...uneven distribution of light as opposed to a "rounder" source.


It might be a "good enough" economical way to do things though.


Fresnels of course were meant to take the light from a 360 degree source and squash that down and out into a much narrower "beam". LEDs start out life as a concentrated beam, somewhere between 10 and 180 degrees, often 20 degrees for the optimized directional ones, so the Fresnel itself...also may not be worth much on the right LED design. Sure makes 'em look more "engineered" though.(G)


By the way, I'd mention that *none* of the 1156/1157 type LED "tail light" bulbs has ever been certified as bright as the tungsten ones, none DOT approved for use, even though a rare few of them do look just as good. At least not a year or two ago. To match tungsten specs, I think you'd need about a dozen prime LEDs, each still costing over $5 a piece.
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Old 30-03-2015, 21:21   #105
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Re: The FrankenBebi Project

Quote:
Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post
Well, you've got six stacked pairs of LED emitters on each panel. That might replace one much brighter LED, but it is a little like having six men standing on each other's shoulders when you just needed a stepstool to see what was on the high shelf. Possibly a major waste of light and power depending on the details, possibly not. And since those bulbs are built on four panels at 90 degrees to each other...uneven distribution of light as opposed to a "rounder" source.


It might be a "good enough" economical way to do things though.


Fresnels of course were meant to take the light from a 360 degree source and squash that down and out into a much narrower "beam". LEDs start out life as a concentrated beam, somewhere between 10 and 180 degrees, often 20 degrees for the optimized directional ones, so the Fresnel itself...also may not be worth much on the right LED design. Sure makes 'em look more "engineered" though.(G)


By the way, I'd mention that *none* of the 1156/1157 type LED "tail light" bulbs has ever been certified as bright as the tungsten ones, none DOT approved for use, even though a rare few of them do look just as good. At least not a year or two ago. To match tungsten specs, I think you'd need about a dozen prime LEDs, each still costing over $5 a piece.
Actually there are 5 panels of 6 doubled up LED's on each panel (60 LED's). Walking around the light, it seems to be quite uniform.The fresnal lens both refracts and amplifies the light since LED's do not focus too well. To me...buying a ready-made bulb simplifies the design. I didn't want a heathkit type situation where I'm having to unsolder/solder, when I need to replace LED's. I question the 1157 socket not being approved. I have seen all kinds of these on boats, both outside on masts and interior. Mine is a Stainless BAY-15/1157 socket.
Here is a picture of it with the handle. 316 ss. I will probably add a ring around the lens to prevent it getting damaged if it swings into something hard. The orange cable is 12' long. In Mx., I find the Panga drivers never look up. Instead motor through an anchorage at eye level. The cig plug is fused.
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