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Old 26-10-2016, 11:38   #1
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Bench testing 4-108m

Finally my motors complete, and ready for bench test running. I have an idea of how this testing should go, but I'm not sure how to shut the motor off, after initial starting.

Can't pull a plug wire, or shut the key off, im proficient with most motors, but truthfully, this is the first Diesel I've ever gotten into.

Can you all tell me how I should shut the motor down. My initial trout was to secure the airflow, by plastic bagging the air filter. Theirs got to be a better way.

Any suggestions.

Thank you in advance.

Dirk
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Old 26-10-2016, 11:52   #2
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Re: Bench testing 4-108m

There should be a solenoid that shuts down the fuel flowing to the HP pump. Follow the fuel line from the lift pump.
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Old 26-10-2016, 12:02   #3
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Re: Bench testing 4-108m

The throttle cable connects to a lever on the upper outboard section of the injection pump, and this lever controls the rpm of the engine. Directly on the opposite side of the injection pump from the throttle lever, adjacent to the engine block, is another lever which is used to shut off the fuel and stop the engine. Usually this stop lever is connected to an electrical solenoid and controlled with the key or a stop button. The stop lever is usually spring loaded to pull back to the "run" position.

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Old 26-10-2016, 13:39   #4
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Re: Bench testing 4-108m

Ok, I've gone throu all my, manuals and it's making sense. I just don't recall the device, is it possible that the solenoid is bolted to the engine dog house? The boats in Moss Landing Ca, and the motor and I, are in southern Oregon.

I recall a couple solenoids, attached inside the engine dog house " cavity"

Note, I didn't take the motor out, a couple associates stayed up all night pulling it. I refused, as we had time before our scheduled crane appointment the next two days.

I'm wanting to leave early next week for a re install.

Also where exactly is the oil pressure sending unit on the motor. I thought that the tac " rpm" cable forward left as I look at the motor from the front, was the oil pressure sending unit.

Viewing the manuals, I discovered it's the tac drive. So now I'm confused. I clearly need to monitor engine oil pressure.

Can you tell,me where it's located and a reasonable way to confirm oil pressure

Sorry for,all the dumb questions, just trying to get it done right.

Thank you in advance.

Dirk
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Old 26-10-2016, 14:22   #5
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Re: Bench testing 4-108m

Here are two photos of a 4-108. Photo #one looks at the engine from port forward side. This particular engine has a remote oil filter and you are looking at the remote block and oil hoses. The white switch with the red wire is the oil alarm switch screwed into the remote filter block. To its right and hidden under the injection pump is another round sender with a single green wire attached, and this is the oil pressure sender which screws into an oil gallery on the side of the block. You can screw a mechanical gauge into either of these places.

Photo #2 is from the port rear and you see an electric stop solenoid mounted on a bracket. It has a black plastic end cap, but doesn't have a wire attached.

You can also see the throttle cable arm on the injection pump and the stop lever is directly opposite it on the inj. Pump as described earlier.

DougR
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Old 26-10-2016, 14:29   #6
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Re: Bench testing 4-108m

They often don't have any solenoid at all. A cable was connected to a lever near the injection pump. At any rate there is a lever around there somewhere to shut it down. If you shut it down by closing the intake DO NOT use your hand! Also, I wouldn't connect a garden hose to t he intake water hose, just put the garden hose in a bucket and let the intake hose draw from the bucket.
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Old 26-10-2016, 15:16   #7
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Re: Bench testing 4-108m

Whatever you do , have the intake tube open and have something stiff, like a piece of 2x6 or a hard back book available to put over the intake to kill it if by some chance it tries to run away.
Very unlikely of course , but never hurts to be prepared.
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Old 26-10-2016, 17:55   #8
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Re: Bench testing 4-108m

Ok, I've been reviewing all afternoon. I'm kinda concerned, but that's to be expected. Add oil 15 40 prime the pump,,and let er rip.

I'm thinking I need two runs of 15/30 minutes. After the first run, if needed I'll re adjust the valves. My recollection is 12 k on a feeler guage. I will re confirm via my manuals.

Priming the diesel pump, is done by the plunger on the aft side of the fuel lift pump?. Crack the fuel lines at the injectors for priming, when a study flow of diesel fuel is coming out, the pump should be lubed, loaded with diesel for primary start.

Hope I've got this right.

Guys the Hallberg RASSY 33 mistral was given to me, I've never ran it or sailed it. Hence my questions. This is a new SV to me. I really really want to get it right.

Monterey bay is calling my name.

Thank you all again.

Dirk
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Old 26-10-2016, 18:56   #9
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Re: Bench testing 4-108m

The 4108 can really be a pain to bleed. Bleed to the top of the CAV filter, then the line leading to the injector pump, then a small bleeder nut near the base of the pump, then a small bleeder nut on top of the anti stall nut (three nuts stacked on top of each other, slack the very top one).

There are a few pretty good videos online that show the extra steps involved better than anything I can type up on my tiny phone.

Even if you manage to get fuel up to the injectors, If you don't manage to get ALL the air out of the injector pump you'll be turning the engine over all day.

Finally, a plastic bag will just get sucked into the engine. There's a lot of force involved with the intake, best bet is to use a block of wood. Make sure it fits in the area well, the first time I started up my 4108 (after spending hours and hours bleeding it) it ran away on me and the block of wood I had was juuuuuuuust the slightest bit too big and wouldnt fit well enough to cover the intake. I would up straddling the damn thing while it was going crazy, jammed my hand deep into the injector space (under the exhaust) and had to yank as hard on that little lever as I possibly could.... It stopped the engine before it exploded, but a better sized block of wood would have been Mich less dramatic (I always keep said block of wood handy in the engine bay now by the way)

Good luck!

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Old 26-10-2016, 19:14   #10
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Re: Bench testing 4-108m

For years it was a hassle to bleed the 4-108 after changing the fuel filters following the procedure in the service manual. Then I figured out that if no air got introduced into the high pressure pump or the injectors then I just needed to bleed the air using the mechanical lift pump only. A lot simpler to do when just changing filters. FWIW
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Old 29-10-2016, 13:35   #11
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Re: Bench testing 4-108m

No joy!. Oil in motor, water in tank, for start. 12.2 v on the battery.
starter rebuilt.
turned the motor with the crank nut on the motor front, trying to flow oil into the oil filter. Can't cycle fast enough.

Purchased a universal oil pressure guage,20.00 great deal. Diesel in a 5 gallon plastic can plumbed.

Tank higher then motor.

Water in out lines in a LARGE 20 gallon bucket.

Starter motor won't spin the motor.
Tried spinning the motor again with a large socket, smooth cycling. Good compression.

Starter motor backed out and no worries.

We're scratching our heads. Why won't the started engage the fly wheel.

A couple of observations, this starter does not have a solenoid. And everything on this motor is mechanical, no solenoids on the diesel pump.

Lastly do I need to,so,e how,plug the RPM guage circuit on the block?

I'm stumped, I'll be back in the books in a bit, does anybody have an idea. FYI, this is an early 4-107m really,only small difference.

I know it's something simple. My mechanic is scratching his head. He's on old Motörhead and great machinist, he's making some calls.

This is a 12 v motor right?

Help please.

Thanks in advance.

Dirk
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Old 29-10-2016, 13:45   #12
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Re: Bench testing 4-108m

Does the starter spin but not engage? or not spin at all? If it spins, your centrifugal drive is bad or dirty or wrong assembled. If no spin, re check the starter assembly process. The crank turns readily? ie: your piston/ring/bearing clearances aren't too tight?
Some boats were 24 volt, do you know yours is?
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Old 29-10-2016, 13:58   #13
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Re: Bench testing 4-108m

Thank,you for the return email. I think everything lines up, I don't think the slip,fit from starter to fly wheel is binding. I don't know.


Everything " fly wheel, bell housing, clutch, went on nice and smooth. Good fit to the gear on gear, motor hand spun after fly wheel install, starter motor gears smooth.

As for 24 v, I don't know. I didn't pull the motor, however I remember seeing a very oversized battery, along with a couple house batteries. The size of the large battery WOULD be consistent with 24 v batteries I've seen in the past.

Worst case I'll pull it all apart and start over, if need be. Going to be a classical music kinda day tomorrow.

I'll research this possibility as well.

Thank you for your input.

Dirk
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Old 29-10-2016, 14:08   #14
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Re: Bench testing 4-108m

remove the starter with the electrical attached, ground it, try it and see if it spins.
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Old 29-10-2016, 14:20   #15
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Re: Bench testing 4-108m

Grounding! The motors on the bench on wood blocks. Other then the battery grounding their is no motor ground. I'll try that first tomorrow morning.

Thanks.

Dirk
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