Bench testing 4-108m

[Dirk Williams]

I get it, I'm sitting here going thru multiple Perkins 4-107/8 m manuals. Also passing out candy to the local trick or treaters, love guessing what these costumes are.

Surprisingly some of the costumes are rather complex. Fun times.

Thanks for the input.

DW

[GILow]

Dirk,


Another thing, and please forgive me if I am stating the obvious, but re-reading what you wrote I wonder if the water in the engine initially came from a failed seal on the water pump. I don't know the engine in question, but from what you say it has a cam driven water pump.


I loathe, detest and despise cam driven water pumps, ever since the seal on Dad's $@#$*! Volvo stern drive failed on the first day of what was supposed to be a week or so of my wife and I exploring the Gippsland Lakes. The mongrel thing dumped its contents into the sump of the Volvo donk, and before we were an hour from our departure point there was more steam coming out of the sump breather than Puffing Billy on a weekend at Monbulk.


So instead of a week of camping and finding new beaches, we limped back to Paynesville where I stripped the stupid thing off the engine using two shifters and a hacksaw blade for a screwdriver. Took it back to Melbourne and had a REAL pump drive shaft made up from stainless instead of mild steel, toted the crap back to Paynesville, bolted it back onto the engine and had a one day "holiday" instead.


Did I mention I don't like cam driven water pumps...? Oh, yeah, I did.


And BTW, not wanting to insult anyone, but make sure you didn't make the mistake of picking the WRONG TDC for piston 1. 4 stroke engines have TWO TDCs on piston one, and I've seen enough distributors on old cars rotated 180 degrees to know that is easy to get the wrong TDC.


Matt

[Dave in Eugene]

My 4-108 had a stiff wire (coat hangar) attached to the fuel shut off lever directed to the rear of the engine. I never minded jumping down into the engine room to shut it off as it forced a visual mechanical exam regularly. Good luck

[Dirk Williams]

Finally got the motor to run. I delivered the 4-108m to a old diesel mech who knew his way around the 4108. Took two hours, which the first 1.1/2 houses were utilized to tie down the engine, and plumb fuel lines and water lines for running.

The mechanic, ran a hot wire to a sort of glow plug on the air intake, under the factory air cleaner. Heated the air and the motor fired in seconds.

I hadn't even considered the sort of,glow,plug, as the shop is roughly 75 degrees inside. He fired the motor roughly 10 times.

Well run the motor for an extended period of time today. I wasn't present but the mech had reviewed my work and timing procedures and said we had it all correct.

I did listen to the motor via the phone, couldn't hear much, however the mech said the motor was running very smooth thru the rpm range.

This afternoon we will,run the motor looking for any leaks or problems.

I would have never thought to wire the glow plug, or whatever it's called. I slept like a baby last night, knowing we got it right.

Dirk

[Cheechako]

Wow, I bet that is a relief. Surprised though, my 4-108 had a glow plug, but I never had to use it... even here in WA state in the winter. I think I used it once when cold and the engine didn't start right up like usual.

[Dirk Williams]

Thank you.. I'm sitting here re reading one of the Perkins manuals. I'm going over the starting section. The book clearly states that the HS must be engaged for 15/20 seconds.

I'm thinking I've read this a dozen times now and simply didn't comprehend HS, on the starter switchs. Which is apparently a big deal on my motor.

They say life IS the lesson. Anyways after it worms up Dave, " the mech" and me will run the motor for an extended period, hoping 15/20 minutes then review for leaks and other stuff, which might be wrong.

It's easier to,make corrections while the motors out of the boat, then in the boat.

I'll keep you posted. Hopefully someone else following can learn from my mistakes.

Dirk

[Dirk Williams]

Got a couple 1/2 hour runs on the motor, and discovered some minor concerns. I only used a rubberized gasket on the timing cover. Although their wasn't a leak, the mechanic was certain a leak was a certainty.

He pulled the front cover and using a lock tight product re-sealed the front-timing cover. A couple fuel fittings needed re tightened, and the mech discovered a slight crack in the oil cooler radiator, port.

20.00 to have it sodered ? Pressure tested, checks good.

As the mech pointed out no one thing is critical, and was fixable on/in the boat, but much simpler on the test bench.

She's firing right up, and sounds solid with no timing issues. The oil pressure is sound no water leaks, well that's not quite accurate.

The jabsco pump pisses water on initial start up, as the motor spins the jabsco pump the dripping stops. I'll likely change this pump out next month, and rebuild the present one for my large and getting larger parts bin.

Also ordered a lift pump rebuild kit, for my old lift pump. I'll care another new one, and then rebuild this one as a second backup.

One more 3/4 to hour run for review, then off to the boat for installation.

Just an FYI for those who had shared input.

Dirk