This is the situation I am in, but I don't know how it will turn out. The price
I paid was under any other sold according to a list of sold boats I saw posted recently, so the starting point is in my favor.
cylinder 37 YO Yanmar engine
that started right up at 50 degrees F (and I know it was the first start of the day because I was sleeping on the boat) - I am lead to believe that a really pooched diesel
wouldn't consider starting at this temperature. Blue exhaust
for about 15 seconds, then nice and clear. Back up plan one is to draft
my truck mechanic
buddy up the road if I run into trouble. Back up plan two is $12,000 ...
were average sails
, old but the stitching looks good. I am not interested in the last 0.1 knot
, so should do a number of years.
is likely 37 year old original, but boat is fresh water
only. If I had a dollar for every time I ran into the wisdom that rigging
should be changed every 10 years, and a dollar for every boat I looked at that had original decades old rigging (at least 80 or 90%), I'd be rich twice. This is for me likely the biggest technical mystery in sailboats: complete opposition between what (is said) should be done and what is actually done. I am going to lift
the chain plates and inspect the rigging for issues, but other than that, not changing it this year. I am a beginner, I won't be doing anything too wild for a few years yet that will exercise the rigging.
Cores: I have work. At least the cockpit
floor, under the primary winches, and one stanchion. Generally high deck
moisture readings everywhere, but then the survey
was done 2 hours after lift
out in the fall with visible moisture on the hull
in places. There are reasonable chances that if I get the boat under a canopy and dry off the surface, my meter might give more favorable readings. Percussion soundings were good except in cases noted above.
has already been epoxy
barrier coated, so hopefully the blister problems, if any, are in the past.
Plenty of 37 year old gate valves, and likely 37 year old hoses attached to same, so a complete replacement or close to it is required of the plumbing
is botched. Some work was done by the previous electrician owner, so of coarse regular house wire was used for the 120 volt stuff. No battery
spill boxes, or any mechanical restraint of the batteries. Automotive battery charger
. Home made shore power
cords. All botched.
is "tired". No idea if this means I have 1 year or 5.
No significant electronics
. Likely the 7 YO VHF
isn't even legal
as I could not find a sticker. Knotmeter
sounders have ruined LCD displays, they (apparently) work, I just can't quite make out the digits though. I don't have desire for much here. Not sure I would even replace the knotmeter
for the > $1000 it looks like this pair costs. About the only electronics
I really covet is AP, and am trying to talk myself into a robust under deck
system at about $5000. It is much of money
, but to my way of thinking of more practical utility than all other electronics put together. Dropping a lead line 5 minutes here or there, reading paper charts
and sailing by walking around and paying attention seems a whole lot less work that steering
4 straight hours, whereupon your partner takes over and does same. Rinse and repeat.
The boat is coming to my front (or side, not sure) yard tomorrow. I have 28 acres and those are the only 2 spots that are both level and accessible.
I really need to decide if this is a short term boat or long term. It really isn't what I wanted, but domestic pressure was bearing down and I had to buy something ... anything. When the end came, I had to choose between standing in front of a Douglas 32 or an Ontario
32. Douglas 32 sounded in way better shape, so if I were a 5'3" sailor I would have picked it. I am 6'4", so the Ontario
32 got the nod, warts and all. If this is the only boat I ever own, I could see myself being physically comfortable in it, and making it my own. The Douglas would always lack headroom
and have a 9.5 foot beam. My capital expenditure plan needs to know up front whether I hold < 5 years or "forever". If forever, I might as well put another $15,000 or $30,000 into it now while it is easy to work on and I have the full force of my tooling and shop behind me. If a short term boat, I must resist the urge to spend money
I both won't get back, nor use up the equipment
the money paid for.
So if a short term boat, I need to do the seacocks and hoses, fix the core
, inspect chainplates and standing rigging, and replace the electrical system
. To do all this I am probably committed to another $7000 to $10,000, putting me north of $30,000 to get started. I am pretty sure I failed to get a great deal.
Next up would be stuff like AP, depth and knotmeter. To do this implies I think I am owning the boat for a longer rather than shorter term.
Finally comes the engine
, which at 12 HP and raw water
cooled, limits me I think to staying fairly close to home on the Great Lakes
. Changing the engine I think really says this boat is a keeper. Maybe a heat exchanger
can be hacked onto my engine, I don't know, but at only 2HP/ton, the engine is considered under sized I think.
Do all the above, and my bargain boat is at $50,000 give or take, a number higher than the ask price
on all the other O32s currently for sale
, and I have not replaced any rigging, sails, or canvas
yet, that would be another $15,000 or so. Of coarse, my load for the next 10 years would be considerably lighter I think, as much of the major important stuff would all be new.
The adventure begins.