Spotless Stainless ?

[landonshaw]

I saw on a thread a product called Spotlas Stainless. Island Water World carries it in the Caribbean so we are able to get our hands on it. You brush it on Stainless, wait 30 and wash it off. My question is:

Does it work?

Can you wash it off with salt water? then rinse salt off with fresh water. Want to conserve the fresh water.

I will then apply a coat of wax 24 hrs later.

Will it work????

[cabo_sailor]

I'm not familiar with the product, I usually use the liquid version of Bar Keeper's Friend. I don't know for certain but is it wise to wax stainless steel? I've heard it leads to corrosion if it air can't get to the metal.

Rich

[osirissail]

Yes, it works using Citric Acid as the rust remover. Another company Wichard makes and sells Wichinox which also contains an acid to dissolve the iron rust. They are both used almost exactly the same. I have used Wichinox for years with good results, but it is not cheap. And you want to use rubber gloves with either as you will be getting "acid" (weak, but still acid) on your hands. I would suggest polishing afterwards to try to seal the remaining chrome from further attack.
See for further discussion: SSCA Discussion Board • View topic - "Spotless stainless steel" reviews?

[Cotemar]

Have been using Collinite 920 to clean my SS for years.
Works fast removing brown stains.

Oh and by the way, it cleans fiberglass great also.

Liquid Fiberglass Boat Cleaner

[landonshaw]

Thanks, I will buy some and report on wht I find. Dave

[Therapy]

Originally Posted by cabo_sailor

I'm not familiar with the product, I usually use the liquid version of Bar Keeper's Friend.

Rich

.............

[bstreep]

I'm one of the early adopters of the product. We still have a couple of quarts. Here's what we do:

We use Spotless Stainless on all of the tough to get at spots. Corners, fittings, and anywhere that stainless touches fiberglass - it also cleans up rust spots on fiberglass around the stainless. Just a word of caution: Make SURE you remove all of it. If left on for a period of days, we've found that rust comes back with a passion. The manufacturer swears it shouldn't do this - but we've found that it does. Just make sure you completely rinse the stainless. We've not tried using saltwater for a rinse.

For long runs and large items of stainless, we've found that Miracle Cloth actually lives up to its name. It works GREAT. WM carries it.

[CarlF]

I've used it for about a year. Love the stuff. It will get the rust out of crevices that you can't get with a regular polish and hand cloth. This really isn't comparable to polishes like Collinite, Flitz or NeverDull. It's a chemical reaction.

No rubbing is required - or even helps. Just dab the gel on. Doesn't appear to bother fiberglass. I don't think I'd let it get near clear plastics but don't have any experience.

My favorite application are lifeline stanchion base screws heads and welds. Simply remarkable results. I was skeptical but now believe the manufacturer's claims that rust comes back more slowly after several treatments.

Two important rules.

It must be warm (above 70F). Won't be a problem in Grenada.

It must not dry during the 20 or 30 minute time it needs to work. I simply do circuits of the deck with a foam brush dabbing on a new layer before the old can dry. I would not try it when the sun is high. I don't know if you can rinse with salt water but you can certainly try. Just rinse well so the Spotless Stainless doesn't dry on the surface.

Home - Spotless Stainless Removes Rust, Protects Stainless Steel

Carl

[Jim Cate]

G'Day all,

Coincidentally, I was looking at a lot of stained stainless just this morning. Grabbed my trusty tube of Wichinox -- bugger! It's empty!

It is also bloody expensive here in Oz, and I was no where near a source... what to do??

Got to thinking... this expensive stuff seems to be a polishing abrasive and a weak acid to attack the rust stains. Hmmmm. So, I got out the tin of rubbing compound (cutting compound to Aussies) which one can buy at any hardware or automotive store. Then I mixed up about a tablespoon of Oxalic acid crystals (also available at the hardware store for little cash) with a few spoonfuls of water, added a couple of spoons of the rubbing compound and mixed well. Got a disgusting greenish slurry from this activity. Tried rubbing some on a badly stained stanchion... WOW! It really worked, removing the stains in a few seconds. Let it dry for a few more seconds and polished it briefly with some old towling, and Voila! it looked great.

IN short, this micky mouse stuff worked as well as the high priced spread for getting the s/s looking good again, and with remarkably little work. My kinda stuff!

The Wichinox folks claim that use of it will passivate the s/s and render it more resistant to staining. I dunno... never seemed to do that for me, but it's hard to prove either way. I certainly don't claim that this mixture will do that, but who knows? I believe that one could use phosphoric acid (often used in passivation processes) in the same way, but I didn't have any on board. May well give it a try at first opportunity.

Oh yeah... probably should use gloves. I didn't, and my hands haven't fallen off yet, but prudence might be good.

I'd be interested if anyone else has tried or will try this mixture. I'll sure be finishing up the remainder tomorrow (if it doesn't rain too much).

Cheers,

Jim and Ann s/v Insatiable II lying Towlers Bay, NSW, Oz

[capngeo]

Ospho works well for me

[Pblais]

Bar Keepers Friend is Oxalic acid (wood bleach). Cleans stainless (hence the name). Cleans rust on anything and is exceptional on fiberglass. Very mild abrasive. Dirt cheap. Cleans teak too. I store it in a ziplock bag. A must have product.

Wichinox is phosphoric acid and is used to passivate stainless steel. It works well for protection. Expensive but is handy for special things that contact salt water.

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by Pblais

Bar Keepers Friend is Oxalic acid ...
Wichinox is phosphoric acid ...

And Ospho is also phosphoric acid.

[Maine Sail]

As far as I know there are only two acids that ASTM lists as re-passivating acids for stainless steel and those are Nitric & Citric. Seeing as you can't easily get Nitric then the other option is Citric.

I have used Wichinox and found the rust came back quite fast. I switched to Spotless Stainless and find it works as advertised and the stainless stays rust free a LOT longer when used correctly.

Other acids can cause the stainless to pit and frost (dull) and expose them to rusting faster as they don't really re-passivate the stainless. They may remove the rust well but it can damage the stainless and allow the rust to come back faster.

I experimented quite a bit with some old stainless bits and found the Spotless Stainless kept the stainless longer than other acids and also left it significantly more shiny.

While a touch expensive it works and works well in my experience.

[CarlF]

+1 to Maine Sail's comments. You really need to give Spotless Stainless a try before thinking it's like other stuff. I'm a big fan of Bar Keepers friend and have Ospho aboard too. Different beasts (well, "acids").

I honestly can't remember the last time some boat miracle cleaner surprised me (in a positive way). This stuff did. i still use the other cleaners for regular cleaning but a twice a year treatment of problem areas with Spotless Stainless is now part of my routine.

Carl

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by Maine Sail

As far as I know there are only two acids that ASTM lists as re-passivating acids for stainless steel and those are Nitric & Citric ...

Indeed.
See ➥ How To Passivate Stainless Steel Parts : Modern Machine Shop

Phosphoric acid is used to provide limited protection as a rust converter* on ferrous metals, like mild steel.

* Phosphoric acid converts the iron oxide (rust) to a stable metalophosphate.