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Old 12-08-2009, 19:29   #46
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Steve,
Thanks I will swap the shunt leads.... Is this thing like anchor discussions, some like it some dont. I honestly dont know enough yet to like or dislike just trying to make it work? Maybe I cant??

Bill, thanks for the info, I agree with most of what you say. However, it is hooked up and will see what happens. Again thanks for the reply, certainly no slams from me..
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Old 12-08-2009, 23:07   #47
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Great!..Thanks guys for popping my happy bubble...I have purchased the newer model Link Pro but haven't installed it yet...What he heck its already bought so in it goes..Im a sucker for staring at twinkly lights with a half buzz on so Ill get good use out of it regardless...

Carry on
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Old 15-08-2009, 23:31   #48
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Bill - I quite agree. Mine is flawed, for sure, and I treat it as just another data point... certainly not an absolute. But I can see the temptation to take it too literally, given all those unambiguous-looking digits!

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Old 16-08-2009, 04:05   #49
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It appears that everything is working except I appear to have a 5 amp draw that I dont know where it is coming from? I have disconnected everything and it is still there, Im wondering now if it is a defective unit. Oh well.
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Old 16-08-2009, 04:31   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheechako View Post
Dont worry Betrayfors, these Link Lovers are the same ones that believe a digital meter is more accurate... because it reads to more digits!...
I believe my good digital meters to be more accurate than my good analogue meter (Simpson 260, from the 1960s) because it they ARE more accurate - way more accurate (0.09% vs 2.5-3.0%).
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Old 16-08-2009, 20:01   #51
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They are way easier for old eyes to see too..
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Old 11-09-2009, 15:22   #52
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Having used a Link 10 for 7 years, I can say that I get a lot of utility out of simply monitoring AH in and out without worrying too much about the "fuel gauge" feature, CEF, etc. On a cruise, I run the engine twice daily for 40 minutes to charge batteries and Seafrost engine-driven refrigeration. I record AH before and after charging. This gives me all the data I need to manage energy consumption and replacement. A gradual build-up in negative AH is taken care of by motoring on windless days. A digital voltmeter may be used to measure state of charge but you need to measure at-rest voltage (no drain for 24-48 hours), impractical in a cruising scenario.
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Old 15-09-2009, 02:42   #53
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is there a (relatively) simple way of determining battery "health"?

i have a link 10 and a digital multi-meter and a very basic understanding of electrics
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Old 15-09-2009, 04:32   #54
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Bob:
Read & understand the Link 10 E-Meter Owner’s Manual:
At ➥ http://www.evalbum.com/tech/e-mtrpdf.pdf
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Old 15-09-2009, 04:51   #55
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Quote:
is there a (relatively) simple way of determining battery "health"?
The Link 10 does a great job with battery state, but it assumes decent health. The ability to hold a charge would be more a factor of health and you need a load test device for that. Indirectly the link 10 will show low voltage at the same time it shows good capacity as a sign of poor health. Equalization may be a good solution unless the batteries have cycled themselves beyond the useful life or been subject to harsh conditions.
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Old 15-09-2009, 05:21   #56
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paul: thanks

gord: unfortunately didn't have a manual and couldn't find one on the xantrex site but thanks for your contribution
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Old 15-09-2009, 07:12   #57
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Oops - Sorry if I came across as a smartass.
I meant to indicate that the original Cruising Equipment* “Link” Manual is very helpful & informative, and can be downloaded here:
http://www.evalbum.com/tech/e-mtrpdf.pdf

* Though he hasn’t been active on CF since May/09, our member Rick is probably the world’s foremost expert on this equipment.
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ick-21590.html
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Old 21-09-2009, 14:20   #58
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I'm just installing my LinkPro battery monitor. The boat is wired with the #1 100 amp hour starter battery negative pole as the common ground bus (all negative leads are attached to the starter battery negative terminal and from their to ground) for both banks. 1. If I'm reading this right, I have to run each bank to separate terminals on the shunt bar for the LinkPro to read proper battery usage. 2. What about the individual grounds that run to the starter battery 'bus' terminal like the windlass. Will they not read as a discharge on the Linkpro if left attached to the starter battery terminal or will it be picked up as a discharge of the #1 battery only irregardless of the battery switch setting?? 3. Do any other individual ground leads need to be attached to one or the other poles of the shunt based on expected usage?? Since most of these loads will be from the #2 house bank, is that where I ground the boats circuit breaker panel??

All positive leads run off the battery switch, either through the circuit breaker panel or direct, like the windlass, through it's own breaker.
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Old 21-09-2009, 15:26   #59
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Solar Ground

Forgot, does the solar ground need to go through the LinkPro shunt or through the main ground??
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Old 21-09-2009, 15:27   #60
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House battery bank negative pole --> 500A shunt --> large negative bus bar --> engine and all other grounds, excepting start battery ground which connects to same ground point on the engine.

The shunt will then measure all loads drawn from the house batteries. Forget about loads on the start battery; they're quickly replaced when the engine is running, even the windlass.

JMO,

Bill
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