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Old 30-04-2008, 18:51   #31
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Yea, I know:] Didn't they go out of business shortly there after?
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Old 30-10-2008, 09:20   #32
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Why folding prop?

Seems to me that simply putting your drive into neutral will allow your prop to spin under sail, causing less drag. I don't have the real numbers, and don't really know how free the propeller is to spin under this condition, but it seems to me this is the most sensible thing to do if you want to increase speed a little. Fixed is better than mechanical in my opinion in order to save on maintenance.

I suppose it depends on the engine and drive train, but does anyone know how free a prop is to spin in neutral? I have a Yanmar Engine.

Also, does anyone really notice speed increases with folding props?

Thx.
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Old 31-10-2008, 17:00   #33
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My current boat has a 2 blade Gori folding prop and I notice a significant difference when I start sailing after motoring. For example, if the prop is freewheeling and I'm sailing at 6 knots and I fold it by putting the shifter momentarily in reverse, the boat speed picks up at least a knot.

Steve B.
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Old 31-10-2008, 18:32   #34
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prop loss

I do a lot of sailing but also own and run one of those stink-pots with a big diesel motor and a big prop. Some of the pros and people in the know use epoxy or 5200 on outer prop nuts after torquing down(5200 must set before splashing boat same with epoxy) that way prop stays on until you remove it may take heat. Ed
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Old 31-10-2008, 19:49   #35
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Originally Posted by eyschulman View Post
Some of the pros and people in the know use epoxy or 5200 on outer prop nuts after torquing down(5200 must set before splashing boat same with epoxy) that way prop stays on until you remove it may take heat. Ed
Thereby requiring that the boat be hauled to pull the prop. Stupid idea, IMHO.
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Old 31-10-2008, 20:53   #36
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Not as stupid as loosing the prop- what about under water epoxy
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Old 01-11-2008, 12:52   #37
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Not as stupid as loosing the prop- what about under water epoxy
Props are designed to stay on for the life of the boat without using epoxy or 3M 5200. if you feel you have to resort to these extraordinary measures to ensure your prop stays on, then you haven't installed it properly.
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Old 01-11-2008, 16:18   #38
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Well you can search boatdiesel.com for multiple discussions on prop installation many by very credible professionals. On props with shafts and nuts both epoxy and 5200 are recommended along with carter pins and aircraft wire techniques. On the bow thruster props the screws holding zincs and prop are also installed with a locking material. I do not think this extra step is extraordinary just prudent. Props do come off and assuming that they were put on wrong has some truth, but why not take the small extra step to make the installation more secure and possibly save a marginal situation. It's a little like using lock-tight on bolts and nuts that are under higher stress to come loose.
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Old 01-11-2008, 17:01   #39
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On props with shafts and nuts both epoxy and 5200 are recommended along with carter pins and aircraft wire techniques.
14 years in the recreational boating industry and I have never seen nor heard of any pleasure craft that used epoxy or 5200 to secure any part of the prop or its fasteners.
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Old 01-11-2008, 17:32   #40
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Go to boatdiesel.com look up articles or posts (Tony Athens) under props. It might be time to learn something new to you. I was an Md. and as a consultant saw many bright individuals with 20-30 years of experience who were unaware of newer or better ways to do things. You don't have to like this method or agree with it but it is real and based on good logic and considerable experience.
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Old 01-11-2008, 18:43   #41
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Originally Posted by eyschulman View Post
Go to boatdiesel.com look up articles or posts (Tony Athens) under props. It might be time to learn something new to you. I was an Md. and as a consultant saw many bright individuals with 20-30 years of experience who were unaware of newer or better ways to do things. You don't have to like this method or agree with it but it is real and based on good logic and considerable experience.
I don't doubt that Tony Athens is an expert but a prop should be able to be pulled without hauling the boat, IMHO. Further, if epoxying any of the prop parts was a good idea, I suspect the manufacturers would recommend it. But they don't. Yes, it is possible that a properly installed prop can be lost. But it is a rarity and doesn't call for extreme measures, IMHO. But it's your (or whomever's) boat and your dime. If you want to haul the boat for a simple prop repair, knock yourself out.

Maybe I'm biased since removing and re-installing props is only what I do for a living.
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Old 01-11-2008, 21:29   #42
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I don't doubt that Tony Athens is an expert but a prop should be able to be pulled without hauling the boat, IMHO. Further, if epoxying any of the prop parts was a good idea, I suspect the manufacturers would recommend it. But they don't.
A lot of dumb ideas are new and some are older than they pretend to be.

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Maybe I'm biased since removing and re-installing props is only what I do for a living.
After 14 years of experience if you don't get a bit biased I would wonder why anyone would still hire you. I guess it is called the curse of experience. Destined to go to work everyday just because you seem to know what the heck you are doing. Has anyone ever complained that you removed a prop that came off too easy? I always assumed that the ones that came off too easy were already off?
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Old 01-11-2008, 22:09   #43
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More importantly, you DO have to remove the prop occasionally. If you use 5200, this will be a much more difficult process. As for epoxy, most epoxy will not stick to metal. If you get one that will, the prop will not be coming off without damaging something. The Gori really has very few parts that can come loose, and seems to have sufficient systems in place to hold it. Other props such as the Maxi Prop, have cotter pins set up, that, if installed correctly, will not allow the prop to come loose, until you take them loose.
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Old 02-11-2008, 15:39   #44
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small clarification the 5200 and epoxy are not used to glue prop on they are used only on thread of last nut or bolt or locking threaded what ever to act as a underwater locktite- This can be removed with a little extra force. The concept is similar to locktite on bolts except it is under water.The idea is that the prop is not coming off until you take it off- If the trade off is that a tech. has to work harder for a under water removal that suits me fine I will pay the price to know that that prop is less likely to loosen. As to manufacturers telling customers the best way to install something-I wound not bet too much on that-Like all the motor manufacturers and builders inform owners how to prop there boats to prevent overload and a short motor life(you can sell more boat if they go fast and more motors if they don't last long)
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Old 02-11-2008, 15:47   #45
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As to manufacturers telling customers the best way to install something-I wound not bet too much on that-Like all the motor manufacturers and builders inform owners how to prop there boats to prevent overload and a short motor life(you can sell more boat if they go fast and more motors if they don't last long)
How many expensive Gori props would you or your friends buy if they had a history of falling off? It is in the manufacturer's best interests to ensure their customers get a lifetime of use from their products. Especially when it is common knowledge that prop loss or failure is a relatively rare occurance.
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