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Old 22-12-2009, 08:47   #31
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I've used the debond product and loaned it to friends for use on both silicone and 5200. It works like a charm. Everyone that has borrowed it immediately ordered a can for themselves.

A prior post asked how it compares to the product sold by WM. I can't say from personal experience but a testimonial on their website claims the difference is extreme. Their website also has some interesting video showing how to use the product.

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Old 22-12-2009, 08:56   #32
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Originally Posted by cabo_sailor View Post
I've used the debond product and loaned it to friends for use on both silicone and 5200. It works like a charm. Everyone that has borrowed it immediately ordered a can for themselves.

A prior post asked how it compares to the product sold by WM. I can't say from personal experience but a testimonial on their website claims the difference is extreme. Their website also has some interesting video showing how to use the product.

Rich

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Interesting, I will look at the can of stuff from West Marine but I thought it was DeBond...

Perhaps not!
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Old 22-12-2009, 10:09   #33
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West is generally very good about "I bought this stuff and it doesn't work" and they'll usually give you a refund on the spot. I tried to take off some black scuff marks with a cleaner that said it would do exactly that--and it didn't. Went back and for the next half hour one of the managers came out and tried other cleaners too, because he said I could certainly have a refund but they'd like to get me something that WORKED.
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Old 22-12-2009, 10:54   #34
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The stuff from west is "Anti Bond 2015", so I was mistaken, this is different stuff.
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Old 22-12-2009, 18:03   #35
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The last time I used Marine Formula was about a year and a half ago. I had a gooseneck fitting on a Catana mast that I was getting repainted, and I wanted all extraneous fittings off of it. I removed the machine screws to discover the fitting was glued, as well. I squirted the DeBond around the edge of the gooseneck and let it sit for about twenty minutes. The edge began to soften, so I introduced several paint scrapers into the edge and sprayed some more De-Bond. Every twenty minutes I tapped the scrapers deeper and sprayed more into the widening gap. Given the considerable surface area involved, it's not surprising that it took over an hour and a half to get it free, but it was worth it. The gooseneck fitting eventually just popped off. I haven't tried it on LPU finish coats, but if I had to, I'd mask as carefully as possible to prevent drips or runs.
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Old 22-12-2009, 22:38   #36
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Where did you get the stuff in San Diego?

Or did you have to order it?

As I have 7 saloon portlights to remove it is an interesting opportunity to try them side by side?

Thanks
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Old 23-12-2009, 07:58   #37
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It's only sold by mail. I've had problems with their website in the past and found it easiest to just call the toll free number. I usually had it within a few days.

Rich
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Old 23-12-2009, 09:49   #38
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San Diego Marine Exchange on Shelter Island Drive. It's on the shelf and in stock ($25.57 List price for the spray can).

Here's where to find it locally for those not fortunate enough to live in San Diego: http://www.marineformula.com/retailers.htm
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Old 23-12-2009, 10:55   #39
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So where can I get it in AUS
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Old 23-12-2009, 11:17   #40
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drinky: contact is rob@marineformula.com
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Old 07-01-2010, 20:36   #41
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So what can I do now?

OK I did use silicone to replace the lexan on some hatches and yes they became loose and leaked. So what are my options? the hatches are Goiot and the glue they used was transparent just like a silicone but very adhesive.
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Old 07-01-2010, 22:49   #42
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Remove the leaking windows, sand the cabinside and the section of plastic port that is to be adhered. Clean the dust with paper towels and denatured alcohol. Clean once more. Apply black 3M 5200 or 4200, or use white. Reattach the plastic using the original type of fastener. Clean up immediatly or work harder later.
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Old 08-01-2010, 06:53   #43
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These don't have any sort of attachment just the glue...
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Old 08-01-2010, 11:45   #44
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Cool

In the interest of DRY BERTHS and other good things...

I'd first peel/scrape off the silicone sealant. Often it just peels from lexan and plexi. Then, because the silicone often leaves residual oils, use an appropriate solvent cleaner, i.e. 3m "Prepsolve" used to remove silicons and waxes before paint jobs. The solvent needs to be something that won't attack the plastic but will attack residuals.

After the solvent, follow the instructions for the adhesive. Sanding alone sometimes just embeds residual solvent--so you prep clean before any sanding. Then prep clean again to get rid of any sanding dust. The adhesive may require that a special primer be used, and they're usually not cheap but if you skip them, the adhesive may not work properly.

Once you find out what the proper adhesives are, whether it is what GE (makers of Lexan) suggest, or what Goiot suggest, whoever, the rest will be detailed in the instructions for that product. Anything from the top names should do the job and do it well, if they are followed, and if the hatches were originally built properly.

As to why they leaked in the first place...We'll blame that on the usual suspects. You didn't hold a proper wedding, didn't place a gold coin under the mast step, didn't make adequate libations, so Poseidon is reminding you.

:-)
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Old 08-01-2010, 12:55   #45
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These don't have any sort of attachment just the glue...
Do you have any Pic's?

Extemp.
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