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Old 08-02-2008, 17:23   #16

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Chad, it might be safe but as others have said, you really need professional input on that. The problem is that "this looks solid" isn't a reliable way to figure whether the consstruction is going to hold up against the worst possible open water event--a capsize or pitchpole that may, effectively, impact your boat against "solid" water at fairly high speed. That can be an impact similar to smacking into a concrete wall at 40+mph, to give you a fast ballpark concept.

In the Fastnet race, the doghouses were literally torn off or smashed in on some wood boats, which is why the entire construction of a modified cabin area has to be questioned.

I would suspect that with professional evalution of what you have, if the woodwork is strong enough, you might be able to add 3/4" Lexan storm windows over the entire hatch area, and make it reasonably strong for bluewater use.

The ideal goal is to make the entire deck as strong as the hull itself, but even if that's not possible, you should be able to make all that open glass area much more resistant to something like green water (or rigging) dropping on them. That's a much more likely impact, and more reasonably defended.

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Old 09-02-2008, 22:12   #17
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Wow! beautiful boat.
My opinion. Firstly, I think she could be made to handle it. And I think she would be simply fantastic to take. thinking of maybe getting something that could definitly handle conditions is almost Adultery :-)
Anyway's, I think this should be looked at from two different approaches. But it will mean a little timber work and it will mean trying to track down some teak. My approach would be to double the frame work thickness by laminating another piece of teak to each timber in the frame. The timbers that look as if they are but joined to right angle timbers, ensure they are checked in so as they can not break away. I am certain that will give you enough frame strength with out to much work and too many hassles. The glass does need to be strong. I had a quick read over previouse posts and didn't see a thickness mentioned, so sorry if it has been. Glass is a good choice, providing it is "toughend glass". 12mm(1/2") thick would be a good choice. This has the same strength as 120mm (5") thick ordinary window glass. Going to 15mm(5/8"??) would be even better. This should give you all the strength you will need. My main concern is the entire structure ripping free, not just the glass breaking in. A roll over will exert a lot of pressure yes, but it is the weight of a wave crashing onto the deck that is the bigger concern. This pressure is not just straight down force. It can ripp structures from the deck. A cubic metre of water is a tonne. Now add momentum. Force is Mass x Acceleration. Throw that cubic metre of water at the boat at say 10kts and it suddenly is a scary force to be reckoned with.
Plus a Rollover is rare, unless you are in the Southern Ocean. Taking big waves over top is going to happen far more frequently and especially if you are in anything big enough to roll you.
I do honestly think this can be down with not too much trouble and I do think this boat should be taken.


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