My brother and his wife have extensive experience with this
route. He has provided the following. Hope it is of value.
We are very familiar with that route having done it several times and we spent over 10 weeks in the Chesapeake. The Pamlico was our home base as we were berthed in Oriental. We have made the journey described below many times.
Regretfully, I do not have my
charts with me anymore but will try my best to provide some insight.
First off the captain will need 2 sets of charts. They are available in book form. One book will cover the Chesapeake down to Norfolk and the other the ICW from Norfolk south. I strongly recommend charts and guides from
Blue Water Books. They are not
cheap but are an essential tool for this journey. Also there are great
guidebooks covering these areas. Do not leave home without them! The ICW is a tricky route as it is shallowing in many places due to lack of funds for the Army
Core of Engineers . The newest versions of the charts will provide information on buoy movement, and depths. The guide
books will help identify good gunk holes for
anchoring overnight and the best
marinas to stop at for overnight stay, fuel and
provisioning. Please remember that a chart plotter is great but it must be up to date and never replaces a set of sharp eyes and good binoculars.
If the boat has been sitting idle for a season or more it is highly recommended that the fuel be drained and the tank cleaned. Moisture in the tank will build
mold and fungus that will clog the fuel filters and stall the engine. Have fuel filters in your spare cabinet in any case. Also have the engine
oil replaced and get the bottom cleaned and new
anti-fouling paint applied. A clean bottom will increase your motoring and sailing speed up to 1
knot which is a lot for a journey like this. If you plan to
anchor out along the way, check all your ground tackle carefully. A
Delta style anchor is the best for the soft mud conditions you will experience on the ICW
anchorages. These actions may seem expensive and take a while to accomplish but there is nothing worse than an engine failure or an anchor slipping as they always occur at the worse possible moment. Spare parts for
head maintenance and a spare potable
water pump are good ideas to have onboard. Remember, any ship system that has not been used in a while is subject to almost immediate failure. In my experience, boats hate to be idle and not being used, in most cases, is worse than heavy usage. Also ensure that your holding
tanks are emptied and cleaned. This also applies to your water
tanks.
Do not leave the
dock without a
contract with one of the towing services. (Tow Boat or Sea Tow). If you have a breakdown or run aground, you will pay thousands out of pocket to be "rescued" without one of these services. We had Tow Boat at the Gold level and were very pleased. It is very
cheap insurance.
The best sailing (winds and weather in agreement) is in the Chesapeake. These waters are wide open and the only challenge is the large cargo ships that ply those waters. There are also numerous anchorages and
marinas along the way. I would recommend at least a week practicing in those waters before attempting the journey to Norfolk. This will allow the crew to establish routines, shake down the boat and identify any shortcomings. Annapolis is a major sailing location where spare parts,
repair facilities and marinas abound. Take advantage of this opportunity to check out all the systems. The boat
survey is useful and the sea trial is helpful but they are too short and too limited to really get an understanding of what the boast is really about. Anchor out a few times and ensure the
refrigeration is working and the ground tackle is appropriate etc.
You will reach Norfolk at the south end of the Chesapeake which is a real experience. The US Atlantic Fleet is based there and military ships are everywhere from nuclear submarines to aircraft carriers. Don't get too close to them as armed guards stand on the bows to prevent sabotage. Norfolk is the start of the southern section of the ICW. The ICW is the only way to go from here that makes any sense unless the captain is an experienced open water sailor because it will take days to get to another navigable inlet if he goes outside. Overnight passages are not something to take lightly.
Heading south from Norfolk there are 2 routes available. You can take the ICW (my recommendation) or you can take the Dismal Swamp route. The Dismal Swamp route is more sheltered but the water is thin and the channel is narrow. There are also 2 locks that need to be navigated. The ICW route is open to the weather especially through the Currituck Sound but the channel is wider and better maintained. Watch out as you pass through the Albermarle Sound as crab pots are everywhere. Also, check the status of the Hwy 64 bridge over the Alligator River as it is under
maintenance this year and may have restricted opening times.
Once you enter the Pamlico Sound sailing is again possible depending on winds and weather. At the bottom of the Pamlico Sound you will re-enter the ICW. This section is well maintained all the way to
Morehead City as there is regular barge traffic. (watch out for barges...they have the right of way and look huge when you approach them in the channels!). The Pamlico Sound is a fairly shallow body of water. It can get really choppy if the winds are up. There are also many great anchorages.
From
Morehead City you can run the ICW south. However, this section down to Southport is not well maintained. We much preferred to wait for a weather window and sail outside to Wrightsville Beach NC. The channel going out at Beaufort and in at the Mason Inlet near the town of Wrightsville Beach are
commercial routes and are well marked. All you need is one day of suitable winds (or no wind at all and simply
motor all the way). You only need to be 1-2 miles offshore all the way so you are never out of sight of land. If you want a real thrill and have the time, after leaving Beaufort, sail north to Cape Lookout and anchor in the bight. It is a remarkable place to spend a couple of days especially if you get a chance to go ashore and explore the sand islands. From Wrightsville Beach take the ICW south through Snows Cut (watch out the markers reverse part way through) to Southport. There is a great marina at Southport.
Once again, I would suggest waiting for another weather window at Southport and exit back outside at the Cape Fear River and go outside south to
Georgetown. Once again, the ICW is a mess along this route and is very challenging and the SC tides make traveling the next section extra nerve wracking. There is a great marina in
Georgetown to spend the night.
From Georgetown, running the ICW the rest of the way to Beaufort SC is pretty good. There are anchorages and marinas along the way.
While on the ICW never put up any sails and watch the markers carefully. Run in the middle of the channel whenever possible. Remember, the markers identify hazards. Stay away from them. People often feel it is safe to be near them as it gives them a false sense of
security because they know where they are. However, because the ICW has silted so badly and is so badly maintained in many areas, getting near a marker is dangerous. The good news is that the vast majority of the bottom is mud and if you do go aground it is unlikely that you will hole the boat. Only the apply named "rock pile"
passage presents a real issue for bottom damage.
While running the Chesapeake, Pamlico Sound or outside feel free to raise sails.
Motor sailing (sail(s) up and engine running) is also a good way to keep your speed up and reduce your fuel usage. Never put up a sail while traveling the ICW channels as it blocks your visibility of markers and approaching boats. A sudden gust or a moment of inattention will almost certainly result in a grounding.
If you cannot make some of the passages mentioned, one good thing is that the draft of this particular boat is good. Anything over 5' is problematic with the
current poor condition of the ICW. Plan your departures and arrivals carefully as tides are significant in many places making your passages really slow if you are against them and the water gets really thin at low tide. High tide can also present a challenge if your
mast is close to 60' as the bridges have only 65' clearance at mean high tides. Some sections of the ICW in SC have tides approaching 9'.
Studying up on the rules of the road, the protocol to have the bridges open etc. is essential. Many of the bridges maintain a strict opening time and this must be taken into account in your planning. Plan each days route carefully. Make yourself aware of the hazards and bridges along each section. Take your time and do not have a timetable. You must allow a lot of time for a trip like this as weather and mechanical issues plus wear and tear on the crew take there toll. A strict schedule is a guarantee that you will get yourself in trouble.
If you follow the plan laid out above, none of the sailing will require an overnight
passage. Travelling on the ICW at night is suicide. Plan to leave at first light and finish your trip by 3:00PM. This way, you will be able to find anchorages that are still open. It takes time to prepare
meals after you reach port or anchorages and you must also plan your next stage of the journey. Have a lunch packed before you depart each port/anchorage to eat along the way. All of this is time consuming and cannot be short circuited without consequences. Call ahead to marinas and book a slip. Do not be afraid to cancel if the situation looks bad and find an anchorage. Do not push your trip. Take each stage in a conservative manner and you will have great memories of the adventure. Push it and you will have nothing but nightmares about "what ifs". The number one
rule in a cruising sailors life is as captain "NEVER TAKE A TRIP THAT WILL SCARE THE WIFE". If you are a small crew, as is typical, it only takes pushing a bad situation to result in a grounding, a rough passage or exhausting the crew to result in the wife/partner saying " I am out of here".
After you are on the boat for a few days you will get a pretty good idea of what average speed you can attain under sail, under
power and motor sailing. When planning your passages either outside or on the ICW use the average of these speed to plan your legs. Expect to do a lot of motoring. We did a lot more than we ever expected. A great sail outside is a wonderful experience but getting the correct conditions to do the leg in a reasonable time are rare.
Provisioning the boat is important. Do not load up on can goods. If you select your marina stops at significant cities you can take a taxi to a grocery store and resupply. Enjoy the cities you stop at. Many of the cities like Southport are rich in
history and are fun to walk around. A meal at a restaurant is a great crew pick me up.
Anchoring out in a secure location is what cruising is all about. The stars are so bright and the sound of nature is everywhere. Ensure your boat has screens for all open hatches or you will become a meal for every biting insect for miles around whether anchoring out or in a marina.
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