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15-12-2010, 07:38
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#16
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Tampa Bay area, USA
Boat: Beneteau First 42
Posts: 3,961
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If I had that thing on my work bench, I'd use a drummel too to cut away the remains of the drums to expose the bolt shafts, grab them between the side plates with a small pipe wrench and loosen them with that, The shaft bolts can be replaced easily enough so long as the threads on the side plates are not unduly buggered up. To avoid that, one can cut away the portion of the shaft bolts that the pipe-wrench jaws cut into with a drummel tool although I suspect that only the outboard side plate is actually threaded. Before replacing the rollers with nylon, I'd look into obtaining hard rubber rollers that might take the point loading from the shank of your anchor a bit better.
FWIW...
__________________
"It is not so much for its beauty that the Sea makes a claim upon men's hearts, as for that subtle something, that quality of air, that emanation from the waves, that so wonderfully renews a weary spirit."
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15-12-2010, 14:19
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#17
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Australia, Hervey Bay QLD
Boat: Boden 36 Triple chine long keel steel, named Nekeyah
Posts: 909
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The best material for your rollers is some form of metal. I have found aluminium good,as it is easy to turn, light and has a little softness.
The larger the diameter the better, bearing in mind that the chain has to be contained by the cheeks of the fitting.
Regards, Richard.
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15-12-2010, 14:47
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#18
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Lived aboard & cruised for 45 years,- now on a chair in my walk-in closet.
Boat: Morgan OI 413 1973 - Aythya
Posts: 8,464
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As far as the choices in selecting replacement rollers, don't overlook what's available in the supply of rollers for small boat trailers. They are readily available in various sizes, inexpensive, and surprisingly long lasting. I've been using one with all chain rode for ten years after tossing my noisey aluminum roller. It shows little wear and I anchor frequently; however, I anchor with snubbers (shock lines) and the roller only takes the weight of the chain and anchor when deploying or weighing.
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Take care and joy, Aythya crew
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15-12-2010, 16:33
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#19
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 239
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I would drill it out use a bolt and nut. Next time it would take 2 wrenches and 10 min to do the job
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15-12-2010, 17:55
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#20
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,844
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s/vfootloose
I would drill it out use a bolt and nut. Next time it would take 2 wrenches and 10 min to do the job
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Cant do that as they need to be flush fitting as the part I removed pivots of the centre bolt and moves inside the main posing still fitted on the boat (see 2nd photo in my OP)
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16-12-2010, 07:47
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#21
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Tampa Bay area, USA
Boat: Beneteau First 42
Posts: 3,961
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Hoppy--
Your bow roller is similar to the Vetus:
In this assembly, and likely yor own, only the off-side plate (the plate without the counter-sunk head) is threaded. The roller/shaft bolt is typically set with Green Locktite or a similar thread locking compound, which may also have been applied to the counter sink bore at the head. (And, which will make the application of PB Blaster and related penetrants worthless.) You can soften Locktite with the judicious application of heat to the side plates at the bolt. If you cut off the remains of the old roller with a drummel tool, you'll be able to get a purchase on the shaft bolt between the plates and loosen the bolt.
__________________
"It is not so much for its beauty that the Sea makes a claim upon men's hearts, as for that subtle something, that quality of air, that emanation from the waves, that so wonderfully renews a weary spirit."
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16-12-2010, 08:01
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#22
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Punta Gorda, Fl
Boat: Endeavourcat Sailcat 44
Posts: 3,176
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Boatman61 has the answer. Heat and lots of it. The mass of the metal will probably require more heat than a propane torch, you probably want to use MAPP at least. My outboard motor instructor swore that acetylene torches were the only sure way of getting bolts loose. He did not use the torch in cutting mode, but it puts out enough heat that it works. I've seen him break some very corroded bolts loose in only a few seconds. MAPP takes a bit longer but still works. A large chunk of metal seems to drain heat away faster than a propane torch can deliver it. Also, the faster the heat is delivered, the less chance the heat will damage surrounding materials before the bolt comes loose.
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16-12-2010, 08:43
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#23
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Lost in Lupron'
Boat: Pearson 422 "Island Dream"
Posts: 61
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After the second day of fighting, I would get the hack saw out and cut the bolts out. Leave enough on each side so you can heat the stuck parts and turn them out with vice grips. Get new bolts with hex heads or allen heads and simply replace them. You can cut off any extra length of the new bolts. I would use self locking nuts to finish up the deal. The next time you need to change the roller it will be a 10 minute job. IMHO Good luck...
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16-12-2010, 08:55
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#24
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,844
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Ohhh wow, I did not expect it to be this difficult
Given that the boat & roller are so far from home and I don't have a the blow/acetylene torches I think I might have to "outsource" the fix when I am there next.
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21-12-2010, 14:36
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#25
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,844
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I think I might try to get an impact driver. Maybe the combination of that and a spray or some coke might get it loosened. If not then I will try heat
Does anyone know of any good sites where I can order the roller wheels? There seems to be so many sizes and variations and so far everywhere I have looked only has a limited selection and never the size I need.
If I get desperate or tired of looking, then I will try Jeanneau.
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