Windlass wiring (old Ideal)

[Russian007]

My old ideal works! But I don't know how to wire it. There's a foot switch with two 12v wire terminals; a Hub with FOUR terminals, and a illuminated switch near the batters, it looks like a regulate light switch but has a red light. Then there are a couple of heavy duty wires that run from the battery bank. Any diagrams for this configuration? I don't need up and down. just UP. I googled it but the diagrams looked more complex. This is an old boat.

[Dsanduril]

They're all pretty much the same - there are two circuits; the power circuit for the windlass motor and the control circuit for the switch. I'm guessing that the 'hub' is where these two come together and is likely the solenoid for the windlass.

The control circuit - From the red, lighted switch the +12V goes to one side of the foot switch. From the other side of the foot switch it goes to the coil of the solenoid that is most likely in the 'hub'. There should also be a negative control connection on the hub for the solenoid. That just goes back to the negative/common connection in the electrical panel.

The power circuit - There should be a large, fused cable from the +12V on the battery to the solenoid then another large cable from the solenoid to the positive connection on the windlass motor. The second connection on the motor should be a large cable going back to negative at the battery.

That's what I would expect if there are four connections on the 'hub'; two small connections for the control circuit (one +12V from the foot switch, one negative to complete the control circuit) and two large connections (to control the switching of the large positive wire to the windlass motor).

[Wotname]

I'm not so sure that they are pretty much the same!

First of all, some pictures would help greatly.
The size of the terminals gives you some hints - big terminals = big wires = big current.

Does the foot switch have big terminals?
Does the switch (with the red light) have big terminals; if so, it may be a circuit breaker switch?

What size boat (or chain)? Again this gives to some hints on whether you have a separate control and power circuit.

FWIW, my new Muir windlass wiring goes from battery bus (+ve), to circuit breaker switch (with red indicator light), to foot switch, to windlass (+ve) and then the return is windlass (-ve) to -ve battery bus. All heavy wiring.

The red light indicates the windlass circuit breaker switch is turned on (and hasn't tripped) and has its own small circuit breaker protection.

[Wotname]

@OP, when you say "hub", is this a separate unit the the windlass motor or do you mean the actual motor.

If it is a separate item to the windlass, has it got two big terminals and two small terminals? If so, its probably a relay and thus you will have separate control and power circuits.

If it is the motor, I would expect all the terminals will be big????

[Russian007]

Thanks, just to clarify about the FOOT switch, a 12v positive connection from RED LIGHT switch to foot pedal, and the second 12v positive from FOOT switch to hub/solenoid. Or is the *second* wire from the FOOT switch 12v negative?

[Dsanduril]

If the hub is a solenoid/relay (I don't think that's a big if from your description, but as Wotname suggests, there are some direct control windlasses out there - in which case the connections on the foot switch would be quite large) then it goes:

+12V -> Lighted switch -> Foot Switch -> hub/solenoid.

From the hub/solenoid there should then be a second connection for the control circuit that goes to negative.

A picture of the hub could help? Or, does the hub have two large and two smaller connections?

[Russian007]

Here are some photos 30' Angelman Ketch built in 1965
https://ibb.co/ef5Bxy
https://ibb.co/ga3LqJ
https://ibb.co/ihqpjd

[Russian007]

Originally Posted by Wotname

@OP, when you say "hub", is this a separate unit the the windlass motor or do you mean the actual motor.

If it is a separate item to the windlass, has it got two big terminals and two small terminals? If so, its probably a relay and thus you will have separate control and power circuits.

If it is the motor, I would expect all the terminals will be big????

The hub is separate from the windlass motor and presumably it's the solenoid?

[Russian007]

Originally Posted by Dsanduril

If the hub is a solenoid/relay (I don't think that's a big if from your description, but as Wotname suggests, there are some direct control windlasses out there - in which case the connections on the foot switch would be quite large) then it goes:

+12V -> Lighted switch -> Foot Switch -> hub/solenoid.

From the hub/solenoid there should then be a second connection for the control circuit that goes to negative.

A picture of the hub could help? Or, does the hub have two large and two smaller connections?

The foot switch terminals/wires aren't heavy duty.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Russian007

The hub is separate from the windlass motor and presumably it's the solenoid?

Yes, this correct.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Russian007

The foot switch terminals/wires aren't heavy duty.

OK, you have two circuits, a control (foot switch) and a power. Dsanduril has it right .

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Russian007

Here are some photos 30' Angelman Ketch built in 1965
https://ibb.co/ef5Bxy
https://ibb.co/ga3LqJ
https://ibb.co/ihqpjd

Crikey, you do have some corrosion and even the big wires look too small to my eye.

[Russian007]

Originally Posted by Wotname

Crikey, you do have some corrosion and even the big wires look too small to my eye.

Should I cut the wire tips off and crimp on a new terminal? I have slack in the wiring.

[Russian007]

Originally Posted by Dsanduril

+12V -> Lighted switch -> Foot Switch -> hub/solenoid.

From the hub/solenoid there should then be a second connection for the control circuit that goes to negative.

The solenoid/hub should have two negative termals? or just one?

[Dsanduril]

The solenoid itself has four connections:

1. Big +12V in from battery
2. Big +12V out to windlass motor
3. Small +12V from foot switch
4. Small -12V/negative to power panel negative connections (may go to battery, who knows on an old boat).

The windlass motor will then have two connections:

1. Big +12V from solenoid
2. Big -12V/negative direct to battery (or maybe a large negative bus near the battery).

Given the corrosion on that solenoid you might want to replace it, give you more reliability. You can get marine/sealed units designed for damp locations or just replace what you have (which looks like a pretty standard automotive solenoid that can probably be had for very few $).

If it were me, I'd probably re-terminate all the wires. Cut off the ends, check for corrosion under the insulation (you can do that when you strip for the new connector) and then re-terminate.