Cruisers Forum
 


Join CruisersForum Today

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 17-05-2007, 09:53   #1
Registered User

Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 51
Windlass motor connections

A simple question for those in the know. On the motor for a Nillson Maxwell windlass which post is the positive and which is ground? I seem to remember the side post or "field" is positive. Old age is creeping in and the motor has been being rebuilt for the better part of a month, all thats left on re installation is power and the list is shortened yet again. many thanks.
__________________

__________________
stuffinbox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17-05-2007, 11:28   #2
Registered User
 
Terra Nova's Avatar

Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Marina del Rey, California
Boat: Freya 39 cutter- Terra Nova
Posts: 3,645
Quote:
Originally Posted by stuffinbox
A simple question for those in the know. On the motor for a Nillson Maxwell windlass which post is the positive and which is ground? I seem to remember the side post or "field" is positive. Old age is creeping in and the motor has been being rebuilt for the better part of a month, all thats left on re installation is power and the list is shortened yet again. many thanks.
Yo Stuff,

since it is not marked, it could be reversable. Try it.

best, andy
__________________

__________________
1st rule of yachting: When a collision is unavoidable, aim for something cheap.
"whatever spare parts you bring, you'll never need"--goboatingnow
"Id rather drown than have computers take over my life."--d design
Terra Nova is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17-05-2007, 13:54   #3
Senior Cruiser
 
Alan Wheeler's Avatar

Cruisers Forum Supporter

Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Marlborough Sounds. New Zealand
Boat: Hartley Tahitian 45ft. Leisure Lady
Posts: 8,038
Images: 102
Which model winch do you have. Is it reversing?? Reversing units have three posts. "A" is the Negative and "F1" & "F2" are the positive connections. If used as an up only, then which ever of those two makes the winch wind in the correct direction, but it shoudl normally be "F1".
If nit is a single feild winch motor, ie, it has only the two posts, then connect in direction that makes the winch turn in the direction you want.
__________________
Wheels

For God so loved the world..........He didn't send a committee.
Alan Wheeler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17-09-2007, 16:42   #4
Registered User

Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Queensland, Australia
Boat: Piver Loadstar 12.5 metres
Posts: 371
Windlass

I would use relays to operate the windlass once you have figured out which direction to wire the motor--rigged so that when anchor is down there is no electrical connection to the windlass motor from the battery system either positive or negative. If one does not do this it is possible to lose the galvanising from the anchor chain fairly quickly--or corrode some other part of the hull, since you have made the anchor an extra earth path for any electrolysis or stray currents leaving the vessel.
__________________
Mike Banks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17-09-2007, 18:48   #5
Moderator Emeritus
 
Pblais's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hayes, VA
Boat: Gozzard 36
Posts: 8,700
Images: 15
Send a message via Skype™ to Pblais
Mike, There is a better reason.

They don't make switches that you can mount on the deck that can handle that many amps. Using the relay is the only way to do this as the relay can use low amperage to open and close the switch. The other mistake you can make is to not replace the factory pigtails on the motor with proper sized wire. It needs to be as thick as the wires coming forward else you'll burn out the motor. You don't just splice onto the pigtails. There are tables that tell you how thick based on how far.
__________________
Paul Blais
s/v Bright Eyes Gozzard 36
37 15.7 N 76 28.9 W
Pblais is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18-09-2007, 04:21   #6
Moderator Emeritus
 
GordMay's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario - 48-29N x 89-20W
Boat: (Cruiser Living On Dirt)
Posts: 31,573
Images: 240
Some typical Windlass Wiring Diagrams (Lofrans), illustrating Wheels description:

2 & 4 Wire:
http://www.seatechmarineproducts.com...re_diagram.jpg

3-Wire:
http://www.seatechmarineproducts.com...ng_Diagram.jpg
__________________
Gord May
"If you didn't have the time or money to do it right in the first place, when will you get the time/$ to fix it?"



GordMay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18-09-2007, 08:21   #7
Senior Cruiser

Cruisers Forum Supporter

Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Nevada City. CA
Boat: Sceptre 41
Posts: 3,745
Images: 9
I have the instruction manual from Nilsson Maxwell and will try to post it tonight.
__________________
Fair Winds,

Charlie

Between us there was, as I have already said somewhere, the bond of the sea. Besides holding our hearts together through long periods of separation, it had the effect of making us tolerant of each other's yarns -- and even convictions. Heart of Darkness
Joseph Conrad
Charlie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18-11-2007, 06:47   #8
Registered User
 
phiggins's Avatar

Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 1,288
Send a message via Skype™ to phiggins
Pigtails

Paul Blais wrote:
The other mistake you can make is to not replace the factory pigtails on the motor with proper sized wire. It needs to be as thick as the wires coming forward else you'll burn out the motor.

Paul I find that statement hard to believe. I'm currently installing a windlass and no where in the instructions does it say to do this. It would seem to me that one should be concerned about the total resistance in the path to the motor. The length of the pigtails are so short that it would cause an insignificant voltage drop.

Paul
__________________
phiggins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18-11-2007, 08:07   #9
Senior Cruiser
 
Lancerbye's Avatar

Cruisers Forum Supporter

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Ladysmith,BC, Vancouver Island , Canada
Boat: Lancer 44 Motorsailer
Posts: 1,757
Images: 32
If I was at my boat I'd be able to look it up in the manual. Is it a vertical with fold out cranks for manual operation and a combination chain and rope winch?
__________________
The basis of accomplishment is in never quitting
Mengzi Meng-tse
Lancerbye is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18-11-2007, 10:47   #10
Moderator Emeritus
 
Pblais's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hayes, VA
Boat: Gozzard 36
Posts: 8,700
Images: 15
Send a message via Skype™ to Pblais
Quote:
Paul I find that statement hard to believe. I'm currently installing a windlass and no where in the instructions does it say to do this.
Neither did the previous owner. When they over fused the circuit the pig tails burned out before the main line could start on fire because they were sized correctly and the pigtails were not. That was a case where the mistake prevented the larger fire but it might not have worked they way in another situation. You can then run a single line from the selonoid to the windlass and not require any splice at all. I don't see the case where the pigtails are long enough very often. No splice is also a good thing too.
__________________
Paul Blais
s/v Bright Eyes Gozzard 36
37 15.7 N 76 28.9 W
Pblais is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18-11-2007, 14:29   #11
Registered User

Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Queensland, Australia
Boat: Piver Loadstar 12.5 metres
Posts: 371
The short pigtails serve as fusible links unless you remove them. Generally they are rated to carry the current recommended for the motor--but the main leads aft should be as heavy as you can get them and run in separate conduits. If you leave pigtails on and they do fuse--molten copper can start fires, even though it may prevent motor burn-out.

Make sure you use heavy relays so that the winch at idle is not part of the earthed system, or when the anchor is down the zinc will become a sacrificial anode and your galvanizing will not last very long.
__________________
Mike Banks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18-11-2007, 14:50   #12
Moderator Emeritus
 
Pblais's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hayes, VA
Boat: Gozzard 36
Posts: 8,700
Images: 15
Send a message via Skype™ to Pblais
Quote:
[FONT='Calibri','sans-serif']If you leave pigtails on and they do fuse--molten copper can start fires, even though it may prevent motor burn-out.[/FONT]
I can say from first hand experience they don't. The motor was as burned as the wires. It was an unusual situation primarily due to a fuse that was too high. I would agree with everything else Mike. There are a lot of details you just don't get in an installation manual. It's one of the reasons I still learn things here too.
__________________

__________________
Paul Blais
s/v Bright Eyes Gozzard 36
37 15.7 N 76 28.9 W
Pblais is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Manual, vertical-axis anchor windlass Andy Construction, Maintenance & Refit 16 10-07-2016 06:09
Windlass Opinion cburger Deck hardware: Rigging, Sails & Hoisting 15 27-01-2007 12:45
Windlass conversion maual to electric AnchorageGuy Construction, Maintenance & Refit 6 16-01-2007 09:54



Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 01:42.


Google+
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Social Knowledge Networks
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.

ShowCase vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.