Windlass Corrosion

[PhilDuhs]

I took a look in my anchor locker (which is accessed from inside the front cabin rather than on deck so I don't do it that often) and saw what appears to be quite a bit of corrosion on the underside of my windlass - see the attached photos.

I'm not having any problems with the windlass but I'd like to clean this up and am looking for suggestions for the best way to:

1. Remove the corrosion that's there
2. Prevent it from happening again (some sort of sealant?)

Any suggestions much appreciated.
Phil
S/Y 37 Rocks

[Sailmonkey]

We've got the same windlass drive as you do. It's part of my maintenance regime now to drop it off of the spindle, clean off the top bearing, lube the shaft, and coat the whole thing with either corrosion x or boeshield (depends on what's handy at the moment).
Before I started this annual feat of contortionistic prowess I let it for three years without being fooled with.....it took four hours , a three jaw puller, and some special language to get it off.


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[Hudson Force]

I would consider two actions. To deal with the present corrosion I would use a light weight sprayed oil and brushing. I keep old toothbrushes as they seem to allow access to tight areas. To lesson future corrosion occasional repeats of oil and brushing, but in addition, I would consider mounting a simple shield between the fall of the chain and the windlass. I would want to avoid blocking the air circulation around the windlass, but block any splash of salt water from the fast falling chain. Maybe a cut-away side of a plastic milk jug.

[PhilDuhs]

Thanks for the tips!

I'll give it a clean with WD-40 + a toothbrush when I'm back at the boat next weekend and then order some Corrosion X to coat it with properly prior to the summer.

Sailmonkey, is the process you describe of dropping it off the spindle documented anywhere (eg. owners manual) or if not, would you be able do describe the high-level steps required and any "gotcha's" I should be weary of!

Phil

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by PhilDuhs

Thanks for the tips!



I'll give it a clean with WD-40 + a toothbrush when I'm back at the boat next weekend and then order some Corrosion X to coat it with properly prior to the summer.



Sailmonkey, is the process you describe of dropping it off the spindle documented anywhere (eg. owners manual) or if not, would you be able do describe the high-level steps required and any "gotcha's" I should be weary of!



Phil

I'm sure it's documented as part of the install manual, the biggest gotcha is that it's heavy!!

Usually all you'll need to do is loosen the huge nut that holds the gear box onto the shaft (above the gearbox) and lower the gearbox. There is usually a key retaining spring in the groove at the bottom of the shaft that needs to be pulled also (I don't see it in your picture, yours may be missing).
It's a pain, but only being done once a year, and the fried that it prevents I worth it IMHO.


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[JPA Cate]

Phil, if you can learn what brand it is, then you can probably find an exploded view of it on the internet somewhere. Good luck with the project. I like Hudson's idea of making the milk bottle plastic shield, too.

[chris95040]

more like windMORE corrosion ammmiright???

is this thing on?

[exMaggieDrum]

I don't know that windlass and I can't tell what material the housings that are corroded are made of, but it looks like aluminum from the pics. You can use the metal toothbrushes (stainless not mild steel) and clean off the bulk of the corrosion. That would be far more complete if you did it down in front of you. It will be a hellish job doing that laying under it and looking up while the powder coats your face. But either way, get it as clean as possible.

It looks like it was powder-coated and if so you need to get all the loose paint off until it is completely solid with no corrosion underneath. If it's aluminum you might consider cleaning it, etching it and then paint with aluminum primer and then top coat with a good paint for a corrosive atmosphere.

If you do that I don't think you will want to use any time of oil for the cleaning. I don't know how well Boeshield and Corrosion-X work on top of oils but I suspect they recommend to put it over clean surfaces. I would be good to coat it with one of those or another similar after you finish the job as a couple recommend above.

But hey, I'm not an expert on this. Just the way I would approach it if it were mine. I always make little projects in to big projects so I don't have to come back to them anytime soon. It may be overkill though.

[a64pilot]

I'd Alodine after cleaning and as Maggiedrum says coat it with a proper aluminum paint, I love corrosion-X, but think a product called Par-al-ketone is a better choice. It is very similar to Cosmoline for those familiar with it, and or very close to that type of waxy grease that regular steel cable like what Bulldozers use comes coated with.
Also LPS is a spray on waxy type of corrosion preventative, Corrosion-X looks like thin green oil and washes off more easily.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...aralketone.php
I've actually seen crankshafts and cylinders coated with Par al ketone sit outside in the weather for extended times and not have any rust at all.


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[UNCIVILIZED]

To keep the water off of the windlass, a lot of folks will take a section of moderate to large diameter PVC pipe, & affix it to the underside of the overhead, surrounding the hole for the hawsepipe. While others will use a section of engine exhaust hose or similar.

Also, with some windlasses, you can mount the drive unit (& capstan above it, on deck), just aft of your chain locker, & have a hawsepipe which is completely seperate from the windlass itself. But setup so that things still feed properly, via gravity, all on their own.

The benefit of this being, that the windlass is never exposed to any of the wet, & or humidity of the chain locker. And honestly, I can't figure why more boaters don't demand such types of windlasses, other than perhaps, they don't know any better.

[Wotname]

Once the corrosion is removed and components recoated 9paint etc) perhaps Denso Tape would be the best preventative!

This called up for Muir anchor winches and from what I have seen in off-shore oil & gas industry, nothing much gets past Denso - but I currently have no personal experience with it except to say I am buying some this week for a new windlass installation!

Has anyone here used it for windlass protection?

BTW, it is messy to use but maybe that proves it's usefulness

[Sailmonkey]

The problem with all of the solutions that say cove it, paint it, deflect it, etc.....fail to take into account that the shaft is the major source of the mud, sand, saltwater that is going to cause the problems on the top of the gearbox.


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[a64pilot]

The PVC pipe is an excellent idea, I assume you just adhere it to the hull with 5200?
You guy's think I'm nuts for wanting to rinse off my anchor chain with fresh water as I bring it aboard, but I think in the long run it will prevent some issues.

[a64pilot]

This?
Denso North America - Petrolatum Tapes

Sounds interesting, I have no experience with it

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

The PVC pipe is an excellent idea, I assume you just adhere it to the hull with 5200?
You guy's think I'm nuts for wanting to rinse off my anchor chain with fresh water as I bring it aboard, but I think in the long run it will prevent some issues.

If I had the capacity and the watermaker for it, I'd love to do it too. Alas, I do not.


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