What is this?

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by SeaHarlequin

OK, thanks. I'll try the screwdriver approach before picking up PB Blaster.



I may be underestimating the strength of fiberglass but it seems like a bad idea to continually drop and drag chain across the hull bottom. If I set things up for anchoring from the bow, are there recommended modifications for doing so or am I being excessively paranoid?

Paranoid.

Our chain has been landing on the hull for the better part of 40 years with no wear.

[SeaHarlequin]

OK, sounds good - thanks!

[LLCoolDave]

You aren't just dropping it. The chain slides in and rests on the hull.

[CassidyNZ]

I have a close replica of that fitting on my deck. My chain locker also has no opening door onto the deck, the bower chain goes down off the windlass, the spare chain goes down through this fitting. The fitting on my boat has a place under the lid to tie to - as has been said, sometimes a small ball chain is attached to prevent loss of the lid. Instead, on mine I have a cord attached to the lid, the other end of which attaches to the end of the spare chain so that I can easily access it from on deck.

[Island Time O25]

Originally Posted by SeaHarlequin

OK, sounds good - thanks!

Before dropping the chain into the chain locker get a rubber or heavy plastic mat with holes or square openings. This will prevent the chain lying in the puddle of water. Another issue is to make sure the drain hole is free of dirt and scum, as they usually are in older boats. Use a straightened coat hanger or similar to get the stubborn dirt out after you pressure wash the hole. Of course find it first unless the l9c ker drains into the bilge which is not a good design idea.

[SeaHarlequin]

Originally Posted by Island Time O25

Before dropping the chain into the chain locker get a rubber or heavy plastic mat with holes or square openings. This will prevent the chain lying in the puddle of water.

Great suggestion, I'll look into that. Thanks!

Originally Posted by Island Time O25

Another issue is to make sure the drain hole is free of dirt and scum... unless the l9c ker drains into the bilge which is not a good design idea.

Where else would it drain? I'm still learning about boats but I thought the bilge was the lowest point on the boat -- the point where all liquids would accumulate and that builders built grooves and slants to help direct liquids there. If there's another area where drainage is going to, I should take a closer look at my boat and find that/those spots so I can be aware of them.

[SV Melody]

I can't speak to the design of every boat out there but I've seen quite a few anchor lockers that have a little drain hole with a cover plate some distance above the waterline. On mine, one side has the anchor locker drain, the other side has a matching appearance fitting that is the fwd holding tank vent. If your locker goes all the way to the bottom of the inside of the hull, there probably will not be a drain of the same configuration. But there should be one somewhere.

[Island Time O25]

Originally Posted by SeaHarlequin

Great suggestion, I'll look into that. Thanks!

Where else would it drain? I'm still learning about boats but I thought the bilge was the lowest point on the boat -- the point where all liquids would accumulate and that builders built grooves and slants to help direct liquids there. If there's another area where drainage is going to, I should take a closer look at my boat and find that/those spots so I can be aware of them.

Perhaps if there is no dedicated locker the drain goes to the bilge or sump pump. But if it drains to the outside there would be a drain hole the size of the pencil width at the bow above the waterline.

You can experiment by pouring fresh water into the locker and seeing where it goes. If it doesn drain look for a clogged drain. I would be surprised if there is no dedicated drain as this would mean that the chain will be prone to rusting faster than it should. Plus an occasional fresh water bath is good for the chain locker and the chain.

[CassidyNZ]

It’s perhaps not uncommon for anchor lockers to drain back to the bilge. Mine does and that’s why I try to keep my chain as clean as possible when weighing anchor to avoid mud and sand ending up in the bilge. I’ve thought about putting a new drain to the outside as has been mentioned by others but the bottom of my anchor locker is below waterline.

[JPA Cate]

You could put a bottom into the locker, and then above-the-waterline drains, port and starboard.

On smaller boats, usually you'll see a combination of rope rode and chain. Just make sure the bitter end is attached to the boat. (You may have to glass in a cleat, or through-bolt a pad eye.) The rope comes into the locker first and the chain sits on it. It is nice if the locker can drain, and not into the bilge. Dry bilges are a thing of great beauty!


Ann

[jkleins]

The cap may have a hinge on the back side that slides sideways to hold it open. This could be stuck as well. Take a rubber hammer and tap it side to side if it is and that may also help free it up as well.