underwater anchor cam with wifi

[NPCampbell]

I think the lowest cost approach is to use an RC electric fishing boat designed for running bait to tow a wired endoscope/borescope camera with monitor. It's a little redneck but for around $100 for the boat and <$100 for the integrated camera and monitor it should work right out of the package.

[Disailor]

"underwater anchor cam with wifi" on youtube

[daviddb]

If minded to go along this visual check path surely one needs to send the camera/drone/merperson down *before * anchoring to check for, er, stuff.
yrs from a breezy and dull Milford Haven ( a locale awash with abandoned submarine cables and assorted crab pot debris.....)

[Montanan]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

Here is an example of an anchor that would have held full reverse, but is actually very unsecure. A change in direction of pull could see the anchor break out with little force.

This type of set is unusual, but I have seen many similar cases. There are often some clues that everything is not as it should be when the setting force is applied, but nevertheless this skipper did not appreciate the poor potential holding power available.

Probably the biggest advantage of diving and observing the anchor is that it will show you how the anchor performs in different substrates and teach you about anchor behaviour. It will make you better at anchoring . However, diving on the anchor is certainly not essential or even always feasible. There is no way I am diving on our anchor in Norway .

Quote: Re: underwater anchor cam with wifi
If minded to go along this visual check path surely one needs to send the camera/drone/merperson down *before * anchoring to check for, er, stuff.
yrs from a breezy and dull Milford Haven ( a locale awash with abandoned submarine cables and assorted crab pot debris.....)


Indeed knowing what you are dropping your anchor on to would be of benefit so as to be able to know if the substrate is inappropriate, such as the pictured coral or entangling debris. Hooking onto old abandoned crabe pots is a nuisance, but hooking onto active crab pots is Dinner time. Sad to see someone being ecologically insensitive as to dropping anchor and chain rode onto coral. I see that they have had to dive down to hook up a retrieval line to attempt to back the stuck anchor out from its wedged position. I can just imagine how entangled the chain rode could have gotten when swinging on that substrate.

During the summer months we return to Montana, the water in our lakes is far too cold in the early part of sailing season, e.g. 45 Degrees F, 7.2 C so diving down is not in the cards.

[tp12]

Personally I keep a ninja capable of breathing underwater and seeing in the dark in the lazarette. Job done

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by Montanan

Sad to see someone being ecologically insensitive as to dropping anchor and chain rode onto coral. I see that they have had to dive down to hook up a retrieval line to attempt to back the stuck anchor out from its wedged position.

The retrieval line is an underwater line that is permanently attached to the anchor.

[Montanan]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

The retrieval line is an underwater line that is permanently attached to the anchor.

I was referring to the retrieval line connected to the heal of the anchor in the image attached to post 36. This rope line has apparently been temporarily attached so as to be able so as to horizontally pull the toe of the anchor back out from its wedge holding in the coral substrate.

Indeed I suppose one could position a trip retrieval line so as to also pull backwards and upwards if the anchor rode forward pulling does not allow for retrieval.

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by Montanan

I was referring to the retrieval line connected to the heal of the anchor in the image attached to post 36. This rope line has apparently been temporarily attached so as to be able so as to horizontally pull the toe of the anchor back out from its wedge holding in the coral substrate.

Indeed I suppose one could position a trip retrieval line so as to also pull backwards and upwards if the anchor rode forward pulling does not allow for retrieval.

It does look like a temporary line, but this was a short, permanent line attached to the anchor.

This type of underwater floating line is popular for those who live at anchor. I think is generally a good idea, especially for those sailors frequenting warm, clear waters.

In this case it has it has been poorly implemented, so I would not copy this example, but a line of 1.5-2m in a strong thin floating material (Dyneema is ideal) with perhaps an additional small float attached is worth considering.

It helps show where the anchor is located if you dive and take a look. This is especially useful in weed, or with a non roll bar anchor (without the roll bar there is nothing to see if the fluke and shank are buried). If you do need to pull the anchor out backwards it is easier to attach a line leading to surface by threading this through the loop formed by the float rather than a small hole in the anchor itself (especially if the hole is under the substrate). Once again, this is especially true for the non roll bar anchors. It also reduces the distance needed to dive down to attach the retrieval line.

Some boats also use the same line to help secure and stabilise the anchor on the bow roller.

The only drawback of the underwater float is that occasionally it can become caught under the fluke. Also, if anchoring in very shallow water it needs to be clipped or tied back so it is not a hazard to other boats.

This is a photo of an example attached to my Mantus anchor:

[Sojourner]

Originally Posted by Montanan

Hmmm, interesting subject and technology evaluation. Okay, I will admit that I am a bit confused and inquisitive as to why one would desire to dive down to view the anchor?

It seems that with each swing of the boat one would also have the same motivation to dive to visually inspect that the anchor has reset itself properly, but that is also easy to prove by just backing hard on the rode yet again to become certain of its reset holding power,; that is something I like to do when the tide or wind shifts before retiring for the night.

Best regards.

Well, I have a rocna and power set and still dive the anchor every time I can, AND after any major wind change AND before any major wind event. A few reasons: peace of mind and we're always swimming around so may as well snorkel over to it and look. But also during 'normal' situations, upon inspection I've found my chain wrapped around the only bloody rock in the harbor, and another time the anchor itself plowed under a (different) rock. I've found a coil of cable a few feet away in otherwise good sand that I would have dragged my chain thru on an expected windshift. I like to leave early in the morning usually, and if I know I have work to do to unhook then I can wake someone else up to help or take care of it earlier or adjust my plans. I like to see if anyone is crossed over my rode or if there is an anchor under me in crowded places. I like to make sure everything is just so, so I can sleep well

EDIT: I'd also add that I think if you need eyes on the anchor and cannot dive it for whatever reason (murk, cold, lazy) then the gopro suggestion slid down the rode during the powerset would be cheapest and easiest, with probably gear you already have. Get a loop of smooth heavy metal that can be clipped around the chain with the camera on it, put the engine astern, when the chain is tight and lifted off the seabed, slide camera down and back and review footage over a beer.

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by Montanan

It seems that with each swing of the boat one would also have the same motivation to dive to visually inspect that the anchor has reset itself properly, but that is also easy to prove by just backing hard on the rode yet again to become certain of its reset holding power,; that is something I like to do when the tide or wind shifts before retiring for the night.

A good primary anchor design that is well set in a reasonable substrate will almost always “shuffle” or remain buried and set if there is a change in direction of pull.

People imagine their anchor will break out and have to reset with a significant change in wind direction, but this almost never occurs in practice, providing the above criteria are met.

There would be nothing wrong with retesting the set before retiring (although I have never done this or thought it necessary). Anchoring is never 100% reliable no matter what is done.

Backing down hard is good idea when initially dropping the anchor. This will set the anchor and tests the holding. However, it is worth remembering that with most sailboats this only tests the holding to the equivalent force developed in 25-30 knots of wind. If the wind is stronger than this, the anchor will need to develop greater holding ability. The anchor can still have a reasonably poor set and pass the full reverse test.

This is an example of an anchor that has developed enough grip to hold full reverse power from most sailboats, but the anchor is not very secure. The grip is mainly from heaping up and piling the substrate in front of the anchor. This is another example where observing the anchor reveals information that would not otherwise be known. In this example I would pick up the anchor and try again.

It is certainly not essential to observe the anchor, but if you have the opportunity to do so, it is worthwhile.

[hzcruiser]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

The only drawback of the underwater float is that occasionally it can become caught under the fluke. Also, if anchoring in very shallow water it needs to be clipped or tied back so it is not a hazard to other boats.

This is a photo of an example attached to my Mantus anchor:

That reminds me of the "anchorwitch" on my gear: a 60cm steel cable with a small float, attached to the crown and going to a mechanism on the chain that could release a hook. The second part is the retrieval system: a weighted plastic sleeve with a slit in it that can be lowered from the bow over the (now) taught chain and pick up that hook, allowing to pull out the anchor backwards.

I haven't tried it in earnest yet and can't endorse them anyway since it seems they went out of business. At least their website gets redirected to an empty page.
Google still finds some pics though:

https://www.naucat.com/oprema/en/dec...ouled-anchors/

[introverted]

Originally Posted by madn

Has anybody seen or even using an affordable system to check the anchor on the ground this way?

Save the money and spend it on an anchor 1 size up and use your current anchor as a backup or set a stern or Bahamian anchor when you are nervous about shifting currents or questionable substrates. The other viable option is to shove one of your crew overboard and tell them 'no ladder till you dive the anchor'

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by hzcruiser

That reminds me of the "anchorwitch" on my gear: a 60cm steel cable with a small float, attached to the crown and going to a mechanism on the chain that could release a hook. The second part is the retrieval system: a weighted plastic sleeve with a slit in it that can be lowered from the bow over the (now) taught chain and pick up that hook, allowing to pull out the anchor backwards.

Someone much smarter than me suggested on this forum many years ago that the underwater plastic float could be usefully replaced with something sturdy and designed to caught with grappling hook.

If the anchor becomes caught then you troll around the anchor with the dingy towing a grappling hook just off the bottom. Once the underwater float is hooked the rope is used to pull the anchor out backwards.

I have never tried this, but I think it would work. I always note the position of my anchor with the GPS so positioning the dinghy over the anchor should be no problem. I even have a small fishfinder that can be clipped onto the tender (to check depths around the boat) and this can just detect my small plastic underwater float in good conditions. A larger metal float should show up well on the fishfinder screen.

However, if you have a good anchor that sets quickly and does not drag the chance of catching the anchor is not high and so I have never felt sufficiently motivated to give the idea a try. The concept would not usually fix the problem if it us the chain rather than the anchor that is stuck. With a good anchor that sets in a short distance more frequently it is the chain rather than the anchor that is caught.

[cyan]

It's funny when people speak of science fiction and mermaids. In fairness, cell phones probably seemed like science fiction upon first introduction.

Our test system used an acoustic modem, 64bps, (yes bits per sec, no multiplier) with a black and white board camera, 640x480 8 bits, and an H.264 encoder. (these modems are used in NOAA buoys) We were was getting about 1 frame per minute- not motion video but pretty decent stills in spite of the drastic compression ratio.

There were a couple of issues that could be solved with a little R&D. I think the speed (thus frame rate) could be improved, but the modem itself was off the shelf at about $1500. A different codec might be better, as-intra frame was a bit optimistic.(until the speeds are higher) I don't think the total cost would be worth the benefit at this point, though, as you probably wouldn't pay $3000 for this thing. In the end I think a wire makes more sense, given the difficulty.
FYI, we also experimented with using the chain itself as a ground-start transmission line with mixed success...

BTW, I'm absolutely sure these hurdles have already been overcome by a particular navy. Blue lasers, anyone? Google it. Science fiction, indeed.

[wguinon]

RF won't propagate far in sea water, but an acoustic link would do the job. Often overlooked for data comm since multipath effects severely limit signaling bandwidth, this link is vertical so multipath would not be a big issue.