Ultra Swivel - opinions?

[estarzinger]

The 'bent/twisted livk' is a solution specifically designed to simply solve the 'wrong way' problem, unlike the swivel which was really designed to primarily solve the chain twist problem.

This: OSCULATI Twist connection, anchor-swivelling version was the solution to our 'anchor coming in the roller the wrong way' problems.

You can DIY make a 'bent link' out of steel plate for very little money which will do the same thing, just a bit less elegantly

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by Panope

Nothing. Chain will harmlessly rub on the side plates if the rode is aligned excessively to one side or the other.

Ah. Got it.

We've got some space between roller and sideplates, which mostly means jams are possible, hence the groove. (Or even groove notwithstanding, sometimes.)

Not sure I can see how lack of groove would have any affect on ours; the anchor comes up about half the time backwards, the other half OK. Haven't found a pattern, although the idea that it starts at the splice end -- and remains that way because of the groove -- sounds plausible.

Originally Posted by estarzinger

The 'bent/twisted livk' is a solution specifically designed to simply solve the 'wrong way' problem, unlike the swivel which was really designed to primarily solve the chain twist problem.

This: OSCULATI Twist connection, anchor-swivelling version was the solution to our 'anchor coming in the roller the wrong way' problems.

You can DIY make a 'bent link' out of steel plate for very little money which will do the same thing, just a bit less elegantly

Thanks for suggestion. That partlcular product looks like it incorporates a swivel function, too... but I could see a fixed (but bent) version having some effect.

-Chris

[Nicholson58]

Originally Posted by Panope

Nothing. Chain will harmlessly rub on the side plates if the rode is aligned excessively to one side or the other.

I did not see it myself, but a friend had a boat with a custom bow roller that, in addition to the normal horizontal roller, had a vertical roller on either side.

Like this but smaller

I see a clue. With a totally flat roller the chain also will not roll since it cannot "fall over". Any geometry that prevents the chain from climbing and rolling back will do. Perhaps even a steep V-groove that keeps every other link upright and has slippery or very hard sides would work too. My problem roller is great for rope. It is round and would fit a tomato can nicely. It is rubber, about as hard as a good tire tread & so, a bit tacky.

We had the bow fitting off for repairs. You can see the rollers. 4inch OD and 4 inches wide. Admiral was way better fit to back the bolts when we re-installed. You can see the distance from the wildcat to the bow. The new roller is larger in diameter. The G4 chain nests perfectly in the groove and the cross links nicely fill the flat. Its nice to have a machine shop available outside my office.

Another thought on the flip & roll. With 8 feet from the wildcat to the roller, probably no swivel needed. Its going to roll!!

[Panope]

Originally Posted by Nicholson58

I see a clue. With a totally flat roller the chain also will not roll since it cannot "fall over".............

I agree with this hypothesis. My roller is mostly flat. The 45 degree beveled portions (not quite visible in picture) are small and chain has no opportunity to climb high enough to "fall over".

One might look at my roller and ask "why is it so wide?". My only thought is that if an anchor with a tall shank is used (like my Manson Supreme), a narrow anchor roller/channel will defeat the self-righting of an upside-down anchor.

I do not claim to be any kind of anchor roller expert. When I built this set-up, I re-used the old roller and axle that we had already been using for years. The complete lack of chain twisting and anchor stowing problems is telling me that this may be one of the better roller styles.

Steve

[Kenomac]

This is my third season using the Ultra swivel with 12mm galvanized chain. This is how things looked yesterday following 4 months or 120 days being continuously submerged in seawater. Not a problem, I simply cut off the last two links using a grinder like I've done each of the past two years, then I'm good for another 4-5 months. No need to replace the galvanized for stainless chain. The corrosion is probably due mostly to friction wear, rather than galvanic corrosion... or maybe a combination of the two. But as you can see, the rest of the chain is unaffected.

[Kenomac]

Here's the tools used to replace the final two links.

[Kenomac]

After I place a little Locktite on the bolt and install, the job will be complete in less than 10 minutes, then on to servicing the windlass and bow roller.