Spot treating rust on anchor chain

[Suijin]

I have 200' of G4 and at the bottom of the pile in the anchor locker a few links have started to rust, in a the length of chain that is rarely out of the locker.

What is the best way to treat these? What is the best regimen for maintenance and protection going forward?

And for the sake of focus and harmony let's not turn this into a thread about condemning the chain etc. Stay on topic please.

[capt-couillon]

Wire brush... Ospho... Cold Galvanize in a "rattle-can"

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[Suijin]

Sounds like a plan. Thanks.

[Lepke]

Also you can buy zinc rod and with a torch, regalvanize bad spots.

[jmschmidt]

Wow, see what kind of to-the-point answers and good info you get when you lay down the law to the word smiths on this forum who stray from the subject, post irrelevant comments and generally forget why they are here.

[S/V Alchemy]

Originally Posted by jmschmidt

Wow, see what kind of to-the-point answers and good info you get when you lay down the law to the word smiths on this forum who stray from the subject, post irrelevant comments and generally forget why they are here.

To avoid paying for advice?

[SVNeko]

Wouldn't Ospho remove the galvanizing?

[CarinaPDX]

IIUC the cold galvanizing in a can is basically a zinc-laden paint. The only problem with using a paint-type product is that it has to be removed, usually by sand-blasting, before the chain can be re-galvanized. Otherwise the paint will inhibit the zinc galvanizing from coating the painted area. This is also a concern if you use paint to mark the lengths of chain.

I have used the cold galvanizing in a can before and it seemed to work well - just remember to remove it before galvanizing.

Greg

[Jim Cate]

Cold gal can work well on parts of t he chain that are not in active use, but when the chain is under t ension and movement, the cold gal will not last long where the links bear upon each other. And if IRC, the instructions with cold gal say not to use Ospho or other rust converters before application. Might want to check on t hat...

Jim

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

Cold gal can work well on parts of t he chain that are not in active use, but when the chain is under t ension and movement, the cold gal will not last long where the links bear upon each other. And if IRC, the instructions with cold gal say not to use Ospho or other rust converters before application. Might want to check on t hat...

Jim

Jim, ya memory is good

Cold gal is a waste of time if used on rust that has been converted by Ospho. It is fine if used on bare clean metal. If there is light rust that can't be removed mechanically and you wish to use cold gal paint, it is better to apply directly onto the light rust rather than convert the rust with Ospho.

However if you want to Ospho, then paint with a metal primer rather than gold gal.

The chemistry of the above statements are sound but I don't recall the reactions at the moment and I am too lazy to look it up (again) .

In essence, rust converted by Ospho becomes an insulating surface which prevents the zinc in the cold gal from becoming the sacrificial anode to the underlying steel.

There are some threads about it on CF and google should know.

[CarinaPDX]

Originally Posted by Wotname

The chemistry of the above statements are sound but I don't recall the reactions at the moment and I am too lazy to look it up (again) .

Wikipedia to the rescue:

Phosphoric acid may be used to remove rust by direct application to rusted iron, steel tools, or other surfaces. The phosphoric acid changes the reddish-brown iron(III) oxide, Fe2O3 (rust) to ferric phosphate, FePO4. An empirical formula for this reaction is: 2 H3PO4 + Fe2O3 → 2 FePO4 + 3 H2O

See: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphoric_acid


So two phosphoric acid molecules plus one iron oxide molecule becomes two ferric phosphate molecules plus three water molecules.


Enlightenment is not always helpful...



Greg

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by Suijin

I have 200' of G4 and at the bottom of the pile in the anchor locker a few links have started to rust, in a the length of chain that is rarely out of the locker.

What is the best way to treat these? What is the best regimen for maintenance and protection going forward?

And for the sake of focus and harmony let's not turn this into a thread about condemning the chain etc. Stay on topic please.

Hi there is a guy who moors his self built steel ketch near my boat and his routine with any rest that is not exposed like deck etc is lanacote, let dry and paint if necessary. Check and reapply as necessary, says it is the best solution he has found.

[Spade Anchor]

Anyone have experience with this product? I am just learning about it and would love any feedback.
If I have it correctly it would not "fix" the chain but it would prevent it from getting worse. If it works, it would be a great preventative maintenance item.

Liquid A | Fluid Film

[Scot McPherson]

ospho doesn't stop it from rusting, it just changes the existing rust into a different kind of rust. Black Rust....black rust is what makes cast iron black, but let water sit on cast iron and you'll start getting red spots all over that will grow.


You still need to get rid of the rust and then galvanize the chain. Bring it in to a metal coater and have them hot dip the hole chain.

[Steve Bean]

Compare fluid film with cosmoline? Compare with anhydrous lanolin?