Splicing nylon rode to chain

[sailalfin]

I wonder if there has been some discussion on pros and cons of the different ways to splice: Back splice or elongated splice. My mind tells me that the back splice strength is only of three bends of the nylon, while the elongated depends of the friction of the three strands along 12 inches of chain. I favor the latter. Any wisdom out there?

[ryon]

Wisdom? I'm not sure. We did some splicing of three-strand rope to chain last weekend aboard the brig Pilgrim. Start by splitting the three strands into four, then alternate two-by-two thru the chain. Tightly seize the final links, then serve over.

This was made to run smoothly over a metal shiv. If you expect to run it over a wildcat, then good luck!

[GordMay]

➥ https://cse.google.com/cse?siteurl=w...ain&gsc.page=1

[estarzinger]

I have tested all the chain splices. Properly done they are all near full strength.

All the windless manufacturers recommend the back/crown method, and recommend strongly against the "friction" method. This is because they have experience that a chain link can turn sideways in the friction method and jam the windless.

[S/V Alchemy]

Originally Posted by estarzinger

I have tested all the chain splices. Properly done they are all near full strength.

All the windless manufacturers recommend the back/crown method, and recommend strongly against the "friction" method. This is because they have experience that a chain link can turn sideways in the friction method and jam the windless.

Agreed. There's no rule against a longer backsplice, either. On our lunch hook/stern anchor, there's a five-metre chain leader to the anchor and at the other end a 45 cm backsplice, whipped and parcelled with leather anti-chafe.

My work isn't pretty, just functional!

[ryon]

The backsplice method concentrates a lot of strain on the line at one point, which happens to be a chafe point as well.

For safety, a better choice might be an eye and thimble shackeled to the chain.

[boatman61]

I dislike 3 strand nylon as an anchor rode.. much prefer multi-plait rode's when splicing onto chain...

1.Tie a short whipping or constrictor knot around the Anchorplait© the equivalent of 14 links of chain from the end.
2.Unlay the rope back to the mark keeping the pairs taped together so that you have four working ends.
3.Thread all four ends through the first link, crossing them in figure X.
4.Thread the green and white pair through link 2 and the yellow and blue through link 3 (One from each side as in figure Y).
5.Continue alternate links with each of the pairs until the green and white through links 1, 2, 4, 6 and 8, and then disregard and the yellow and blue are through 1, 3, 5, 7, and 9.
6.Now split the yellow and blue parts into four separate strands and thread these through link 10, crossing them as in link 1, (two from each side) and then similarly through link 11.
7.Whip and heat seal the ends together around the outside of the links, each to its own colour (i.e. yellow to yellow, blue to blue, green to green and white to white) (As in figure Z).
N.B. You may, if there is sufficient room in the links, repeat step 3 until link 9 (disregarding steps 4 and 5) continuing at step

[estarzinger]

^^ boaty - that is the "friction method" (it has a bunch of different names - Brion Toss calls it a shovel splice) that the windless manufacturers all recommend against (for reason I mention above)

If you are not using a windless then it is all fine.

As to the chafe comment - I have cut old properly done chain splices apart after several years of use and there is essentially zero chafe at the contact point (if the splice is done properly the rope does not move against the chain at all). And a thimble and shackle will again not run thru most windlesses.

So, again it depends on if you have a windless in the system or not - if not any of the methods work just fine.

I agree with Boaty on preferring multi-plait - but you can do a 'back splice' with it and that is what is recommended by the windless guys (for the reason I mentioned in a post above).

All I can say guys is #1 if you do not have a windless any of the methods works just fine and there is no significant difference between them (I have tested them first hand), but #2 if you have a windless there is one recommended way to do this.

[boatman61]

Originally Posted by estarzinger

^^ boaty - that is the "friction method" (it has a bunch of different names - Brion Toss calls it a shovel splice) that the windless manufacturers all recommend against (for reason I mention above)

If you are not using a windless then it is all fine.

As to the chafe comment - I have cut old properly done chain splices apart after several years of use and there is essentially zero chafe at the contact point (if the splice is done properly the rope does not move against the chain at all). And a thimble and shackle will again not run thru most windlesses.

So, again it depends on if you have a windless in the system or not - if not any of the methods work just fine.

I agree with Boaty on preferring multi-plait - but you can do a 'back splice' with it and that is what is recommended by the windless guys (for the reason I mentioned in a post above).

All I can say guys is #1 if you do not have a windless any of the methods works just fine and there is no significant difference between them (I have tested them first hand), but #2 if you have a windless there is one recommended way to do this.

Estarzinger... personally I use all chain at the bow.. rope rode & chain is for the kedge anchor.
However on boats that do use rope n chain combo's with the windlass most all have a drum for the rope.. and when it becomes chain I stop hauling, stophook the chain and switch it across to the chain side.. no biggie

[reed1v]

Practical Sailor did a review on this issue some years back. Forgot what they found in their tests.

[Slainte1]

I have stopped splicing directly to chain as it causes premature rusting where the chain is in contact with damp rope

[svinshallah]

I tried a shovel splice exactly once, fortunately on my stern anchor. It chafed through in about three weeks and broke. Fortunately I was on the boat in shallow water and could immediately recover the anchor, splice a thimble on the end of the line and reset the anchor. I never tried it again.


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[Frankly]

Worked this over pretty good a few weeks back.

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...da-164762.html

[HopCar]

I've done a lot of tapered back splices three strand to chain. No one has ever had a problem getting them to go through combination chain/rope gypsy. I'm actually surprised at how little chafe there is between the rope and chain.

[NewMoon]

Originally Posted by HopCar

I've done a lot of tapered back splices three strand to chain. No one has ever had a problem getting them to go through combination chain/rope gypsy. I'm actually surprised at how little chafe there is between the rope and chain.

Likewise. I resplice after every summer of cruising, and they work very well for me. They're easy to inspect for condition, which I do often, since I'm out on the bow anchoring daily. Never had to re-do one in mid-summer because of wear at the attach point.