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Old 27-06-2009, 23:22   #1
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Snubbers, Chain Stoppers, Pawls

I see much talk about windless use and windless types, but little about snubbers, chain stoppers and pawls. When one reads through the owners manual of a windless, one will find a warning that the windless is not built to withstand the stress of a deployed anchor, and that the anchor chain must be attached to a secure/robust site.

Can someone explain, in simple terms, the best way to simply secure an anchor chain or rope rode to the bow. Please assume the hardware of a typical production boat... Beneteau, Hunter, Catalina.

Many thanks!
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Old 27-06-2009, 23:48   #2
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Here are my two preferred methods of taking the load of the chain off the windlass.

I use an ABI bridle plate with bridle ropes to my bows.


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I use the chain hook (devil's claw) when I want to take the load off the windlass with a single line.

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I never use purpose made snubbers, but I use three stand nylon that has plenty of stretch which works like a snubber to some degree.
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Old 28-06-2009, 04:43   #3
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Greetings and welcome aboard, Wakadui.

Chain Stoppers:

Accessories

Winch Accessories

http://www.sea-dog.com/PDF/321820.pdf

http://www.suncorstainless.com/anchor/S0180-03.jpg

Windline.com

IMTRA Marine Products


Chain Snubbers & Claws:

Best Marine Imports - Chain Claws - Snubbers - Mooring Equipment - Anchor Buoys - Rope Cutters

http://www.sea-dog.com/PDF/321850.pdf

Johnson Marine Hardware Online Virtual Catalog: Page 43

IMTRA Marine Products
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Old 28-06-2009, 05:19   #4
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Maxingout,
I am curious..........why do you not use pourpose made snubbers??????
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Old 28-06-2009, 06:03   #5
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I don't use them because its too eaay to make one for little to nothing.
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Old 28-06-2009, 06:35   #6
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Old 28-06-2009, 07:45   #7
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I use 2 drop forged galvanized chain hooks that are load rated available at most hardware stores. Short bit of double braid spliced on and you are done.
The plate style ones I have seen bend and let loose in sudden blows topping 60 -80 knots down south. It's the impact load when the boat is brought up short that bends them.
One 44 ft boat ended up on it’s side in 2 feet of water in what’s called @&&hole of a chicken wind (literal translation from Spanish). It was a quality stopper properly sized for the boat. All the chain ended up running out and then pulled out the fitting at the bitter end.
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Old 28-06-2009, 07:46   #8
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See also:

The Self-Sufficient Sailor ~ by Lin Pardey
Page 157 ➥ The Self-Sufficient Sailor - Google Books

How Boat Things Work ~ by Charlie Wing
Page 121 ➥ How Boat Things Work: An Illustrated ... - Google Books

Quickline Takes a Load Off
http://www.ultra-sidra.com/doc/pract...a-load-off.pdf
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Old 28-06-2009, 12:17   #9
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I use always used a chain hook and length of nylon line when the anchor is deployed and that works well to provide the spring needed in an all chain rode, but got the opportunity to completely rebuild my windlass recently from other abuses. I thought it was OK to bring the boat up to the anchor with the electric windlass and to tension (just a bit-I did not over do it) the anchor in place in the bow roller with the windlass. Over time, the top bearing became worn, leaked, corroded and destroyed all the bearings in the system. The bearings in windlasses are necessarily just hardened steel (stainless bearings are not strong enough) and need to be isolated with grease or waterproof fittings that can leak if not maintained or if abused. I am putting in a commercial chain stopper because rigging the snubber chain hook multiple times to pull out the anchor is a pain in the butt and it will be a better way to snub it to secure it on deck. If I had done this in the first place, I would not have spent two days and more than $150 in bearings, seals and circlips to rebuild the thing. I now believe the instruction books that say do not back down, pull up, or simply lie on your anchor with just the windlass.
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Old 28-06-2009, 13:38   #10
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I have a locking pawl on my windlass but then I have a chain-hook snubber with line to a reinforced cleat to take the load off the windlass, and then I have a chain-hook and nylon bridal which takes the load off the snubber and springs the jerk on the chain. Yes, I sometimes wear a belt and suspenders too.

I like the bridal not only because it springs the chain, but it is easier to warp the boat around into the waves when they are contrary to the direction the boat is setting. Also, when the boat is pitching badly into the wind and waves I ease the chain so the bridal is prevented from going under the boat and move the bridal ends well aft, sometimes as far aft as the cockpit winches to a neutral position to prevent any yanking on the anchor caused by the pitching.

I'm kind of particular about anchoring and have 5 anchors on my boat. In Pict 1 below is my Windlass w/chain to my FX-37 mud anchor with a snubber on the chain, and picture 2 shows one side of a bridal waiting to be attached. I use forged hooks for my chain grabbers and I always Mouse the hooks.

Good Luck

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Old 28-06-2009, 20:22   #11
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Old 28-06-2009, 22:52   #12
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I have started to use 9 mm mountian climbing rope for the snubber. It has more stretch than available sailing rope. I heard this suggestion from Evan Starzinger of Hawk, so it's not my idea but it works great. The line is about 30 feet long and in high winds with good size waves we'll put most out.

I have used different hooks, including the expensive Wichard snubber hook, which bent enough to come of the chain in about 35 knot winds in northern Sardinia. I'm back to using cheap galvanized ones.
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Old 28-06-2009, 23:24   #13
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This type of thing but with an eye instead of the pin; and some cheap nylon twist rope that gives good stretch.
Its easy, quick and low cost



By the way a bridle will NOT stop a production boat swing around at anchor (but its great for Cats). I have had a few days doing nothing but sitting on the beach with a hand baring compass testing different anti swing techniques.

I'm still looking for ideas LOL

Mark
PS Our snubber rope is soooo old that I'm thinking of replacing it... but if its not broke.........
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Old 29-06-2009, 01:43   #14
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Quote:
I have started to use 9 mm mountian climbing rope for the snubber.
A Dynamic not a Static I hope. A Static is only allowed to have 10% at break so piles less than a yachting rope. Dynamic do and are indeed designed to stretch more than Static but even then bugger all more, if at all, than some ropes used by boats. But climbing ropes lose their stretch relatively quickly compared to average boat ropes. A couple of things to keep in mind.

The best ropes to use are nylons and multiplaits like a 8 or 12 strand. One size down from what you would use as a anchor warp. This is so they do stretch well. Too big and they just won't.

Double braids? Sure but why bother when a 3 strand is cheaper and quicker to put together well. If you want to you a double braid make sure it's a nylon rather than a polyester, it'll just work better.

Polyprop or Polyethylene ropes? No way, silly idea. These will melt under the cyclic loading snubbers do. What's more they will melt from the inside out so you'll never see it coming until it's all over.

Length? longer is better than shorter, more rope to stretch.


Snubber ropes are a consumable item. If you make them to last for a gazillion years you are making one that won't do it's job for long.

Ropes work harden so if you work your snubber hard it will only stretch less.

Hard to beat a bog standard bit of 3 strand really. Grab a std grab hook off the shelf, a short of rope from the specials bin, a cold beer and you have the makings of a good basic which will work well snubber. Easy peasy and all done in a few minutes.

DON'T FORGET - most ropes on boats fail due to chafe. Do whatever you have to to minimise that.
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Old 29-06-2009, 04:19   #15
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You can keep a monohull from swinging at anchor by using a single line snubber.
Clip your chain hook onto your anchor chain and attach the end of the line to the stern. Let out a bit of chain till you are about 30 deg. to the wind. You will stay on one tack.

A note on galvanized chain hooks as pictured in MarkJ post. It might not look pretty but it will not fail. The chain will stretch (the links will elongate) before this hook will break.
If you are using high test chain you may want to use a grade 8 hook (sane grade of metal as your chain) You can find them at Hamilton Marine http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/2,300.html In the commercial fishing section or at an industrial parts supplier.
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