Snubber Version 3

[estarzinger]

For those of you following my process to build a 'supper snubber' . . . here is my latest version after a summer of experimentation.



From the top:

I have switched from 11mm climbing line to 1/2" brait for the elastic portion. There was no failure of the climbing line, but the brait specs seem superior for this application and I am more comfortable with the splicing.

The eye splice with thimble in the end of the brait is the same. That's where the soft shackle attachment to the chain goes (soft shackle not shown). By the way, the soft shackle shows no wear/chafe or "pinching" after a summer of use.

Then a 'splice to splice' join (rather than the old double sheet bend) between the brait and the dyneema. (I need to melt the strands sticking out from the brait splice). There was no failure of the sheet bend, but the double splice should be superior.

Then for the dyneema I have made it two legs rather than one. This allows me to cleat it to both bow cleats (and to make a bridle if I should want to). I have also put small eye splices in the end of the dyneema to allow me to either lengthen the snubber in say the middle of a storm, or to lash the tails to the cleats (to absolutely prevent 'slipping').

I will add some anti-chafe fire hose to the dyneema legs.

[rebel heart]

Still rocking my 50' length of 1/2" three strand which gets rolling hitched to the chain. Pretty soon getting a new one and chopping the old in two and making mooring lines out of it.

You guys and your fancy snubbers!

[Albro359]

Not so sure about using dyneema in this application...it can chafe easily and while longitudinally very strong it doesn't do well with side loading

[Matt Johnson]

Nice and professional looking...must have been Beth's work

We will have to try something like this with the bulk of 3/8" Amsteel Blue I accidently won on ebay. It was too good of a deal to pass up, but way too large for anything else on my boat.

[Matt Johnson]

Originally Posted by Albro359

Not so sure about using dyneema in this application...it can chafe easily and while longitudinally very strong it doesn't do well with side loading

Chafe easily? Isn't it the most chafe resistant thread made? Aren't all the tugs and lumber guys using Dyneema sleeves for chafe guards?

[Dennis.G]

Originally Posted by Albro359

Not so sure about using dyneema in this application...it can chafe easily and while longitudinally very strong it doesn't do well with side loading

I thought a rope only carries longitudinal stress. What is side loading? Crushing the rope?

[Albro359]

Sorry...screwed up there...what was I thinking ?
I take it all back !

[Ocean Girl]

Originally Posted by estarzinger

For those of you following my process to build a 'supper snubber' . . . here is my latest version after a summer of experimentation.

Attachment 66697

From the top:

I have switched from 11mm climbing line to 1/2" brait for the elastic portion. There was no failure of the climbing line, but the brait specs seem superior for this application and I am more comfortable with the splicing.

The eye splice with thimble in the end of the brait is the same. That's where the soft shackle attachment to the chain goes (soft shackle not shown). By the way, the soft shackle shows no wear/chafe or "pinching" after a summer of use.

Then a 'splice to splice' join (rather than the old double sheet bend) between the brait and the dyneema. (I need to melt the strands sticking out from the brait splice). There was no failure of the sheet bend, but the double splice should be superior.

Then for the dyneema I have made it two legs rather than one. This allows me to cleat it to both bow cleats (and to make a bridle if I should want to). I have also put small eye splices in the end of the dyneema to allow me to either lengthen the snubber in say the middle of a storm, or to lash the tails to the cleats (to absolutely prevent 'slipping').

I will add some anti-chafe fire hose to the dyneema legs.

Very nice! Thanks for taking the time to share.

[Jim Cate]

Nice job, Evans, and thanks for the in-use report about the longevity of the Dyneema portion.

Query: why did you not use larger eye splices in the ends... ones that would allow you to loop over the deck cleats which would absolutely prevent slippage? Oh... what size is the Dyneema line?

Cheers,

Jim

[dugout]

Originally Posted by estarzinger

For those of you following my process to build a 'supper snubber' . . . here is my latest version after a summer of experimentation.e).

Evans, this is very interesting; thanks for sharing.
When you have time can you discuss the soft shackle, chain attachment, and your method/material of constructing the shackle.

In regard to dyneema, are you concerned over friction heating weakening in the anti-chafe fire hose or does the lack of stretch eliminate most of that?

I have had problems using fire hose over nylon and switched to nylon tubular webbing for anti-chafe solving the heat issue.

Thanks again!

[estarzinger]

Dyneema is 10mm . . . Just because I had some (use it for reef tack lines)

I thought about 'full size' loops, but did not want to be tempted to use them, as I consider not being able to release the snubber while under load to be bad practice. A lashing I can release. But it's certaintly a debatable point . . . I suspect there will be a version 4 in another year. I like working with rope, and we use the snubber essentially every day so it seems worthwhile to work on improving it.

[estarzinger]

Originally Posted by dugout

Evans, this is very interesting; thanks for sharing.
When you have time can you discuss the soft shackle, chain attachment, and your method/material of constructing the shackle.

In regard to dyneema, are you concerned over friction heating weakening in the anti-chafe fire hose or does the lack of stretch eliminate most of that?

Here is something I wrote on version 2, it has some pics and discussion on the soft shackle. There are descriptions all over the web on how to make them - very easy, a sliding loop with a diamond stopper knot.

Version 2 snubber

The heat build up problem is related to the nylon stretch, and is not a problem with dyneema.

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by estarzinger

Dyneema is 10mm . . . Just because I had some (use it for reef tack lines)

I thought about 'full size' loops, but did not want to be tempted to use them, as I consider not being able to release the snubber while under load to be bad practice. A lashing I can release. But it's certaintly a debatable point . . . I suspect there will be a version 4 in another year. I like working with rope, and we use the snubber essentially every day so it seems worthwhile to work on improving it.

Understood, and thanks. Final question (well, final for now!): why such a long Dyneema section? When I was considering this sort of snubber construction I contemplated just enough Dyneema to get beyond all the possible chafe points.

Cheers,

Jim

[Kenomac]

I just thought you might get a kick out of our "super snubber." I left the shoes in the picture to give it some scale. The line is 1 inch. The contraption works great, never even feels like we're at anchor.... no tugging or chain noise at all. The chain grab on the end is an Ultra Chain grab 13mm.

[estarzinger]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

Understood, and thanks. Final question (well, final for now!): why such a long Dyneema section? When I was considering this sort of snubber construction I contemplated just enough Dyneema to get beyond all the possible chafe points.

Cheers,

Jim

Yes, the intent is dyneema from the cleat to just over the bow roller.

I do have more than I need right now . . . . Better to be too long than too short when experimenting, and I am still experimenting with the best (fastest but still secure) tug boat hitch. I can always cut it later.