Question About Shackles

[Dockhead]

I have been using a massive 12-14mm Kong swivel to attach my anchor to the chain. The swivel is useful, but I really wanted a strong attachment to my anchor, since no shackle which I was able to find at the time which would fit through my bow roller was strong enough.

Well, as it turns out, the big Kong swivel (weighing 2.4kg!) also doesn't go through my bow roller very well. It jams on my forestay pin. I'm tired of this and decided to change it.

So I bought the next size down of Kong swivel, which has SWL of 2000kg, the same as my chain. But this one will break if a side force of 2000kg is applied. So I decided to try to put a shackle between the swivel and the anchor. Now there are some new super-strong Wichard shackles which look like they might do the business. A 12mm one has breaking load -- according to the mfr -- of 10,000 kg, more than my chain.

But this one has a protruding pin, and I'm afraid it might catch on my bow roller again. The flush pin type (allen key head) in 12mm has SWL of 2100kg and breaking strength of 6000kg.

What do you guys think?

[barnakiel]

They are not new. They have been around for like 10 or perhaps 20 years. Wichard HR shackles. Very good stuff. Very expensive too.

Try plain D and C counterparts first to see which set-up goes over your roller better.

b.

[Stu Jackson]

The swivel or not-to-swivel discussion is almost as much fun as "Which anchor is best?" I find them totally unnecessary. Anchoring out weekly for over 25 years.

[barnakiel]

BTW a plain allen shackle will do the job too - but some people like to (mouse?) their anchor shackles, then the allen type can't be used.

When you have issues with the shackle/connector/whatever going over the roller - try experimenting with various set-ups up first. E.g.: use one D shackle on the anchor and one D shackle on the chain, if this does not go smooth, then go for a D on the anchor paired with a C on the chain, etc.. - there are at least 6 different combos with just 2 basic shackle styles, I bet one of them may work for you.

Cheers,
b.

[noelex 77]

If you use a swivel I would put a few linke of chain between the swivel and the anchor. The good swivels, like Kong are fine strength wise, but the jaws do not take much side force. Excessive side force will break them if they a connected directly to the anchor. The chain prevents this.
This still means you will need some shackles.
I could not get galvanised flush shakels
My solution was to use rated lifting D shakels. I then cut the end of the pin off and drilled a small hole for a mousing wire. The end result is something that is almost as slim and catch free as an Allen headed shackle.
I have obviosly modified the original design of the D shackle, but I think my modification has not effected the strength.
The lifting shakels give a lot a piece of mind some of the cheap galvanised shakels have inclusions and other defects.

[Dockhead]

Thanks for all the advice.

I have just put on a 12mm allen headed Wichard shackle which is not one of the high strength ones, but it is still rated at 2080 kg SWL and 6000kg break. This is quite close to my chain's strength (2000 and 8000). Without the Kong so far. I tried raising and lowering the anchor at my mooring, and it works just fine so far.

The new anchor -- a Spade -- has a completely different balance from the old Rocna, and it seems to come up straighter for some reason.

I will try it like this -- nice to have one less thing in the ground tackle which could break -- but when I anchor in a tidal stream for a long time, I spin around and around and around the anchor with every tide, so I fear that I will need to install the swivel in any case. But we'll see!

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

Thanks for all the advice.

I have just put on a 12mm allen headed Wichard shackle which is not one of the high strength ones, but it is still rated at 2080 kg SWL and 6000kg break. This is quite close to my chain's strength (2000 and 8000). Without the Kong so far. I tried raising and lowering the anchor at my mooring, and it works just fine so far.

The new anchor -- a Spade -- has a completely different balance from the old Rocna, and it seems to come up straighter for some reason.

I will try it like this -- nice to have one less thing in the ground tackle which could break -- but when I anchor in a tidal stream for a long time, I spin around and around and around the anchor with every tide, so I fear that I will need to install the swivel in any case. But we'll see!

A swivel will help in rotating the anchor in the right position for retrieval, but I have never found a problem without one.
I anchor over 300 days a year and only once in last 4 years have I noticed many twist anchor chain, from swinging around, when retrieving the anchor.
The one occasion I did notice some twist I had been anchored in the same spot for about 3 months over a Med winter. Even then the anchor spun around when it broke out and there was no problem retrieving it.

Many boats fit a swivel as rountene and I suspect many of these could do without the added complication and expense without any drawbacks. If you do fit a swivel make it a good one and fit it correctly.