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Old 13-05-2014, 08:44   #16
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Re: Photos of Anchors Setting.

The owner of the Spade is freind of mine and my wife and I went around for dinner last night.

After discussing anchors at length we decided to apply some more force to the Spade to see what would happen. (After a few drinks it seemed like a good idea ).The boat concerned has a big three blade variable pitch propeller and can generate a lot of setting power (more than I can manage with my set up)

My wife went for swim this morning and took some more photos for me. As you can see the Spade has set deeper. It now has the fluke completely covered. The anchor has not moved other than diving deeper and it is now very well set indeed. An excellent result consistent with the typical high performance of the steel Spade
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Old 13-05-2014, 10:20   #17
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Re: Photos of Anchors Setting.

The Spade - yes, it's ours! The following photo was taken in a different anchorage with a different camera - a Panasonic Lumix DMC-FT25EB-A. The anchor is in 10 metres in a sand and light weed bottom with 4:1 scope. The picture was taken at a distance of 3 metres.

The anchor initially plowed a short (1 metre) furrow in the weedy bottom before setting with maximum revs held for 30 seconds - as per noelex77 technique which we learnt last night and which works very well. The anchor is a 45kg galvanised Spade on 11mm chain.
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Old 13-05-2014, 10:26   #18
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Re: Photos of Anchors Setting.

There were also two other boats anchored within 200 metres of us both with Deltas.

Both boats appeared to have a good setting technique but with different results to the anchor set.
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Old 13-05-2014, 10:37   #19
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Re: Photos of Anchors Setting.

Great photos. Almost as good as your cooking

In the Med I see a lot of people dive on their anchor, but even if looks terrible (like my photo of the Delta just lying on its side). They invariably do nothing.

Yep its on the bottom
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Old 13-05-2014, 10:42   #20
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Re: Photos of Anchors Setting.

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Great photos. Almost as good as your cooking
mwah!
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Old 13-05-2014, 11:20   #21
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Re: Photos of Anchors Setting.

The pic of the Spade with the contrast adjusted up a little. Its a little easier to make out.
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Old 13-05-2014, 11:31   #22
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Re: Photos of Anchors Setting.

Thanks Paul.

That's a big improvement.

I should get some photo manipulation software (preferably for the iPad. Are there any good ones?)
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Old 13-05-2014, 11:43   #23
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Re: Photos of Anchors Setting.

I don't know about the iPad, but pretty much any photo editing software will let you adjust the brightness and contrast. Most under water shots taken without a flash will need some help on the contrast so they look more realistic.
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Old 13-05-2014, 12:21   #24
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Re: Photos of Anchors Setting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JonJo View Post
Any idea why the Deltas both have 'tethers' attached. They are not buoyed, just lying on the seabed - so hardly easy to get at.
I suspect the buoy has broken off.

Some people use a floating line rather than a line with a float, but the line does tend to get clogged with sand etc (squid even lay their eggs on the line) and it tends to sink. A small float with a high tech, thin, strong line (because it can be used to pull the anchor out backwards) is generally best.

There is some risk if the float has too much bouyancy that it could upset the balance of the anchor so its best to keep it only a bit above neutral. Slight additional bouyancy on the rear of the anchor tends to increase the tip force anyway so there is no need to be too concerned.
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Old 13-05-2014, 20:44   #25
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Re: Photos of Anchors Setting.

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I do not recall what my first 'underwater' was, but early generation of the type and rated to 3m, I used it as 'just under water' and it still leaked fairly quickly. Having learnt I treat the WG 1 the same way - its snorkel proof (and does a decent job). But its cheap and 'semi-disposable' It does not have a housing. Its robust so good for use on the deck and up the mast. Its surprisingly good for close ups 'in the field'. It was never bought as being sophisticated, just point and shoot (the modern, underwater Brownie) Given that it has been replaced by Pentax with at least one update the, or my, WG 1 will look antiquated in 12 months time. There will be a better units made by someone and probably cheaper. So I have no illusions and expect to update, probably sooner, 12/24 months, rather than later.

But why do I get the impression you know a bit about all this - what's your recommendation - for decent still shots underwater (of say - anchors - to keep it 'on thread'). I for one am not interested in video (but many are) I have enough problems with stills without worrying about video.

Jonathan
Yes, diving with a tough camera needs to be considered as 'semi-disposable'without a housing.

I Have been out of extensive diving and hence underwater photography for nearly 20 years now and I would therefore not consider my advise particually good as most of my diving was done in those days with film before digital cameras using the Nikonos and a Sony Hi8 video camera in Aluminium housing. Unfortunatly there are no loner cameras made for that housing so I am looking down the route of a completely new system with no way out of spending $$$$.

My more recent terrestrial digital photography has been with cheaper Nikon SLR's and I hesitate at the cost of a high end SLR underwater housing.

The big positive however with digital photography is the converging of photo and video in all the new camera's. Just look at the capability of some of the phones these days.
Without going all the way to the expense of SLR camera's the dive camera supplier of my old video gear has recommended the SONY RX100 and perhaps the very tough compact Nauticam housing. The Sony has very high quality camera as well as video, a large CCD without going to the expense of SLR.

Sony RX-100 review for underwater photography, including focus speed, wet lenses|Underwater Photography Guide
Nauticam Australia - Underwater Housings for Digital SLR cameras - Innovation Underwater

https://www.backscatter.com/learn/ar...cle.php?ID=158

I think without picking any one of the good brands depending on your budget as long as you have a 40/50m rated housing it will be fine. Pushing any Tough camera/housing near its limit is asking for trouble. Once you take it below a couple of meters consider it potentially expendable.

Canon for instance has housings available for many of its compact cameras. Cost around that of the camera. Ikelite manufactures housings for many brands. Just google search for camera you like to find a housing. Many of the better compact cameras also have higher cost al housings available at greater cost.


Taking good photos of anchors is a real challenge as indicated by the photos in this thread. Taking photos from the surface obviously will always give just a blue colour due to the filtering properties of water.The best shots showing the best perspective will always be from the bottom using all the standard framing techniques.

For instance Nolex’s Rocna/crab shots taken last year from the bottom show things better than the recent ones from the surface.

Time to set up an annual CF anchor in action photography challenge.

Cheers
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Old 13-05-2014, 22:38   #26
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Re: Photos of Anchors Setting.

Downunder - Thanks for taking the time

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Old 13-05-2014, 23:06   #27
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Re: Photos of Anchors Setting.

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Time to set up an annual CF anchor in action photography challenge.
Sounds great. That is a good incentive to improve
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Old 13-05-2014, 23:10   #28
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Re: Photos of Anchors Setting.

A new anchorage and another photo of the Mantus anchor set at 4:1 in 9 metres. The anchor has buried deeply within a metre of contacting the bottom.

When I dive I like to have a poke at the bottom to get an idea of the consistency of the substrate. I have not done this, but from the photograph the sand at this anchorage looks softer than is typical for the area. More like the sand I see in Australian anchorages (this soft and very thick sand gives Australia its great beaches ).

This consistency (or even slightly softer) allows the anchor to set deeply, but the sand still has enough cohesion to provide good resistance. This is great for holding ability. It is a substrate that all anchors perform very well (with reasonable technique). The older generation anchors are fine in this sort of bottom, in fact there is little to distinguish the performance of all anchors. If bad conditions are forecast this is the sort of substrate you want if possible. Hard, very soft, or weedy anchorages are much more challenging and where newer anchors justify a changeover (although in very thick weed specialist weed anchors including the very old fisherman's can sometimes be the best.)

If any other boats arrive I will inspect the anchors and see if their performance confirms my impression from the photograph.

Edit: I have been playing around with a photo manipulation program for the iPad (snapseed) so I have updated the image like Paul suggested. It has made a significant difference.
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Old 13-05-2014, 23:12   #29
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Re: Photos of Anchors Setting.

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Sounds great. That is a good incentive to improve
You could even have above water section for those without an u/w camera.

Cheers
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Old 14-05-2014, 03:12   #30
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Re: Photos of Anchors Setting.

If all else fails we use one of these
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