New gen anchor "jerking" when set?

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by Cthoops

When I read an anchoring thread, it's almost inevitable that one or more people will comment that they feel a "jerk" when their new gen anchor sets - you can't miss it, I have to hold on, etc.

I think you are misinterpreting the "jerk" thing. Those of us who set by hand with combo chain rope rode, are holding on to the rode. The word "jerk" comes from: "It sets so quickly and firmly that it jerks me off the foredeck." OR "If your anchor doesn't jerk you off the foredeck, get a new gen anchor."

It was meant as a comparison to older anchors where they might have dragged first before setting. It was an obvious overkill of a comparison, but it seemed to have taken hold on the internet, because it is an apt description and comparison.

I don't have a windlass, so I cannot speak to those experiences.

But please know that, from one jerk to any others , I don't think it ever meant what you may be interpreting into it. Indeed, jerking an anchor set isn't good.

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by TheThunderbird

I drop along Boatman practice

I look for an elastic reaction from my all chain rode (motoring mildly backwards), no jerk desireable. (Suspicious!)

I use snubber only under sustained winds, the anchor already set.

Jim&Cate, why paying snubber 2-3 times? I dont get it right.. :-)

My practice is to power down the chain until aboout 2:1 scope is out while drifting with the wind or with idle reverse (folding prop, so not much acceleration!). Stop windlass. As the slack comes out and the catenary lifts, absorbing much of the energy of the drifting boat, there is a palpable tug (nicer than a jerk), and yes, it is absorbed by the windlass. Let out more chain, down to around 3 or 4:1. Stop windlass, repeating the tug when the catenary comes out. Veer more chain, out to whatever final scope I've decided upon. Stop windlass, hook on snubber, veer enough chain to provide a stretch loop. Signal Ann to set the hook with t he engine. Hoist anchor ball. Retire to cockpit.

IMO, the three gentle tugs help keep the chain straight, begin the setting process for the anchor, and give an early warning if they do not seem to be there... a possible sign of some setting problem.

We've lived primarily at anchor for a long time,and this system has evolved from lots of anchorings, and gradual improvements in our tackle. Works for us, won't argue with others who do it some other way.

Jim

[savoir]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

My take is that when there is a jerk involved, he likely doesn't set the anchor at all!

Jim

Gollygosh !

I'm going to have to get some new material.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by Suijin

Whut???

A few of us did, and regardless I think it's a pretty suspect leap of logic to conclude that where there is no mention, there is no use.

I always use a snubber. My chain is never directly loading the windlass, unless the snubber breaks or comes off the rode. If conditions merit it, I'll rig a back-up snubber too.

I have a $5k windlass. I'm not going to subject it to shock loads it was not designed for, ever, if I can avoid it. Split gypsies, glazed clutches, broken gears, etc. It's just not a good idea.

Not leap. A mistake. I did not read carefully. About 1/3 that reported a "jerk" mentioned a snubber or similar, and of course, some are using rope. But my impression remains that quite a few just let it bump on the windlass. Far more than half in the real world.

[sailorboy1]

[QUOTE=thinwater;2338736 But my impression remains that quite a few just let it bump on the windlass. Far more than half in the real world.[/QUOTE]


Which probably means that regardless of what people write on forums, a windlass can and should be able to handle this little anchor setting "jerk".

[jkleins]

Originally Posted by sailorboy1

Which probably means that regardless of what people write on forums, a windlass can and should be able to handle this little anchor setting "jerk".

Have to agree here. My windlass gets way more pressure/jerk on it from me pulling it up and it being stuck to the bottom then the little bit of pressure from a boat moving backwards at less then a knot.
When the anchor is really buried and you tension it up and then let the boat bob on a wake or chop doesn't it pull on the windlass the same. Not to mention the few times we actually have to motor forward to get the anchor unstuck. Do people actually put the snubber back on to do that? I must really be hard on my windlass because I usually do not. I do put a dyneema strap on the chain to set it but have always questioned why since it seems the clutch plates would slip long before enough force was exerted to damage the mechanism.

Jim

[TheThunderbird]

Kind of you, Jim/Cate
I fully agree..




A final question. I drop my anchor ball all at once with the anchor , and on a fixed length (on its own ligt rope). Quite differently, it looks like you (much better so!) pay it out at the end of your anchoring.

How do you do it, already being say 100'+ downwind your anchor? I m puzzled :-)

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by sailorboy1

Which probably means that regardless of what people write on forums, a windlass can and should be able to handle this little anchor setting "jerk".

Exactly.

• I use a snubber.
• I have a chain lock.
• I don't use the windlass to break out the anchor if there are waves.
• I motor up to the anchor when it is windy.
• I never anchor with the load on the windlass. Never.

But...

• I do use the windlass to pull the boat up to the anchor in light winds.
• I do use the windlass to break the anchor out most of the time.
• I don't always snub the chain before the boat drifts back on it. I try, but it isn't a priority most of the time.

So long as the force will not exceed the rating of the windlass I can't feel too guilty about it.

The bit of using the "jerk" to set the anchor probably depends on the bottom. In sand, you can probably generate more force with no snubber, but I'm not so sure you can do any better than you can at full throttle in reverse and a little time. I guess I'm going to need to test this. In mud I am sure jerking is a mistake. Both testing and soil theory say no.