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Old 14-01-2008, 00:59   #1
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Joining Chain

After providing entertainment to all the regulars in Spring Cove last Saturday I need to increase the length of my anchor chain.

At the moment Boracay has around 12m of 10mm chain terminating in a mooring swivel, a shackle (that does not feed through the chain hole) and a length of silver rope.

The windlass will not get a grip on wet rope but the gypsy seems to work like a charm.

My options in joining more chain on are a galvanised joining link that is hammered into shape or a stainless steel split link.

More chain is going to be either rough or smooth galvanised. I am tempted to go for the rough as it will have more protection.

Should I keep the swivel and what is the best way to join chain together?
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Old 14-01-2008, 02:15   #2
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Ummm, sorry, I don't read where the "swivel" comes into it. But anyway, yes the best thing to use is the Galv joining link. Don't use SST between two galv items. Not good. Those hammer together links work well, even if they do seemingly have to take some faith to trust in them, they are trustworthy.
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Old 14-01-2008, 03:11   #3
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I had a galv hammer join on my old boat for years. At first I used to think about it in a blow but after a short while never gave it another thought.

I agree that they are pretty good.
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Old 23-01-2008, 23:21   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boracay View Post
After providing entertainment to all the regulars in Spring Cove last Saturday I need to increase the length of my anchor chain.

At the moment Boracay has around 12m of 10mm chain terminating in a mooring swivel, a shackle (that does not feed through the chain hole) and a length of silver rope.

The windlass will not get a grip on wet rope but the gypsy seems to work like a charm.
No wonder. NO ONE recommends the use of polyprop on anchor winches (or in anchoring systems at all) and Silver is polyprops evil cousin. Slippery as a politician in election year, just don't go there. Bloody Aussies and their love of crap like Silver, never have been able to understand that.

Quote:
My options in joining more chain on are a galvanised joining link that is hammered into shape or a stainless steel split link.

More chain is going to be either rough or smooth galvanised. I am tempted to go for the rough as it will have more protection.

Should I keep the swivel and what is the best way to join chain together?
No SS joining link, there are none we have seen we would regard as reliable. Use a galv one. If it does NOT have 'Crosby' or 'CM' on it, both along with some other number/letters DON"T USE IT. Those 2 good ones I've mentioned are available in Aussie, you may have to hunt around a bit. 'CM' is Columbus Mckinnion (dodgy spelling warning), a good outfit.

I'm also confused by the swivel comment.
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Old 24-01-2008, 02:21   #5
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Swivel, anchor rope and joining link...

GMac
The PO put a small galvanised mooring swivel between the chain and the rope. I'm tempted to throw it away but is it necessary?

What anchor rope would you recommend?

I doubt if the readily available joining links have any makers stamp. I will look, and make a few phone calls.
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Old 24-01-2008, 03:50   #6
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No wonder. NO ONE recommends the use of polyprop on anchor winches (or in anchoring systems at all) and Silver is polyprops evil cousin. Slippery as a politician in election year, just don't go there. Bloody Aussies and their love of crap like Silver, never have been able to understand that...
Is “Silver Rope ” a POLYETHYLENE product?
Polyethylene (PE) floating rope, is somewhat like polypropylene (PP), but slightly heavier. It’s (PE) not quite as strong (as PP), size for size, but has better abrasion resistance.
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Old 24-01-2008, 05:48   #7
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Originally Posted by Boracay View Post
At the moment Boracay has around 12m of 10mm chain terminating in a mooring swivel, a shackle (that does not feed through the chain hole) and a length of silver rope.

Move the shackle and swivel to the anchor end of the chain and splice the line directly to the chain then everything that needs to will fit through the hawse pipe.
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Old 24-01-2008, 11:47   #8
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GMac
The PO put a small galvanised mooring swivel between the chain and the rope. I'm tempted to throw it away but is it necessary?
Not there it's not. Lose it I'd say.

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What anchor rope would you recommend?
A nice nylon or polyester. 16, 18 or 20mm are the usual matches to 10mm chain. If you have an auto rope to chain winch use nylon. 3 strand is fine. If you want an 8 braid (octiplait, Brait) speak to Maxwell in Brizzy, they have some over there.

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I doubt if the readily available joining links have any makers stamp. I will look, and make a few phone calls.
No stamps = don't use. Try more 'industrial' type suppliers rather than marine maybe. They'll be there somewhere.
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Old 24-01-2008, 12:08   #9
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Throw the swivel away.
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Old 24-01-2008, 13:21   #10
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Throw the swivel away.
Throw it my way, please.
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Old 21-04-2011, 15:26   #11
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Re: Joining chain...

Sorry this is am old thread but does any one have experience of the Seafit Connecting link AK West Marine
SEAFIT Link at West Marine
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Old 22-04-2011, 15:52   #12
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Re: Joining Chain

Take a look at this link concerning chain connectors. I personally would not be too happy with those connector links, but if I was to use one it would only be from a name-brand company.

Something like this Crosby twin clevis link would be as strong or stronger. Seems like it might be the answer if they were available in galvanized.
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Old 22-04-2011, 16:37   #13
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Re: Joining Chain

Crosby clevis pin is good
http://www.thecrosbygroup.com/html/e...df/pgs/222.pdf

What is the breaking strain of your chain?

Connecting Link, 316 Stainless Steel, Precision Cast & Forged


316 Stainless Steel, Precision Cast & Forged

An easy way of attaching two pieces of chain together permanently. The two pieces of the connecting link are piened together. The resulting connection is as strong as our standard stainless steel chain of the same size. For added strength select the Forged Connecting Link (S0660 series below). For added strength still, see our Stainless Hammerlocks.

Item Number Size A B C WLL WT Misc. Price Qty
S0460-0005 3/16 0.20 0.70 0.35 400 0.03 Cast $5.44
S0460-0006 1/4 0.24 0.84 0.43 600 0.04 Cast $6.10
S0460-0008 5/16 0.32 0.95 0.48 1000 0.09 Cast $8.51
S0460-0010 3/8 0.40 1.15 0.60 1500 0.14 Cast $10.97
S0460-0013 1/2 0.50 1.45 0.75 2000 0.28 Cast $16.92
S0460-0016 5/8 0.60 1.90 0.95 4000 0.57 Cast $28.61
S0660-0007 1/4 0.25 0.87 0.42 1400 0.07 Forged $12.51
S0660-0008 5/16 0.31 1.00 0.50 2000 0.12 Forged $21.95
S0660-0010 3/8 0.38 2.12 1.12 2800 0.18 Forged $31.27
To order: Enter a quantity to the right of the item and hit "Buy" at the bottom.

All values are shown in inches (or as noted above), except for WLL and WT that are in pounds.
No Hassle Guarantee & Lifetime Warranty


Take your pick

I have one joining to 2 x 30 metres 3/8 galvanised chains smooth chain we have been going through 6 7 10BF in a very unfriendly harbour all winter, I have have been using it since 2006. Bought in Lefkadas for about 13 euros was not forged.

Dont knock it till you have tried it. You may not be happy at the thought of it but do you know of anyone who has used a link and lost their chain and anchor?

I don't think so or you would have mentioned it and if they did what was the material etc this is almost like the thread on Manson and Rocna, LOL
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Old 25-04-2011, 17:56   #14
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Re: Joining Chain

Throw the link away. Not my way PLS.

Get longer, one piece chain. Or else use shackle to shackle connection - problematic to get over the winch as it is.

Do I read it right you have only 12 meters chain on this big boat of yours?

We have 20 meters on a 26 footer. 20 more in the locker, ready to shackle on if necessary.

b.
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Old 25-04-2011, 18:20   #15
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Re: Joining Chain

The problem is none of them go through the electric windlass...
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