Is there a Quality Anchor Swivel?

[noelex 77]

There is a good test of swivels here.

Connectors

If you are going to use a swivel make it a good quality one (kong have a good reputation) and put a few links of chain between the swivel and anchor to reduce the side load.

For most installations they are unnecessary . I simply use a galvanised rated lifting shackle. To make it snag free I cut off the flattened end of the shackle pin, leaving a small rounded bump that I drill to accept a Monel mousing wire. 1/2 inch for my 10mm G7 (3/8 inch) chain.
When you order chain some larger end links are helpful in fitting a larger shackle if it is high test.
There are some high test shackles available.
Wichard make some titanium shackles if you can find them.

[Lagoon4us]

Side loads are the downfall of any connection hence the short chain helps tremendously.

Stainless shackles will out perform galvanised any day provided they are of quality.

We sleep well with our choice only tested it in 1metre chop and 65 knots however the nylon bridle helps lots.

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by Lagoon4us

Stainless shackles will out perform galvanised any day provided they are of quality.
.

Why?

Galvanised shackles eliminate the problem of galvanic corrosion on the anchor and chain. They arev also less prone to crevice and stress corrosion.
High test galvanised shackles are considerably stronger than their SS equivalents. Importantly they are available in well made and tested lifting rated models.
They can corrode, but the the corrosion is very obvious.

SS shackles are certainly perfectly usable, providing a size can be used where the strength is adequate, and well made products like the Whichard forged shackles are used. However given the choice galvanised shackles are better IMHO.

[Lagoon4us]

We run 13mm short link the chain is the weakest link and the boat is not capable of breaking that chain we sleep well.

No quality stainless will fail if sized accordingly for the purpose and if maintained, our choice.

Cheers

[Lagoon4us]

Lol i just read your link and it is noted to the right of some tested/failed shackles. "Shackles failed in a variety of ways, dependent upon many factors. Coloured shackles intended for hoisting applications were no stronger than other types and variable. Stainless steel shackles were consistently stronger than galvanised steel ones."

Anyway 'tis most important to size and use quality gear not cheap crap.

Cheers

[sailorboy1]

I use a Kong swivel. But I don't have it connected directly to the anchor and have a schakel between the anchor and the swivel so it wouldn't end up with a side load.

The main I use it is so the anchor can spin and untwist the chain on the way up.

[noelex 77]

The advantage of lifting rated shackles is that the quality control and testing is much higher so they is little chance of manufacturing fault.
Lifting shackles are also available in hi test, or alloy forged models. These are stronger than the alternatives available in SS.


One difficulty with some set ups, is the shackle often ends up being the weakest link in the system. For a very small additional cost its possible to use a shackle with the same (or higher) strength if you use one of the hi test galvanised shackles.

A lot depends on the type of chain you have (G30, G40 or G70), whether or not it has larger links on the end etc, but its sensible to do some research to ensure you are not reducing the strength.
There is little point using 13mm chain with a shackle that only has the strength of 10mm chain.

[Cotemar]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

I simply use a galvanised rated lifting shackle. To make it snag free I cut off the flattened end of the shackle pin, leaving a small rounded bump that I drill to accept a Monel mousing wire. 1/2 inch for my 10mm G7 (3/8 inch) chain.
When you order chain some larger end links are helpful in fitting a larger shackle if it is high test.
There are some high test shackles available.
Wichard make some titanium shackles if you can find them.

I do the same exact thing on my Crosby 209A shackels. I always use the Crosby 209A, because they have double the WLL rating for just a few dollars more. After its all cut and drilled their is still room to put a wrench on it to tighten. They are one of the few shackles on the market that mark the size and the WLL rating into there shackle so you always Know what you have even years later.

[RabidRabbit]

I use a galvanized swivels and think by oversizing it severals times the size of chain theres no chance of it breaking. 3/4" swivel (about 8" long) on 3/8" chain. Its got a low cost to begin with ($25) so I could change it yearly and not worry. I have several for my 3 anchor rodes and none seem to have any wear. If you go down to a 3/8" galv swivel they tend to look smallish and weak. Most fancy stainless swivels that are mated correctly to chain size tend to look small and abit weak, but mainly overpriced.

[noelex 77]

Thanks for the diagram Cotemar that's exactly what I do.
I cannot take a photo at the moment because its on the bottom under a couple of feet of sand.

[Sandero]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

There is a good test of swivels here.

Connectors

If you are going to use a swivel make it a good quality one (kong have a good reputation) and put a few links of chain between the swivel and anchor to reduce the side load.

.

Both sides are load sides... you have an odd conception of structures in tension.

[sailorboy1]

Originally Posted by defjef

Both sides are load sides... you have an odd conception of structures in tension.

I understood what he said and will stick up for him. He didn't say anything about tension, he is talking about letting the swivel be able to turn instead of it being tight on the anchor resulting in a side bending moment that pries open the swivel.

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by defjef

Both sides are load sides... you have an odd conception of structures in tension.

I think you are misunderstanding the purpose of the chain links. The jaws of the swivels are vulnerable to side loadings. Spreading of the jaws is the most common failure mechanism.

If the swivel is directly connected to the anchor the load path may be a right angles when the anchor is resetting. A few chain links between the anchor and swivel eliminates this side loading on the jaws.
Some of the better swivels do test and publish side loading strength ratings. This may be adequate depending on the size of the swivel used etc, but often it is not high enough, or the appropriate value is not published.

[kthoennes]

Yep, he said side load, not load side. Sideways yank on the anchor in other words.

[Cotemar]

Originally Posted by Don Lucas

I use a Kong swivel. But I don't have it connected directly to the anchor and have a schakel between the anchor and the swivel so it wouldn't end up with a side load.

The main I use it is so the anchor can spin and untwist the chain on the way up.

May look something like this.

"Popular "bullet" style in-line swivel, separated from the anchor by a few links of chain in order to ensure that forces applied can only ever be along the axis of rotation."