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Old 15-02-2018, 10:06   #46
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Re: Ideal windlass issue

Way to go MH!
I refuse to throw out good stuff that's repairable. I hate this disposable world we live in, just buy another attitude.
Obviously we must contemplate all the options. I just like taking things apart and find satisfaction in making it work again, sometimes better.
Cheers to ya,
Chris
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Old 06-03-2018, 19:55   #47
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Re: Ideal windlass issue

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All parts back and ready to reinstall. You can see in the pic of the old main drive, that the gears had been stripped and this was my problem
Chroming cost $500 aud, and will look fantastic back on the deck, Iíll have to clean up the anchor and chain now too!
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Old 06-03-2018, 19:58   #48
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Re: Ideal windlass issue

Also, the main gear that came from Schaefer was 1/8 inch too big, so it required a bit of machining to get it to fit, was a fiddley job as after getting it to fit, the worm drive was in not aligned properly!!
Nothing a couple of more hours couldnít fix
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Old 07-03-2018, 03:34   #49
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Ideal windlass issue

Nice chrome . We did ours as well but left the deck plate , I just cleaned it/polished it and put few coats of 2 part clear on it .

Regards JohnClick image for larger version

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Old 07-03-2018, 05:22   #50
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Re: Ideal windlass issue

Mark,
Was wondering this morning over coffee how things were coming along. Looks great.

Working on my new friction disks today. Purchased different material that was a bit stronger and slightly thicker (to bury the screw heads deeper) than the ones supplied by Schaefer.

Also glad I have access to a machine shop for my new disks. Even the "factory" disks I were off a bit and the screws didn't align properly, so w/o the ability for the adjustments, it could be frustrating. Definitely not plug and play parts.

Again great job!

Bill O.
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Old 11-03-2018, 23:35   #51
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Old 11-03-2018, 23:36   #52
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Re: Ideal windlass issue

Finally back in the boat
Job took a good 5 hours to finish.
And best if all it now works and looks fantastic
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Old 12-03-2018, 07:18   #53
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Re: Ideal windlass issue

Mark,
Again looks good. Your pics reminded me what a PITA it was to get the shaft and gear box in place.

Rigging the floor jack was a good idea. I had a helper and used the top compression "nut" as a hand hold to help pull the gear box up once the threaded portion protruded through the deck.

Your job does remind me to take my motor off and get it serviced before it goes down. While I've changed the gear oil and lube the above deck parts regularly, I haven't paid any attention to the very critical motor. All the rest of the system is relatively new, but have no idea when the motor was last serviced.

Did install the new friction disk, but haven't tried it yet. The new disk has more surface area (~33%) then the ones supplied by Ideal (black one), is a little thicker to bury the retaining screws deeper and the material is a little firmer so it may not distort as much. As you can see the softer rubbery Ideal disk (eventually after a couple years of use), started distort and tear around the retaining screws. Even with the larger gear box (V4C), we are pushing the limit for the anchor size (40kg Rocna). While we motor up to release the dug in anchor, sometimes we also pull up heavy mud and larger branches/small logs. I expect with the added mud, etc, at times we are attempting to pull up ~>50kg, putting additional stress on the rubbery Ideal friction disk.

The other problem I had with the newer Ideal friction disk is they sent me a predrilled disk (for the retaining screws), but they didn't line up. When Cliff still ran Ideal, the predrilled holes aligned well. They (now Schaefer) did send me an undrilled disk, which I had to drill and align the 8 countersunk #6 screw holes. The rubbery disk wanted to move slightly when using the cork borer to put in the initial holes and if one was not careful, the movement of the material could cause the misalignment of the small holes.

The new friction disk material is denser and could be drilled using normal mill bits. Hoping the friction coefficient of ~0.60 is up for the task. If not I'll go back to the Ideal friction disk (probably has a higher coefficient) and attempt to adhere the disk with an adhesive to help avoid tear/elongation of the material around the retaining screws.

I'll let you know how the field tests work.

Bill O.
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Old 12-03-2018, 07:27   #54
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Re: Ideal windlass issue

Nice job, windlass looks great !!

Regards John.
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Old 13-03-2018, 00:42   #55
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Re: Ideal windlass issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill O View Post
Mark,
Again looks good. Your pics reminded me what a PITA it was to get the shaft and gear box in place.

Rigging the floor jack was a good idea. I had a helper and used the top compression "nut" as a hand hold to help pull the gear box up once the threaded portion protruded through the deck.

Your job does remind me to take my motor off and get it serviced before it goes down. While I've changed the gear oil and lube the above deck parts regularly, I haven't paid any attention to the very critical motor. All the rest of the system is relatively new, but have no idea when the motor was last serviced.

Did install the new friction disk, but haven't tried it yet. The new disk has more surface area (~33%) then the ones supplied by Ideal (black one), is a little thicker to bury the retaining screws deeper and the material is a little firmer so it may not distort as much. As you can see the softer rubbery Ideal disk (eventually after a couple years of use), started distort and tear around the retaining screws. Even with the larger gear box (V4C), we are pushing the limit for the anchor size (40kg Rocna). While we motor up to release the dug in anchor, sometimes we also pull up heavy mud and larger branches/small logs. I expect with the added mud, etc, at times we are attempting to pull up ~>50kg, putting additional stress on the rubbery Ideal friction disk.

The other problem I had with the newer Ideal friction disk is they sent me a predrilled disk (for the retaining screws), but they didn't line up. When Cliff still ran Ideal, the predrilled holes aligned well. They (now Schaefer) did send me an undrilled disk, which I had to drill and align the 8 countersunk #6 screw holes. The rubbery disk wanted to move slightly when using the cork borer to put in the initial holes and if one was not careful, the movement of the material could cause the misalignment of the small holes.

The new friction disk material is denser and could be drilled using normal mill bits. Hoping the friction coefficient of ~0.60 is up for the task. If not I'll go back to the Ideal friction disk (probably has a higher coefficient) and attempt to adhere the disk with an adhesive to help avoid tear/elongation of the material around the retaining screws.

I'll let you know how the field tests work.

Bill O.


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Bill O, the shop that did the chroming for me actually put a new friction disc on. I donít think they are anything you need to order from Schaefer, they look like clutch plate material.

Also to save boredom, I didnít show the full extent of the jacking, of which there were 2 jacks and many bits of wood.
I made the job hard for myself as I preinstalled the motor and oil too

Rgds
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