Do I need a new gen anchor?

[poiu]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

Same here! I can't even count the number of times I've dragged a CQR anchor. I got used to sleeping with one eye open -- my psyche has been permanently damaged () by that horrible device. I've never dragged a Spade in more than a decade of use on two different boats. Not once!

I don't feel bad about telling you bluntly that your anchor is inferior kit, since you own my dream boat -- the Holman & Pye Oyster 66 -- floating sex!

I think I've bottomed the dragging thing. I'm really nasty with it until it sets. Your recommendation noted though, thanks.


The H&P did the 55 the 61 and 68. Mine has the Caribbean tush by Rob Humphreys. The local guys love that sort of shape. Can't comment about floating sex though.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by poiu

The H&P did the 55 the 61 and 68. Mine has the Caribbean tush by Rob Humphreys. The local guys love that sort of shape. Can't comment about floating sex though.

Oh, right. I was confused with the 68 :sheepishgrin:. So you don't have my dream boat, after all Which is not to say that that's not an awfully nice boat

[Stu Jackson]

How come no one does a "Why do CQR anchors Suck?" topic?

Here's a good start:

Anchors & TEST Results of New Generation Anchors EXCELLENT & Important

If the AREA of the anchor that's supposed to dig in is HALF that of the new gen anchors, why would you trust your boat and your ability to sleep to anything else.

Geez...

[Dhillen]

Originally Posted by poiu

That's a massive improvement in setting first time, which is really nice. Never coming unstuck is essential.

I looked at the Spade and made a model and whilst the absence of the roll bar is good, it doesn't sit on the rollers neatly. Would need extra weldments and tying down.

Poiu,

Looking at some pictures of sisterships of your gorgeous boat it seems as if your bow is similar to mine. I too made a model of the Spade out of cardboard and stuck it on the boat. It did not fit very well but casting caution to the winds (ANYTHING would be better than an old CQR!) I ordered the anchor anyway. Sighs of relief and popping of corks when it fit!

I keep the chain from anchor to windlass bar tight so no movement is (so far) possible. I am also considering adding a Spectra painter to help maintain tension as a belt and braces approach.

Cheers.

Derek

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by Dhillen

Poiu,

Looking at some pictures of sisterships of your gorgeous boat it seems as if your bow is similar to mine. I too made a model of the Spade out of cardboard and stuck it on the boat. It did not fit very well but casting caution to the winds (ANYTHING would be better than an old CQR!) I ordered the anchor anyway. Sighs of relief and popping of corks when it fit!

I keep the chain from anchor to windlass bar tight so no movement is (so far) possible. I am also considering adding a Spectra painter to help maintain tension as a belt and braces approach.

Cheers.

Derek

A bit of thread drift, but belaying the anchor chain (both to secure the anchor when it's stowed, and to belay the chain when you're anchored) is an important topic.

I have a stainless chain made off to my inner forestay chainplate, with a chain hook on the other end, which I use for this purpose. The addition of something like a Highfield lever to this setup would be just the thing for securing the anchor in the bow roller. I don't think that using the windlass for this is ideal.

[Kashmir cat]

If your bow roller fits a CQR, it should fit a Spade. Both of mine did.

[Therapy]

Spend the money. You won't be sorry.

[poiu]

Originally Posted by Dhillen

Poiu,

Looking at some pictures of sisterships of your gorgeous boat it seems as if your bow is similar to mine. I too made a model of the Spade out of cardboard and stuck it on the boat. It did not fit very well but casting caution to the winds (ANYTHING would be better than an old CQR!) I ordered the anchor anyway. Sighs of relief and popping of corks when it fit!

Derek

Thanks. I tried their big size. I wonder if the smaller one ( still bigger than the CQR) will fit. I'll make a model.

[onestepcsy37]

after 35 years of anchoring with at least 5 different styles of anchors i've now had a manson supreme for the last three years. they will have to pry it from my cold dead fingers before i give it up. far and away the best anchor i've ever owned.

i was actually looking for a spade anchor but they seemed to be totally unavailable in my neck of the woods. not sure about the necessity of the roll bar but the anchor works so well i'm afraid to modify it in the slightest....

[ozskipper]

Originally Posted by poiu

I apologise as I realise I am inviting scorn for having inferior kit. I have a Lewmar CQR 105#.

It is oversized on the Lewmar spec sheet a little for my large 40ton boat.

Once dug in and tested with a good bit of reverse I have never dragged. Getting set is less certain, maybe one in 5 drops requires a re-set.

A change to a new gen anchor is not easy because of fitting issues and conflict with my bowsprit. I could make it work though.

I can see a really good argument for having oversized anchors when you have a 20# anchor as such a light anchor will struggle to penetrate the sand and weed, but with 105# penetrating shouldn't be a problem.

Do I need one?

An anchor is only as good as the scope and the catanery Curve.

If your scope is too short and there is only a short length of chain your catanery will be dismal and the anchor wont set properly

That may be where the answer lies.

[HopCar]

I switched from a CQR to a Delta. Fits my pulpit, self launches, sets fast and hard.
I consider the Delta the first of the new generation anchors. While it looks like a CQR, it's a vast improvement.

[noelex 77]

It is certainly possible to cruise with a CQR anchor, people have done so for many years (including me).

However there are definite improvements in changing to a better anchor. These include much better holding, reliable setting in only a very short distance and the opening up of anchorages that were previously deemed unsuitable, are the other sort of benefits you will find when switching.

A new generation anchor is the best money I have ever spent on the boat and these sort of sentiments are quite common from people that have made the change.

Boat anchors do work a bit better as the anchor gets larger. This scaling effect is dramatic in some anchors like the Bruce, but it is a more minor effect for a CQR. A 105 lb CQR is still a very poor anchor in many substrates.

I would also take the opportunity to increase the size of the anchor. Lewmar recommends very small anchors. Your 105lb anchor for a 66 foot 40 Ton may be oversize on the Lewmar tables, but Rocna would recomend a 121 lb anchor and Mantus between 125 to 175lb. Serious cruising boats often go up on these recommendations. Oyster fit some good heavy duty gear and the anchor winch, bow roller etc should cope with a larger anchor. (But check with other owners)

If a concave roll bar anchor will not fit the Steel Spade is the overwhelming choice, with the SS Ultra also worthy of some consideration.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

Your 105lb anchor for a 66 foot 40 Ton may be oversize on the Lewmar tables, but Rocna would recomend a 121 lb anchor and Mantus between 125 to 175lb. Serious cruising boats often go up on these recommendations. Oyster fit some good heavy duty gear and the anchor winch, bow roller etc should cope with a larger anchor. (But check with other owners)

If your boat displaces 40 tons (!), then 105 pounds is pretty small. My boat is 25 tons, and I was using a 55kg (121 pounds) Rocna (replaced with a 99 pound Spade, which holds notably better). Spade recommend a 165 pound anchor for a boat of your size (Spade Anchor Sizes). That sounds about right to me. Of course, handling 165 pounds of anchor is a fair challenge -- I found 121 pounds to be rather awkward.

[JonJo]

[QUOTE=noelex 77;1475717

If a roll bar anchor will not fit the Steel Spade is the overwhelming choice, with the SS Ultra also worthy of some consideration.[/QUOTE]

Mantus seemed to show that if you remove their roll bar and got the anchor to set (this idea caused some debate) then the roll bar actually reduced performance, the roll bar was needed to set but was a hindrance to developing holding power. I think Mantus said that without the roll bat their anchor set more deeply.

Seems from Mantus background, and maybe Bruce (who patented the roll bar, so 1970s technology, and then did not use it), that an anchor that will set reliably without a roll bar could be better?

No wonder the Spade is, one of, an overwhelming choice (depends on geography and partiality).

Jonathan

[nigel1]

Originally Posted by Dhillen

Poiu,

I keep the chain from anchor to windlass bar tight so no movement is (so far) possible. I am also considering adding a Spectra painter to help maintain tension as a belt and braces approach.

Cheers.

Derek

I'm a firm believer in not keeping the chain between anchor and windlass bar tight. The reason being that the constant tension on the windlass is no good for bearings and bushes. Instead, once I have the anchor on the roller, I use a length of dyneema between anchor and a cleat to keep the anchor secure on the roller. Looking at adding something a senhouse slip in the setup to allow for quick release.