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Old 26-01-2010, 10:22   #1
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Custom Windlass Configuration

Can a windlass be mounted aft of the anchor locker and then allow the rode to pay forward instead of directly down (maybe by hand)?

I am looking at purchasing the Lewmar Pro 1000. But the only place it will fit is aft of the anchor locker. Ideally I will set it up so that the rode runs across the top of the anchor locker, through the windlass gypsy, and then back forward into the anchor locker. I am fine with using my hands to keep the tension and guide the rode into the anchor locker.

Has anyone installed thier windlass this way? Is it possible with the Lewmar Pro 1000?

Thanks,
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Old 26-01-2010, 17:53   #2
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This is possible but not ideal. I have not worked with the exact windlass you mention but from pictures, it looks like you may have to modify the chain stripper but you can make it work. If you can't modify it enough to let the chain pass out from the forward end of the windlass, you can mount it up on a block of wood or something like that to give you the clearance you need. I would recommend finding a local store that has one in stock and laying on the floor and trying different chain leads with it.

Something to keep in mind if you are doing this is that you will have to actively be pulling the chain away from the windlass and that you will be working under the incoming chain.

Another possible option depending on the possible mounting location is to use one of the vertical windlasses. I have seen one mounted where the chain is stripped off at the forward end and goes down the chain pipe right there. I can't find a picture of it but imagine a vertical windlass mounted such that the chain stripper is on the forward end and the chain wraps almost all the way around it.
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Old 26-01-2010, 18:15   #3
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A windlass relies on the mass of the chain and the gravity accelerated to hold the chain against the gypsy. This can be a problem if the drop of the chain is not low enough relative to the gypsy. You then add the requirement of actually getting the chain that falls into the locker. If the drop was far enough it might work. On a 36 ft boat you would need to post a drawing that the chain would follow and dimensions to really say for sure. If you got it wrong the whole thing won't work well at all.

Look at making a raised platform to mount the windlass. You need the vertical drop or the chain will jump the gypsy as it pays in. Going out is the easy part. With a rope rode you have to maintain the tension manually but you will need to stuff it into the locker after it piles up on deck.

I saw a nice drawing where the chain came in aft of the locker. A bearing was place below the hauspipe and the another over the locker. The fall in the locker held the tension well and it worked. With rope I don't see it flowing well at all unless the drop is enough for gravity to pull the rode in.
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Old 26-01-2010, 19:00   #4
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Could you install the windlass in the anchor locker? I am thinking you have one of those deck anchor lockers? I have seen this done and it seemed to work pretty well i am thinking of doing it on my boat

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Old 27-01-2010, 07:12   #5
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Putting the windlass IN the anchor well was my first idea, but there isnt enough room below it to allow the rode to drop.

I called lewmar and they shunned the idea of running the rode back forward. I will look at some other windlasses that can maybe allow this.

My only choice might be building a platform on the anchor hatch to allow the neccessary drop space. I will do some measurements to make sure it will work. I hope it doesnt make the bow look ugly...
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Old 27-01-2010, 08:35   #6
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Consider the alternative of a vertical rather than horizontal windlass. The vertical windlass has the advantage that it doesn't care which side the chain comes in from. They are as strong running in one direction as the other. Accordingly, mounted on the center line, they can service either bow roller. Moreover, a vertical windlass is not very reliant on the weight of the chain to hold the chain into the gypsy. By discharging the chain forward, the chain is in contact with the gypsy for 180º verses 90º on a horizontal axis gypsy.

Given the foregoing, you could fairly easily mount a "shelf" to the aft portion of the chain locker, sufficiently high to accomodate the drive motor between the bottom of the locker and the underside of the shelf. (A simple removable cover can be fabricated to isolate the drive from the rest of the chain locker.)

For example, the Maxwell VW 1000 is the vertical equivalent of the Lewmar you're considering and needs only about 10-11" between the underside of the proposed shelf and the bottom of the locker. The shelf itself could be made of a couple of layers of 1/2" plywood glassed together in place and to the sides and back walls of the chain locker, high enough to allow a fair lead from the bow roller to the chain gypsy when the windlass is mounted. Of course, the back of the locker cover would have to be cut out to allow the gypsy/capstan to protrude, but a cover for the windlass could be fabricated using a plastic bucket as a mold.

We utilized a similar arrangement to the foregoing on our boat and it has worked very well for both bow rollers although one does, occassionally, need to kick the chain pile forward to get it out of the way.

FWIW...
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Old 29-01-2010, 18:51   #7
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What about cutting hatch in 1/2 and glassing front half in and strengthing it and mounting windlass on it I have 34' Irwin with large hatch that goes to within 1' of bow.
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Old 30-01-2010, 15:25   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klem View Post
This is possible but not ideal. I have not worked with the exact windlass you mention but from pictures, it looks like you may have to modify the chain stripper but you can make it work.
I just played around with the Pro 1000 at West Marine. I should be able to adjust the chain stripper to alllow the chain to pass through and feed forward. So this is the method I am going to try. I will post the results.


svHLyte - the anchor locker is only 9 inches deep so there isnt enough room to build a shelf and install a vertical windlass. I think the way i just described will be the easiest solution.

thanks for the help everyone.
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Old 30-01-2010, 16:02   #9
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I bought a boat with this set up. One raise of the anchor convinced me that this is not feasible. You have to pull the chain forward, otherwise it bunches up unde the wildcat. could you run a Hawse pipe at a 45 or 60 thru the v-berth into the chain locker? I know you could. Question to your significant other is ?May I
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Old 30-01-2010, 17:25   #10
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What do you guys think about my idea of cuttung hatch in half and mounting windlass on front half ?That way I can run chain and rode right into locker.I have 34' Irwin and it has a rather substantial locker.
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Old 30-01-2010, 17:53   #11
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Mark (riptide) sorry I did not get back to your pm been a busy day. There is a Irwin 34 a couple of slips down who is a client, I will look at his boat tomorrow and see how it compares. I do not think cutting the hatch is a good idea it would not have the strength to hold a windlass. Even glassed down it would not be strong enough. You could build a metal frame to take the loads to the floor of the anchor locker but I am not sure that that would not be too much work and might end up marginal. I have a hand windlass just forward of the anchor locker on mine but I am not real happy with it. It was done by the PO. I will take some pix tomorrow and look to the 34 and let you know if I have any ideas for you.

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Old 30-01-2010, 18:40   #12
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I cut the locker cover in half on my prevous boat (Morgan 34). Worked fine. I glassed the cover in to the rain gutter, braced it with plywood and glassed in the plywood.

You aren't ever supposed to anchor with the strain on the chain on the windlass, or to overload it by pulling the boat into the wind. Should be OK. if you only use it to retrieve the rode.
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