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Old 24-04-2009, 15:38   #16
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Not to drift too far off....but I was always told to secure the bitter end of the chain to the boat via a long length of floating poly line with a float attached. In the event one must get off the hook in a hurry, let the chain free fall out of the locker, cut the rope with a knife and try to find the anchor again in calmer times. (I guess the only downside is one might foul the prop with the floating line.)
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Old 24-04-2009, 16:38   #17
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Yes. In the case of anchor chains fed out through a hawse pipe, the floating line + float might need to be on deck, as they could not fit through the hole. Which in my case is a downside.

But in doubtful anchoring situations it would be wise risk management to indeed to have at the ready and attach to chain a floating poly line with float, before paying out the anchor.

Thanks!
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Old 24-04-2009, 17:24   #18
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Instead of fixing the end of the sacrificial rope to the boat inside the locker, or wherever, another approach which we use is one can just tie a stainless steel ring on the bitter end of the rope that won't fit up the chain pipe. Of course the chain pipe and the deck have to be strong enough to take the load should the boat's weight come onto the rope but this should be so for the deck if the chain pipe is close to the windlass and the chain pipe metal.

A side benefit is that any twists that get into the chain through removing and replacing the chain on the chain wheel will "spill" off the loose end of the rope by periodically running all the chain out. Regular running out of the chain for its full length will also remove any local "twists" in the chain (those "twists" caused by the chain falling one way then the other but which unravel naturally if the chain is pulled straight even if the bitter end is not free to rotate) and also keep the chain free of white corrosion products which otherwise stop the chain running freely.

Note that the only way twists (as opposed to local "twists") can get into the chain locker is if one takes the chain off the chain wheel for whatever reason then replaces it with a twist - nothing on the anchor side of the chain wheel, including the bow roller, is implicated as twists on that side obviously cannot flow through the chain wheel.

If the chain pipe rises close to the windlass (as is common) it is useful to paint the last couple of meters of chain before the rope white with epoxy primer so one gets a warning that one is just about at the rope. That avoids the embarassment of running the rope out onto the chainwheel (easy to do at night ) and having to recover chain to get it back onto the chainwheel which can be a bit of a mission with heavy chain in deep water (it is a struggle for me to recover 10mm chain by hand if in 20m or more of water). If epoxy primer is used it will last the regalvanising life of the chain.
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Old 24-04-2009, 21:21   #19
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The Bitter End of your Anchor Rode?

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Old 05-07-2009, 20:49   #20
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One thing that helps with anti-twist is a bow roller with a center grove or gypsy roller to keep it from twisting as it's coming in. Like the upper two.

delmarrey, can you tell me where you found these?
I've been looking but only seam to come up with boat trailer rollers in my searches.

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Old 05-07-2009, 22:56   #21
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delmarrey, can you tell me where you found these?
I've been looking but only seam to come up with boat trailer rollers in my searches.

Thanks,
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Sea-Dog - Bow Roller Replacement Wheel
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Old 05-07-2009, 23:13   #22
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I would say Therapy has it right. Pay it all out then wind it in again, the gypsy will remove any twist and you should be OK from then on.
Just as a matter of nautical exactitude, the pipe you are all talking about is the navel pipe, not the hawse pipe. The hawse is a pipe running from the deck to the outside of the hull, used in boats with stockless anchors which self stow in the bow. A modern yacht, which carried her anchors on a bow roller, does not have hawse holes.
On merchant ships the pipe running from the anchor windlass to the chain locker is called a spill pipe. The other pipe running from the anchor windlass to the outside of the hull where the anchor rests is still called the hawse pipe.
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Old 06-07-2009, 06:02   #23
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Seeing that this thread has finally drifted to correct terminology.

The pipe going below deck to the chain locker is a spurling pipe or navel pipe and not a hawse pipe. Most recreational sailboats do not have hawse pipes which is the pipe through the hull to the water in which the stock of the anchor sits when hove home.

As far as attaching the bitter end goes, this should be a piece of line and never a shackle or ring that can't pass through the spurling pipe. In an emergency the line should be able to be cut fairly easily.
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Old 06-07-2009, 08:18   #24
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Thearpy,
Your suggestion of a small rope at the end of the chain reminds me of the time a boat anchored in front of me and backed down over my anchor. Two hours later the boat caught flre! I let out the rest of my 300' of chain and attached a fender to 40' of line, tied that to the end of the chain and cut the line attaching the chain to the boat, then I moved off a safe distance.
Always have spare line and a knife within easy reach!

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