Chain Stopper for 1/4" chain

[CaptainJohn49]

I have a Flicka 20 and use 135' of 1/4" chain together with braided line. I have a manual windless and would like to add a chain stopper. All the good chain stopper from Lewar or Maxwell are 5/16" and up. Can I use a 5/16" stopper with 1/4" chain? I know there are cheap stoppers that work with 1/4" but I want a quality product that's easy to release and who's parts don't fall overboard when you pull a pin to release the chain.

Thanks for any ideas. Ideal lists a 1/4" but there are no plans to produce any in the near future.

[double u]

https://www.anchorliftdirect.com/anc...chain-stopper/

[svHyLyte]

In addition to the above, see also "Lewmar Anchor Lock"

[Briney Bug]

If a "metal" chain stopper is not an option, an alternative, and one that we use, is a "soft" stopper- just a short length of line, the bitter end belayed to something strongly attached, maybe around the base of the windlass, and the working end roller hitched to the rode. We use ours when setting or breaking out the anchor. It also doubles to secure the anchor when the anchor is housed on the roller.

[groundtackle]

BrineyB, I agree. Nice to always have around in case. I like chain hook on a string laying around that area too.
Now being a metal guy I've laid a few weld beads on the inside surfaces of chain stoppers. or modified them to fit better. Even on high end stuff there can be fit issues or if they have worn, bent. Same goes with chain gypsys or sprockets. Make it work for better for yourself.
Chris

[CaptainJohn49]

The problem I have with the Lewmar anchor lock is complaints about loosing parts overboard when releasing the chain. I may have to use this and modify it to fit.
Thanks

[svHyLyte]

Originally Posted by CaptainJohn49

The problem I have with the Lewmar anchor lock is complaints about loosing parts overboard when releasing the chain. I may have to use this and modify it to fit.
Thanks

We use this fitting for 3/8" anchor chain. When deploying the rode, it is sometime easiest to pull the pin and remove the lock. The lock has a small hole in the lower corner of it's face so that one can attach a small tether to avoid it's loss (we did). Likewise, we have a small tether attached to the ring on the pin to avoid its loss. The arrangement has worked for us for 15 years without issues.

FWIW...

PS: The link in my earlier comment doesn't seem to work properly. It was intended to link to Defender's page on the item at Defender.com

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by svHyLyte

We use this fitting for 3/8" anchor chain. When deploying the rode, it is sometime easiest to pull the pin and remove the lock. The lock has a small hole in the lower corner of it's face so that one can attach a small tether to avoid it's loss (we did). Likewise, we have a small tether attached to the ring on the pin to avoid its loss. The arrangement has worked for us for 15 years without issues.

FWIW...

PS: The link in my earlier comment doesn't seem to work properly. It was intended to link to Defender's page on the item at Defender.com

I do the same but the tether is vinyl covered SS wire with nicopressed ends. It also includes the pin so nothing can get lost.

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by groundtackle

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I like chain hook on a string laying around that area too. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

That's what I use on our 1/4" chain, tied off to a deck cleat.

[Locquatious]

Get a chain hook with a hole in the other end. Put in a loop of rope that is spiced end to end. Make the loop long enough to grab onto a cleat, windlass drum, or samson post.

[Jimmy Disch]

Call tech support at LEWMAR. The guy has been massively helpful to me!

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by Locquatious

Get a chain hook with a hole in the other end. Put in a loop of rope that is spiced end to end. Make the loop long enough to grab onto a cleat, windlass drum, or samson post.

A connection like this to take the load off the windlass can be very useful, but it is not the same as a chain stopper. The latter acts as a one way clutch.

The other option that can be useful is a "devil's claw". These are most commonly added to chain stoppers and are used to tighten the anchor and take the load off the windlass when the anchor is retrieved.

[groundtackle]

I like Lacuatious's idea as its very fast to deploy. All I'd need to do is put an a big eye in the end of my hooks string, done.
I personally prefer a properly fitted/ rated chain hook if my intentions are to load it. Situations like that might be when buying time while rigging the snubber or removing a stuck anchor. If whatever you use isn't engineered to fit the chain properly you can do chain damage that is very hard to detect.
Taking the claw out of the stopper when deploying chain is a hassle. pins and pieces and strings at night, cold hands.. I found the same thing on a few stopper installs I'd done where the gate 'should' sit in the open position when deploying but one kiss of the chain would flip that gate closed while I'm trying look like a rockstar anchoring professional. grrrr.
The mistake or change when installing a stopper is to mount them to low. Watch the chain on the way out and you will see that chain jump a lilttle (or alot). Mount that stopper just out of reach of that jump. So then you say it won't grab the chain when you need it to? That's where I have a little hardwood wedge on a lanyard I just slip under the chain to force the chain up and into that stopper. Obviously, mounting a stopper too high brings other loading mounting concerns, all it takes is wee bit more height.

Noelex, I'm not sure these folks are talking about securing the anchor for passage at the moment, but that's another huge topic...
Chris

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by groundtackle

I personally prefer a properly fitted/ rated chain hook if my intentions are to load it. Situations like that might be when buying time while rigging the snubber or removing a stuck anchor.

With a stuck anchor the best equipment depends on how you want to load the anchor.
If you you want to use the main engine, either a chain stopper or a chain hook (or soft shackle) on the end of a short lanyard work equally well.

However, there is limit to how much force the main engine can supply even if you use some momentum. If the anchor is really stuck under a rock or old mooring, you can apply more force if there is any swell or wave action with a chain stopper. Because the chain stopper works as a one way clutch, the windlass can be used to retrieve a few links of chain as the bow drops down. As the bow rises again the stopper will lock so there is little load on the windlass (if you adjust the clutch correctly), but the chain is held tight. The buoyancy and momentum of the bow can exert a very high force.

You need to be very careful. There is no stretch in the system and the forces can be very high, but it can be a useful technique providing the chain stopper (and everything else) is bolted down securely. In practice, as each few links of chain are retrieved the force will rise so you do have some opportunity to increase the force in a progressive manner and bail out before something breaks.

Fortunately such situations are very rare, but a chain stopper is a great tool for freeing a really stuck anchor.

A chain stopper also helps reduce the load on the windlass when retrieving an anchor that is not stuck, just set deeply. Modern anchors take a reasonable force over a long time to break out and even when primarily using the main engine (as you should do) the reality is that the windlass often ends up taking up some load. It is not practical to continually move and reattach a chain hook multiple times as each bit of chain is retrieved, but a chain stopper does this automatically.

However, there are some drawbacks to chain stoppers. They require a reasonable amount of foredeck room to install and the forces on the deck itself can be very high. They are not the easiest things to fit on most boats. Also, if left engaged all the time I think they do have an effect of wearing the galvanising on the chain.

[groundtackle]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

With a stuck anchor the best equipment depends on how you want to load the anchor.
If you you want to use the main engine, either a chain stopper or a chain hook (or soft shackle) on the end of a short lanyard work equally well.

However, there is limit to how much force the main engine can supply even if you use some momentum. If the anchor is really stuck under a rock or old mooring, you can apply more force if there is any swell or wave action with a chain stopper. Because the chain stopper works as a one way clutch, the windlass can be used to retrieve a few links of chain as the bow drops down. As the bow rises again the stopper will lock so there is little load on the windlass (if you adjust the clutch correctly), but the chain is held tight. The buoyancy and momentum of the bow can exert a very high force.

You need to be very careful. There is no stretch in the system and the forces can be very high, but it can be a useful technique providing the chain stopper (and everything else) is bolted down securely. In practice, as each few links of chain are retrieved the force will rise so you do have some opportunity to increase the force in a progressive manner and bail out before something breaks.

Fortunately such situations are very rare, but a chain stopper is a great tool for freeing a really stuck anchor.

A chain stopper also helps reduce the load on the windlass when retrieving an anchor that is not stuck, just set deeply. Modern anchors take a reasonable force over a long time to break out and even when primarily using the main engine (as you should do) the reality is that the windlass often ends up taking up some load. It is not practical to continually move and reattach a chain hook multiple times as each bit of chain is retrieved, but a chain stopper does this automatically.

However, there are some drawbacks to chain stoppers. They require a reasonable amount of foredeck room to install and the forces on the deck itself can be very high. They are not the easiest things to fit on most boats. Also, if left engaged all the time I think they do have an effect of wearing the galvanising on the chain.

Noelex, all valid points however....under certain conditions I feel your method to be an extremely dangerous practice with potentially catastrophic results.
I had one of those times. I was up in Glacier Bay running a guys nice older Swan 53', heavy vessel. It blew hard for a day off the glacier and buried the CQR into what I imagined to be 15' of soft terminal moraine, stuff is like flour. I tried for hours to get that sucker out. There is no way I would power around on a very strong properly mounted chain stopper with speed on, I'd break something or bend a link for sure. Ultimately I wanted all my rode and anchor back. I attached the rated chain hook with a Dyneema strop and at low tide took all the slack up and waited. 28' tide that day. As the flood came the bow went down, and down. Prop tips were a foot below the surface, kinda scary really. The owner and guests were spooked. I sat well back with a knife taped to a boat hook ready to cut that line. Eventually the anchor released and bow went skyward, launched the owner off his feet. He was peering over the bow rail at the time. Pretty exciting.
If you had that chain into a stopper you are screwed, how could you release yourself from this worsening situation until something broke or what, cut the chain, sink the boat? I can't imagine. Lucky there wasn't swell that day. There was some ice calving that sends swell thru the bay but didn't occur during this time period. I would have needed to put everyone in the dingy and watch safely from a distance. We couldn't go to shore that day as the grizzly bears were hungry.
I agree stoppers are a valuable tool to be used under the correct conditions.
Cheers, Chris