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Old 15-04-2008, 06:30   #31
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Hey Sluissa, I'm sure the new anchor will be just fine but keep us updated with how well she's held after a good blow.

The original spec was a 21lb Thames with 90' 1/4" chain but what you've got will probably hold better lb for lb.

For interest, the pic below is the bow setup from another K20+:
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Old 15-04-2008, 09:46   #32
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Funny you should ask, we just had a decent little blow here. Weather reports only show about 10-15 with gusts up to the mid 20s, but it was out of the north, and where the boat is, that means a good 2 mile fetch of clear bay that the wind has to pick up over.

I'd guess average was closer to 20, with gusts even higher than that. The little anchor held fine. I could not even tell if it did drag a few feet. I put out more chain last time I anchored. I think I've got closer to 30-40 feet out now.(I really need to figure out what measurement those paint marks on the chain actually are)

I know we've had worse weather than this though, and the anchor hasn't ever dragged more than just a few feet.

I can't figure out what a "Thames" anchor is. is it like that picture and a type of plow anchor?
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Old 15-04-2008, 12:22   #33
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I suppose it's a bit like a small version of what you see on a merchant ship.

In production for over 80 years and marketed on it's versatility, holding power and ease of stowage, the following picture is a 14lb 'Thames' from a chandlers catalogue (ouch.. 120).



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Old 15-04-2008, 12:46   #34
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Whilst everyone will have their own thoughts and comfort zones on anchoring, a handy little guide entitled 'The basic rules of a good anchoring system' can be read here:

Anchors, Chain & Accessories: Marinestore Chandlers
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Old 15-04-2008, 13:17   #35
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Thanks, I've seen those before, just never knew they were called Thames anchors. I'm sure they're good, but I'll stick with the danforth considering it's cheap, so far reliable where I'm using it, and already has a bracket mounted on the foredeck.
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Old 15-04-2008, 14:28   #36
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you ask, "Is my anchor junk at this point?
Was it always junk?"

The latter. A danforth for one thing can not handle a 180 wind shift. No problem you say. You don't use it at night while you're asleep? A clam shell or rock or any small piece of anything can cause it to not set at all. They are worthless, except in their designed for role. And that is to hold military landing craft off a beach so they could retreat back to sea. Granted they have great holding IN A STRAIGHT LINE, provided a clam shell doesn't jam the flukes. I use my old danforth to keep my dog from digging under the fence. I now use a 22lb Bruce. Always has set and has never unset in a 180 windshift. Some folks claim they use one as a lunch hook? Why go to all the trouble of setting a 'lunch hook' which I assume is not bow mounted when it's much easier to simply use your main bow roller mounted anchor. And if you don't have a bow roller\, I highly suggest you get one. An anchor is pretty much useless in an emergency if it has to be dug out of a locker in order to be deployed. Ask the couple who lost their boat in a harbor entrance channel because their engine died. And without a roller how to you keep the chain from rubbing away at the gunnel? You reach over the side and pull straight up. A good way to get tossed overboard. With a bow roller i can lead my rode back along the side deck and both launch and retrieve using my genoa sheet winches from the cockpit. A very useful tactic when singlehanding.

good luck with your decision
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Old 15-04-2008, 15:20   #37
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sluissa,

I hope that you used seizing wire on that new shackle. That is the single most important part of any anchoring system. I know that sounds a bit far fetched for a little piece of wire to be so important but most anchoring accidents are caused by the shackle unscrewing because it was not properly seized.
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Old 15-04-2008, 15:46   #38
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rtbates: I have to disagree with you, this danforth has handled wind from every direction without any problems. Maybe you had bad luck with yours or the bottom where you used it is not suited for the danforth, I don't know. It's been absolutely great for me.

Kanani: No, I havn't used seizing wire on it... I need to go out there and do that, I've been thinking about it and it does worry me a little. As soon as this cold front moves through in a couple of days and working on the boat is comfortable again, I'll go out and fix it.
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Old 15-04-2008, 16:57   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sluissa View Post
rtbates: I have to disagree with you, this danforth has handled wind from every direction without any problems. Maybe you had bad luck with yours or the bottom where you used it is not suited for the danforth, I don't know. It's been absolutely great for me.

Kanani: No, I havn't used seizing wire on it... I need to go out there and do that, I've been thinking about it and it does worry me a little. As soon as this cold front moves through in a couple of days and working on the boat is comfortable again, I'll go out and fix it.
sluissa,

rtbates is actually correct about the fluke type anchors. When the wind shifts and the chain crosses over the top of the anchor, it can (and probably will) cause the anchor to pull out, especially if the wind is strong. It is possible for the fluke anchor to reset but it is just as possible for it to get fowled and not reset. As was mentioned, it only takes a clump of mud or a stone and the flukes will point skyward when the anchor flips over.

IMO, the fluke anchors, like Danforths have the best holding power available. The ultimate mooring anchor system is to have 3 fluke anchors set up in a "Y" configuration on the bottom, with about 30' - 100' (depending on depth) of chain hooking each chain to a center swivel. Then run a piece of chain (about one water depth length) to a piece of nylon road with a buoy.

The wind can blow from any direction and no matter how hard it blows, you will not pull out the anchor (much less 3 of them).

I had my Passport 45 on a mooring like that in Hawaii for 3 years. We sat out a hurricane with it. No problem.

With a 20' boat you could use some old used anchors, even the one with the bent shank because you would never get sideways on the anchor so there would be no issue with the weakened shank bending again and breaking. As long as you have a straight pull on the anchor it would be the rare occasion for it to fail.

If you ever replace the anchor again, I would recommend a "high tensile" anchor. The holding is far superior and you will never bend the shank on it.
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Old 15-04-2008, 18:54   #40
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"Is my anchor junk at this point?"
I had bent a larger anchor in a rock jetty some time back and had a welder friend of mine heat it and pound it back into submission and then cool it quickly in water to effectively temper the metal. I have not had problems with it since. After all of that heating and pounding I took a grinder to the anchor, cleaned it up and sprayed it with galvanizing paint. I should also mention that since then, whenever anchoring for a extended period of time I usually set two anchors.
Good luck!
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Old 15-04-2008, 19:10   #41
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By the way, the old anchor is now decorating my grandma's garden.

I'm considering setting up a 3 anchor mooring this summer when I have time and when the water is a little warmer. As an off topic, and I'll start a new thread if I have to, but what are the regulations as far as setting down moorings go? Do I need a permit or something? This area has very little traffic, and I've had nobody complain about my boat being anchored, so I suppose nobody would complain about a small bouy.
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Old 15-04-2008, 19:19   #42
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At least that anchor is being put to good use!

As far as anchoring/mooring: around here (Hilton Head Island, SC) the rules seem a bit foggy. Supposedly you are allowed to anchor (but not put down a mooring) anywhere you like outside of any main waterway channel as long as you have an anchor light lit at night. There is a mooring field here that supposedly requires you to get a DHEC permit but many "pirate" moorings have shown up over time. I would check with the local DNR and City regulations before setting a mooring.
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