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Old 08-03-2008, 11:07   #16
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Since you seem to like the Danforth type design...consider a Fortress.
West sells them.
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Old 08-03-2008, 11:13   #17
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And keep the old one as a spare.

Why would one do that when any time it might be used it is known to be considered "untrusworthy"?
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Old 08-03-2008, 12:41   #18
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'Any port in a storm' theory?
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Old 08-03-2008, 12:46   #19
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Given that a new Fortress FX-11 suitable for a boat between 28 and 32 feet can be had for a tad over $109 USD (see Fortress Marine Anchors (FX-11) isn't debating the chap's old anchor rather a sill use of bandwidth
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Old 08-03-2008, 12:59   #20
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Why would one do that when any time it might be used it is known to be considered "untrusworthy"?
Because he is probably not wealthy enough to buy 2 anchors (a new primary and a 2nd backup up anchor). And if his first anchor takes a **** or if he should lose it somehow at least he can anchor his ass and boat (something is better than nothing).
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Old 08-03-2008, 13:30   #21
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Fortress

You might consider looking at a Fortress anchor.
The 16 pound model is designed for boats from 33 -38 feet.
The 11 pound is for 28 -32 feet.
The holding power of the Fortress per pound is much higher and is documented in many articles. (I don't work for Fortress or Defender).
I would also suggest tying a "back-haul" line to any anchor you use. And with a small fender on the other end - it lets the other would be anchorers in the area know where your anchor is set.

Fortress FX-16 Anchor
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Old 08-03-2008, 14:02   #22
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... I would also suggest tying a "back-haul" line to any anchor you use. And with a small fender on the other end - it lets the other would be anchorers in the area know where your anchor is set.
I too, like the Fortress, tho' would recommend consuming the tremendous weight advantage, by increasing the size.

Buoying your anchor, not only marks it; but also provides a convenient opportunity for others to wrap a line on their prop'.
It's not required in "lonely" anchorages, and a darned nuisance in "busy" ones.
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Old 08-03-2008, 14:38   #23
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I must say...

Lonely anchorages are more and more difficult to find, and busy ones are meant to be avoided. So, perhaps I find myself in the ‘between anchorages. Having a method to pull the anchor “back” out may save you an anchor (or a bent one). If people can’t stay off a fender just a few feet ahead of your boat – then maybe they should stay on the dock.
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Old 08-03-2008, 15:50   #24
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I experimented with a backhaul line after my first mishap, but really, it was absolutely no help in getting the anchor freed and in fact contributed to this most recent dragging event, I think. The backhaul line ended up wrapped around my outboard so the anchor ended up stuck directly under the boat giving practically no hold. (If there had been any amount of wind on the day that I discovered it like that, I don't know where the boat would have ended up. As it was, it was only about 50 feet from where it should have been.)

I would really like to try to find the same size anchor, so I don't have to redo the bracket hardware on the foredeck for a different size. Plus, the size I have now is just on the edge of being annoying to try to maneuver around the forestay and bow rail. Any bigger and it would definitely be a pain. I might eventually look into getting a bigger fortress(those are the ones that can be disassembled, right?) to store below just for storm use.

I do have a secondary anchor I keep under one of the cockpit benches, it's smaller, only about 8 pounds, I think, only has a few feet of chain and mostly rope. I keep it there mostly for use as something like a lunch hook or an "emergency brake".
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Old 09-03-2008, 03:36   #25
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... Having a method to pull the anchor “back” out may save you an anchor (or a bent one). If people can’t stay off a fender just a few feet ahead of your boat – then maybe they should stay on the dock.
The anchor trip line becomes more useful, the deeper the anchor lies (particularly as it gets beyond your comfortable diving depth); consequently placing the buoy proportionally further off the boat’s bow.

It can be difficult to spot a small (unlighted) float, whilst dodging anchored boats, calculating swing circles, searching out a good patch of bottom, and etc.
To do so, in the dark of a boisterous night, may be nearly impossible.

I only rag on this subject to point out the less obvious, but very important, disadvantages of deploying a floated trip line. The advantages are (I think) obvious.

I wouldn’t use one - but then, I have abandoned a fouled anchor (the “No-Name” harbour behind Chub Rk, just South of Powell Point, Eleuthera, for those that can work at ± 40 Ft. Depths).
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Old 09-03-2008, 05:55   #26
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I would really like to try to find the same size anchor, so I don't have to redo the bracket hardware on the foredeck for a different size.
Given it will be a new anchor the shank should be a lot stronger. I would replace the shackle too. They deteriorate faster than the anchor. Going up one size on that isn't a bad idea either.
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Old 09-03-2008, 15:34   #27
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Can't say I'm a fan of buoyed anchors really. There is definitely a time and place when they can be very good but in general day to day stuff I don't think so.

Luckily here no-one does it.
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Old 09-03-2008, 19:28   #28
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"never had a problem with it dragging until I bent the shank and currently the boat stays at anchor 24/7."

Sluissa, Just a speculation here...your boat lying at anchor full time...

With the boat at anchor 2 weeks at a time between uses ...
maybe a mooring would make it easier for you to come and go. Not familiar with
Pensacola's wind and current... but I do know about your severe thunderstorms
and hurricanes...may be better served in the long run with a mooring.
Sounds like your anchor is setting itself (as it should) real deep during the extended
times between uses.
At times we have all wished our anchors held as well as your bent 15 pounder!
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Old 13-03-2008, 15:59   #29
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Okay, update. I went to west marine, bought one of their "Traditional 13" anchors. Actual weight, 15 pounds. It looks almost identical to my old one except shinier and new. And the shank is a lot thicker. However, the flukes are just about a half inch too close to fit into the old bracket. Oh well. I did buy a new shackle there too. However, I didn't notice till I got home there was a big "CHINA" stamped on it and while it feels strong, and is probably oversized for my boat in any case, it still just gives me the impression of cheapness. For some reason I just had a bad feeling about this with everything that's been said, so I just stuck with the old shackle, which didn't say "CHINA" and since it still looked in pretty good condition.

New anchor holding very well. It hasn't had to contend with any major weather yet, but it held against full throttle reverse without any movement.

Thanks for all the help on this subject. Hope I won't need any further help. I'd hate to do something else stupid and need yet another new anchor.
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Old 13-03-2008, 17:44   #30
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Just catching up now that the wife has gone home...

Sounds like everything worked out. Glad to see it. I think it's a good move using the old shackle vs. the new "china" shackle. I tried to do the same a while back on the old boat, but the old shackle refused to open - so I had to cut it.

We use the anchor float in crowded anchorages to "mark our turf" so nobody drops an anchor right on top of ours, and also when there is any suspicion of the bottom being able to snag the anchor in a way we can't break it out.

Right now, I forgot to set the float in Maimi, and I'm nervous I will be stuck on something. Hopefully, luck is on my side.
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