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Old 25-09-2008, 03:31   #16
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...the rest of us prefer 2 legged ladies without woolly coats
The ones with the mink coats are alright tho, especially if they are wealthy enuff to have bought them themselves.

Whoops this is an anchoring forum, so better ask something Mmmmm , ah yes, can anyone tell me if a mink coated woman would likely buy me some Manson Supremes?
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Old 25-09-2008, 18:42   #17
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......
Hey crap... I just noticed your a bloody Aussie. I better not mention the rugby then, ya cheeky bugger
I'm noticed - how sweet and yes, let's forget the rugby .

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....Whoops this is an anchoring forum, so better ask something Mmmmm , ah yes, can anyone tell me if a mink coated woman would likely buy me some Manson Supremes?
Hmm... If she is mink coated, I would be asking for one of shinny stainless ultra thingys....it's the wooly coated ones that use the supremes - isn't it?
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Old 25-09-2008, 22:59   #18
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I couldn't imagine feeling safe without a ton of chain and a monster anchor. If you want to move the weight of the chain aft you can use a chain pipe; they're really not that complicated.

I had a boat break free on a mooring once because of poor ground tackle; never again.
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Old 26-09-2008, 11:22   #19
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When I bought Imagine she had a 35lb knock off CQR. We drug a couple of times, and I bought a 55lb Delta before we left St. Maarten. We stopped dragging, but later I could see the chain was worn in spots.

Since I have a Maxwell windlass I called to see if I could get a larger gypsy. I wanted to go from 5/16 to 3/8 chain. After a very detailed conversation with Maxwell they convinced me that the 5/16 was large enough for my size boat. We have no problems with dragging. Our problem is sometimes getting the anchor up. We have to sit on top of it, and let the boat's motion wiggle it loose.
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Old 27-09-2008, 13:32   #20
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Our problem is sometimes getting the anchor up. We have to sit on top of it, and let the boat's motion wiggle it loose.
A windlass is not designed to pull the anchor free. It is only designed to lift the rode and anchor into the boat. Attempting to any more on the windlass is not healthy for the windlass and causes a serious increase in amperage that should blow the breaker before the windlass starts on fire or the battery cables leading to the windlass glow red hot and start the boat on fire. A heat activated breaker with a reset helps prevent problems while snagging the rode.

When set well in hard mud (like we have all round here) I find I need to pull up all I can and then go forward to use the boat to pull the anchor free by running over the anchor.
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Old 27-09-2008, 14:03   #21
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A windlass is not designed to pull the anchor free. It is only designed to lift the rode and anchor into the boat. Attempting to any more on the windlass is not healthy for the windlass and causes a serious increase in amperage that should blow the breaker before the windlass starts on fire or the battery cables leading to the windlass glow red hot and start the boat on fire. A heat activated breaker with a reset helps prevent problems while snagging the rode.

When set well in hard mud (like we have all round here) I find I need to pull up all I can and then go forward to use the boat to pull the anchor free by running over the anchor.
And to add to that wonderful advice - You also run the risk of sending any big nasty down thru the main shaft and into the gearbox. This can result in a big cheque having to be written for a new not bent shaft or gearbox repair. Snubbers can prevent the same thing when at anchor and snatching on your system.
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