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28-06-2017, 13:45
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Port Townsend, WA
Boat: Tashiba-31
Posts: 480
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Anchor setup
My Tashiba-31 displaces 13,000lbs. It came with a 35-lb CPQ anchor on 210 feet of chain. Chain and anchor appear to be in great shape - only about a dozen links show any rust.
She also came with a Danforth S-920 anchor on 16 ft of chain and 200-ft of 3 strand nylon.
I'm cleaning up the chain - scrubbing the rust off and spraying with zinc spray. Should I do anything to the anchors?
The Danforth is not installed on my winch, it sits in a crate in a cockpit locker.
Is the Danforth strong enough for my boat and why/when would I want to use it.
Thanks!
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28-06-2017, 15:30
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 374
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Re: Anchor setup
I think the danforth could be useful as a stern anchor in case you are in a mooring or situation you would need one. Always good to have a backup. Just remember, danforths are the best anchor for straight line pull, but if the wind shifts or tide shifts. Not so good.
If I were you, I would keep the danforth handy to throw off the stern in a situation you don't want to swing, then get a mantus or rocna or the bow.
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28-06-2017, 17:25
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Up the mast, looking for clean wind.
Boat: Currently Shopping, & Heavily in LUST!
Posts: 5,629
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Re: Anchor setup
On the Danforth, not knowing how much that model weighs, the size of it's flukes, or the grade of steel from which it's made, it's tough to offer opinions as to it's viability in terms of size & strength to handle your boat.
That said, said style of anchor tends to work better in conditions where anchors like Plows, or even new gen. type anchors don't. Like mud, or a thin layer of sand or soil over rock or coral. And on those types of bottoms, generally speaking, the more fluke area the better.
As general inspections go, it's always wise to inspect one's anchor shackles. To ensure that they're strong enough/properly matched to the chain, they're in decent condition, are sufficiently tight (use wrenches for this), & are moused (& or Loctited) shut.
If the shackles are stamped with a WLL & this load rating matches the chain, so long as they're not deformed, or corroded, then odds are they're okay. Though for $20 you could replace all of them with some new, Crosby High Load ones, for peace of mind. And keep the current ones in a drawer as spares.
Also, if you want to get OCD. Find out Exactly what type & size chain you have, & then measure a set number of links. Comparing this measurement to the spec's for said chain, to see if perhaps it's been stretched due to having been highly loaded at some point. This along with inspecting each links for signs of same, as well as cracks/cracked welds, etc. Plus you'll want to add markers to the chain so that you can easily tell how much you've deployed.
It also doesn't hurt to give the anchors a good inspection for signs of the above too. As, for instance, I once "inherited" a CQR with a banana'ish shank. Something which at first glance wasn't easily visible, & that due to the forces needed to do that to an anchor, had me questioning it's overall integrity.
One other thing is that if you like, you could always paint the surfaces of the flukes on your anchors with a high visibility paint color, much like Spade anchors does. So that it's easier to see if your anchor is well buried, when diving on it, or via viewing it with a glass bottom bucket.
EDIT: I'd also consider putting at least a full boat length's worth of chain onto the Danforth's rode (if not more). Perhaps some G43 grade for a more svelte profile, to assist in it's burying. And to make it easier to pull up the anchor by hand, or handle it in the dinghy.
I’d also add a substantial length of rope rode to the CQR’s chain, for when you find yourself in deeper water. And so that should you need to slip the anchor in a hurry, you can cut if free with a knife instead of bolt cutters.
Yep, bolt cutters. As the submerging, bucking foredeck of a boat ain’t an ideal platform for trying to hacksaw chain which is jumping around, & trying it’s best to remove your hands.
Along with this, ensure that the bitter ends of your rodes are well secured to the boat. SIC
__________________
The Uncommon Thing, The Hard Thing, The Important Thing (in Life): Making Promises to Yourself, And Keeping Them.
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28-06-2017, 19:16
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Cruising
Boat: Privilege 39 Catamaran, Exit Only
Posts: 2,723
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Re: Anchor setup
What is adequate depends a great deal on where you are anchoring.
If you know your cruising grounds well, and if you have good weather, you have a great deal of latitude in your choice of anchors and ground tackle.
If you are an ocean cruiser headed for distant shores, then you have to develop an anchor package that is good for all seasons and locations.
I would be comfortable with what you have on your boat unless i was headed outback and beyond.
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28-06-2017, 20:29
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Washington State
Boat: Colvin, Saugeen Witch (Aluminum), 34'
Posts: 2,269
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Re: Anchor setup
DMK,
Many people claim that if the pivot pin and hole become "sloppy", the CQR's ability to set will be compromised.
Here is a close-up of your CQR pivot pin and hole. It appears that some wear has occurred. Perhaps someone with more experience with this condition will chime in.
Steve
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