Anchor chain to rode splice

[StuM]

Originally Posted by thinwater

I tried the same thing and got the reverse result. Many people have reported the same dichotomy. It seems to be windlass-specific.

As I said earlier:

" and how your gypsy handles the different type of join."

[Rogerfern]

Any suggestions or preference on using a thimble?
Thanks

[parkstone bay]

A thimble/shackle set-up is quite simple and seamanlike. But it will almost certainly not run through a windlass, so it is really restricted to a manual system. The great splice debate is dominated by the requirement to run over ("over";or should it be, "through"; or even "round"?) the gypsy. And, has been said before, if it works on your boat, it cannot be too wrong.

[RaymondR]

Originally Posted by parkstone bay

A thimble/shackle set-up is quite simple and seamanlike. But it will almost certainly not run through a windlass, so it is really restricted to a manual system. The great splice debate is dominated by the requirement to run over ("over";or should it be, "through"; or even "round"?) the gypsy. And, has been said before, if it works on your boat, it cannot be too wrong.

You need another vertical roller aft of the gypsy so that you can pull the thimble/shackle past the free wheeling gypsy and when the chain engages in the gypsy lock it.

[kclancy]

Hi All!

This thread made me interested in finding out what kind of knots I am using on my anchor-to-rode connections. I have two anchors, both 13 pounders. One has 30 feet of chain and 200 feet of rope and the other has 10 feet of chain and 100 feet of rope. It turns out that one has a bowline and the other looks like an anchor hitch knot. I don't have a windless (this is just a small Catalina 22).

Do you think that I am fine with the bowline and anchor hitch connecting the rope to the chain? If knot (ha ha), then I will try to splice the line.

Thanks!

[parkstone bay]

If the knots work, (specifically if they run through your handling system ok) there really isn't any need to change things; everything is "handraulic" anyway.
What you might find useful is the system I put on my boat. It's a "slave" length of warp long enough to come from the fixed point deep in the chain locker onto the deck. It's spliced to the fixed point, then tied with a sheet bend to the bitter end of the warp. (And yes, the sheet bend runs through my handling system ok). As the markings for the bitter end come up through the deck, cleat things off, continue pulling through to the "slave", then you can untie the slave, and add more string if necessary. But the advantage is that you don't just let out warp until the whole lot is bar tight, and you've then got to do something in the bowels of the chain locker in the traditional style: you have, in essence, moved the fixed point onto the deck, where it's much easier to get at.

[estarzinger]

To add to what has been discussed above - the windless manufacturers pretty much uniformly recommend the traditional back or crown splices and recommend against the shovel/woven splice. They recommend against the shovel because their experience is if it is less than perfectly evenly tensioned that sometimes chain links will get a little sideways inside the weave and jam in the windless, stalling (or worst case burning out) the motor.

They are all 'strong enough' in straight line load testing.

I have done a bit of cycle testing on the traditional splice and there was very little (essentially unmeasurable) chafe/wear at the link point.

(imho) If you have a powered windless the answer is pretty clear (back/crown). If you hoist by hand then pick whatever pleases you.