For capnrasta and others interested. Photos and explanation of how we lift
our 600 lb RIB
onto the foredeck. Not sure if I've attached this right? Let me know if you can reach the file - the photos don't appear in the "post a thread" screen
[IMG]file:///C:\Users\Steve\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\ clip_image001.png[/IMG]Lifting a heavy RIB onto the foredeck.
We have a Gulfstar
. We considered many options to lift
our heavy RIB onto the foredeck for passage-making. Our goal was to be safe but economical using as much of our organic equipment
as possible. The photo
above is of our vessel in Beaufort
NC with the RIB on the foredeck after passage
up the east Coast
from Tampa. Our final solution is shared here:
Our 10 ft RIB with its driver's console, Yamaha 25HP 4-stroke, Battery
and 10 gal tank weigh in at around 600 lbs.
We have a “seldom used” but beefy aluminum
pole which we engineered some additional "kit" to lift the RIB safely onto the deck
After much experimenting with our problem we recommend two key pieces of equipment
to make this job as easy as possible – keeping in mind that (at a minimum) this could be a 1-person operation (in calm water):
1. Dinghy transom wheels
- important when rolling the RIB into position on deck
(as well as on the beach). Great investment – “Beachmaster” aluminum
, removable, fold-down, pneumatic tires – allows us to position the RIB on deck and then “roll” it into its final resting place on the cradle cushions
. Cost – about $180.00
2. Dinghy deck cradle cushions
- which can be removed and stored when the RIB is in the water
- keeps the deck nice and clear. These are high impact foam “v-shaped” cushions
that “cradle” the RIB on deck and distribute weight. Cost – about $200.00 (but these can certainly be made).[IMG]file:///C:\Users\Steve\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\ clip_image007.jpg[/IMG]
3. 12V ATV 2000lb winch
with a “trailer hitch ball mount plate” and 2 x U-Bolts. Cost – about $130.00.
[IMG]file:///C:\Users\Steve\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\ clip_image009.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]file:///C:\Users\Steve\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\ clip_image011.jpg[/IMG]
: Although we have a heavy-duty set of hydraulic davits
– we will not risk hanging the RIB on the stern off-shore. Our set up is versatile enough to adapt to most sailing vessels of this size. Engineering research
showed us that the “structural” key to the lift operation is the strength of the crane base (spinnaker pole knuckle) where it attaches to the main mast and
the load rating of the topping lift (spare halyard). The length/angle of the spinnaker
pole(crane) is also important (too short makes reach, pole stress and lift angle a problem).
Some custom set up requirements
We replaced our aluminum spinnaker pole "base-swivel" with a custom fabricated stainless steel
knuckle replacement - this is the strength of the system. I actually “bent” the aluminum knuckle on my first lift experiment! Spend the money – stainless is better! (Cost – about $700.00)
We use 9/16 double-braid on the spinnaker topping lift (spare halyard) and on the lifting line.
Here's how we lift her on deck
- I have done this alone…but we advise 2 people for a safe operation:
Step 1: Set up the deck, tools and dinghy
[IMG]file:///C:\Users\Steve\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\ clip_image015.jpg[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:\Users\Steve\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\ clip_image017.jpg[/IMG]
Step 2: Extend and rig the spinnaker pole for lifting (from here on we refer to the spinnaker pole as the “crane”).
a. Rig the base end of the crane with the 12V 2000 lb winch
. We use an ATV winch purchased at Tractor Supply for about $130.00. Our current
winch has a steel
cable – which we prefer not to turn through a block (more explanation later). We wanted the winch to be “removable” so that we could restore the spinnaker pole to its stowed position against the mast
and use the winch for other things (like kedging). We use galvanized U-Bolts (Lowes) to secure a “tow hitch style winch mounting plate” to the underside of the spinnaker pole once it is deployed. We tapped “stop bolts” around the base of the pole to serve as the “bite” for the U-Bolts. Simply pull the winch out of its storage
bag; mount and move on to rigging
the “lifting end” of the crane.
b. Rig the lifting end of the pole with a sturdy block. At the “lifting end” we attach 2 x galvanized clevis and a D-Ring (each). The spare halyard
(topping lift) is connected to the top ring and a sturdy block (with a quick-opening face) is connected to the bottom D-Ring…this will be the “pulley” for the vertical lift operation.
c. Attach a crane-swing control line to the working end (at the block) to control horizontal swing. A “control line” is connected to the top D-Ring and secured on deck to facilitate the “swing” movement onto the deck once the RIB is lifted above the life lines.
d. Free-spool the winch cable out to the pole-side of the block (this will provide up to 26 feet of lift).
***Note: our winch has a steel cable - we do not run this through the block***
e. Run a lifting line (9/16 double braid) of appropriate length to reach the RIB lift bridle
apex as the RIB sits in the water
***Note: This is the line we run through the block***
- one end with a d-ring connects to the winch snap hook on the winch side of the block
- other end has a snap hook to connect to the RIB lifting bridle
f. Raise the crane working end (using the topping lift on a manual mast winch) and cleat it firmly when the lifting line is positioned over the RIB (in the water)
***Note: The angle of the crane will depend on the boat - idea is to lift straight up so RIB will clear the mother-ship gunnel by a few inches***
***Note: We set up to clear by only a few inches to keep the RIB as far back on the deck when we swing it over the lifelines
Step 3: Prepare the RIB for lift:
a. Place the RIB bow and stern lines on the RIB so you can reach them when the lift brings the RIB above the lifelines
b. Raise the RIB motor
to full-up position.
c. Attach the RIB lift bridle (we use a 3-point rig).
d. Attach the crane lift line snap hook to the RIB lift bridle.
Step 4: Lift the RIB to clear lifelines.
Step 5: Diagram 1 - Swing crane/RIB to mother-ship center-line. (chose diagram instead of a video - to be filmed later).
Step 6: Lower dinghy
Step 7: Lower RIB with winch onto deck where dinghy transom wheels make contact with deck.
Step 8: Position dinghy deck cradle Bow cushion under RIB.
***Note: On our boat - the RIB arrives (on the swing) too far forward of the desired resting position - hence the transom wheels permit
us to roll it back into place***
Step 9: Lower RIB (with crane winch) onto 2 points of contact (Bow cushion and transom wheels) and ensure it is stable. Then, relieve cradle/lift tension on the winch.
Step 10: Release forward (bow) dinghy bridle (leave the two stern legs connected to the lift line/crane).
Step 11: Manually lift RIB bow and roll the RIB into final position on the deck.
Step 12: Raise the crane (manual winch – no pressure on bridle) to appropriate height/angle to lift RIB stern directly up in its final position so you can place the center and stern cradle cushions underneath.
Step 13: Raise the stern of the RIB (with the remaining bridle legs connected) and position the center and stern cradle cushions.
Step 14: Disconnect and stow all crane/Spinnaker pole gear
and secure RIB for passage
Lifting from the deck to the water
: Getting the RIB from the deck into the water has some minor operational differences – mainly dealing with crane angle. When lifting from the deck into the water – the RIB must first be moved “forward” to permit
enough crane “angle” clearance to clear the gunnel on lowering to the waterline.
Disclaimer: We most often elect to lift the RIB at the dock for maximum stability/safety. We have done this in a calm anchorage - but expect boat movement to be intensified which will cause “swing” during the lift. We recommend lifting at anchor be a 2 (or more) person operation (when not at the doc