Tiller Autopilots

[thomm225]

I recently bought a Simrad TP-10 for my 6600lb Bristol 27 after I lost my Navico during 7 hours of 24-30 knots winds. I had to keep taking over for the tiller autopilot. Long story.

This video will let you hear what it sounds like and how rapidly it can adjust. The video isn't clear at first but the tiller autopilot keeps the boat on course dead down wind.

Bristol 27 Dead Down Wind - YouTube

[sctpc]

Originally Posted by DeepFrz

Somewhere on this site from some years back is a thread about covers made to keep the tiller autopilot dry and shielded from UV damage. It was a waterproof case with a clear plastic window over the controls and a flap that was kept closed by velcro until the helmsman needed to see the control panel. I don't remember any other details but the poster/s on that thread felt it kept the autopilot dry and happy. One other thing I would suggest is to make sure the connector is in a dry location. I don't remember any other details.

I did this one to protect mine

[Fog Bank]

Finally managed to source a cover for ours. The local Quantum Sails loft put it together in a few days at an exceptional cost. Will post photos once I pick it up.

[StuartWeibel]

Thanks... I bought a 2000, and I can make a cover for it, no problem.

The hard bit at this point is installing it.

[Fast Tack]

Hi, I saw your post and am currently in the market for a tillerpilot. I am having a hard time deciding if I should get the Raymarine 2000 or the Simrad tp32. I need the larger one for my vessel. Do you have any thoughts on either of these,based on your experience ?

Thanks

[StuartWeibel]

I bought the RayMarine 2000. For me, it was a choice between the ST 1000 and the ST 2000. I didn't look carefully at the simrad, and I don't have a compelling reason. Perhaps just familiarity?

I've posted several notes on my blog about the choice, and the installation process which was quite involved for my boat. The main one is:
S/V Ripple: Tiller Pilots


At this point, having only used the TP a few times, I'm still getting used to it, but I think I'm going to be very happy with it. I'm planning a three month cruise up the Inside passage in the Spring, and I expect to be solo for most of it, so it will be great to have it.

[crazyoldboatguy]

I like my Simrad. Have had it for many years and it has worked well. I am on fresh water so can't really comment on how well it stands up to the corrosive environment.

[StuartWeibel]

Fast Tack, if you end up getting a RayMarine, you may be interested in the pattern for a tiller pilot cover I posted as well:

S/V Ripple: Making a Tiller Pilot Cover

[Tymadman]

You might also be interested in a remote control for your ST2000, especially as you will be sailing solo.

Sent from my XT1033 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[Rustic Charm]

I use a st2000GP. It's the round cylinder type. I'm on my second one.

My 36 foot steel ketch is is about 10 000 kg so it's very under rated. But handles all weather until the waves get too big.

In future I'd like to move to something more robust but I'm really not sure what given my transit hung rudder and tiller steering.

I had a Simrad for about 4 weeks, really didn't like it at all. It was no where near built as well so I sold it.

[StuartWeibel]

Originally Posted by Tymadman

You might also be interested in a remote control for your ST2000, especially as you will be sailing solo.

yes, I'd love to have one. too many demands on the budget at present.

[xwhyz]

I've used my Raymarine 2000 auto tiller on my Cape Dory 28 for several years. One of my very favorite upgrades. Couple observations:

Probably over all safer operation as I can check other issues without straying.

I was very careful to position the unit as specified. I fabricated an "L" bracket of expoxied wood that quickly bolts onto the seat (made teak knobs on the bolts so they can be quickly spun in). Also reinforced the wooden tiller with a wrap of fiberglass.

I followed the Raymarine wiring instructions meticulously. So sure I was right I skipped one of the steps regarding testing (dahhhh!). Just wouldn't track right. Multiple talks with very helpful Raymarine techs.....learned the installation books were actually written in Great Britain.....the light goes on.....the polarity colors are different. Corrected in 30 seconds.

The auto-tiller on a pin can't be beat for quickly doing a power turn: say motoring in a channel a big wake boat comes by. Hit "Standby", pop off the auto-tiller, steer into the wake, back on course, pop on the auto-tiller arm again. Takes a second.

At the end of the day I extend the drive arm fully, wipe the unit with fresh water, then a light dose of WD40. Then retract the arm for storing. Like new yet.

Very little power draw. I just installed a Blue Seas digital amp meter. The unit steering in choppy seas pulls about as much as the stereo, less than an amp. Very surprised. (the big power pig is the stern light: 2.5 amps)

[lockie]

One thing to be wary of is letting the tillerpilot stall for long periods at the end of its stroke. This can happen a lot if your sails are not well balanced, and the boat has a heavy weather helm.

When the tillerpilot strokes all the way over and remains there, the motor is still energised and forcing the drive. If allowed to persist it will eventually result in a stripped drive belt. This happened to me at the end of a 3 week cruise. The good news was Raymaring repairing under warranty, no questions asked. Now I am very careful about intervening when I hear the growling stalled-motor sound for more than a few seconds. If you are cruising long-term, a back-up would be advisable, and/or a spare drive belt or two.

It's a dumb design - with a bit of code the motor could be turned off after a few seconds stalled at the end of its stroke. I have heard of clever chaps fitting their own limit switches internally to achieve just that.

But all that aside, they are a huge boon for extended cruising, solo or not. In a perfect world you'd have a wind vane plus autohelm/tillerpilot.

Cheers, Graeme

[Doug Pollard]

I am an Old mchinist who has run machine tools with both led screws and Ball lead screws. Both tend to last for use even under heavy loads. I suspect what usually fails in tiller pilots is the elctronics and electric motors. Maybe salt water entry.? having said all this I don't think as a user w you will know the difference unless help is so bad you can't sail the boat yourself. In that case a pilot likely won't be able to either and something in it will fail. The good news with the ball lead screw is they will put a little less load on the motor. Douglas G Pollard Sr.

[wsmurdoch]

Originally Posted by Doug Pollard

I am an Old mchinist who has run machine tools with both led screws and Ball lead screws. Both tend to last for use even under heavy loads. I suspect what usually fails in tiller pilots is the elctronics and electric motors.

My failures include two ball lead screw failures and one electronics failure using Simrad TP-30 and TP-32 Tillerpilots on a Pacific Seacraft 34 with tiller steering over a period of eleven years. One of the two lead screws (the TP-30) I replaced myself. The metal in the screw had been deformed and reshaped by the balls. I took the lead screw to both Dixie Bearing (Applied Industrial Tech) and to Motion Industries looking for a replacement. Neither counter man recognized the OEM part, so I had a Simrad dealer order one for me. It was not a problem to swap out.

When the lead screw fails it makes increasing amounts of noise; then in the end, the push rod rotates rather than going in and out, and shortly thereafter everything locks up.

The TP-32 tillerpilots have black bodies. In the blazing hot sun they get hot enough to screw up the electronics. They just go crazy and beep. Cooling them off with a wet cloth will normally restore their brains. Keeping them under a white towel or under a white cover will prevent the problem. If they do not recover from their heat stroke after cooling down, a factory reset will usually get them going again. It is not in the instruction book: start with the power off and while simultaneously holding in the port, starboard, nav, and tack buttons restore the power, wait till the LEDS stop flashing, then release the buttons, the factory settings will be restored. (Be careful, you may change the tillerpilot from starboard side mount to port, but the instruction manual tells you how to fix that.)

See also post #11 in this thread.