Cruisers Forum

Join CruisersForum Today

Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 21-12-2015, 21:34   #76

Cruisers Forum Supporter

Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 13,055
Re: RIB repair. Hypalon and ?

FWIW, if you are going to try perc, go to an auto shop and look for "brake cleaner". Perc used to be used for this because it would take off everything and then flash away with no residue. That's now banned in many places so there are varying mixes of other chemicals sold, pretty much equally effective. (And I'd still use the respirator.)

hellosailor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21-12-2015, 22:29   #77
Registered User

Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,062
Re: RIB repair. Hypalon and ?

Originally Posted by Jim Cate View Post
Yeah, Toluene is fairly nasty stuff. A respirator with an organic vapour cartridge would be a good investment for you, Skip! And for that job, the "good ventilation" that is recommended then increases the rate of flash-off of the solvent, making the job harder. Bugger...


PS Did you try either tri- or perchlorethelyne? They sometimes work as solvents for the same things that Toluene works on, and are much less toxic.
Perchlorethelyne AKA Perc is also nasty stuff and a known carcinogen. They used to use it for dry cleaning solvent until it was banned by the EPA. Don't assume it's less toxic.

SailFastTri is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22-12-2015, 01:34   #78
Senior Cruiser
Jim Cate's Avatar

Cruisers Forum Supporter

Join Date: May 2008
Location: cruising SW Pacific
Boat: Jon Sayer 1-off 46 ft fract rig sloop strip plank in W Red Cedar
Posts: 11,461
Re: RIB repair. Hypalon and ?

Originally Posted by SailFastTri View Post
Perchlorethelyne AKA Perc is also nasty stuff and a known carcinogen. They used to use it for dry cleaning solvent until it was banned by the EPA. Don't assume it's less toxic.
Well, a lot of things are banned by the EPA... you can buy Perchlor in any big grocery store in New Caledonia, right next to the ammonia (toxic) bleach (toxic) and swimming pool acid (toxic), etc... .

But remember, Perchlor WAS used routinely in dryclean shops for years, with workers exposed 40+ hours a week, and some of them survived. A one time exposure to isn't likely to kill or maim Skip. Care is advised (as in my post) !!

I no longer have access to toxicity manuals, but iirc Toluol is a bit worse than perchlor. Perhaps I am wrong... I have a liter of perchlor in a locker on board. Useful stuff.

Jim and Ann s/v Insatiable II , lying Port Cygnet, Tasmania once again
Jim Cate is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-12-2015, 14:11   #79
Registered User

Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: St Louis, MO
Boat: Nordic 44
Posts: 100
Re: RIB repair. Hypalon and ?

Ok so My Avon 310 inflateable is most likely Hypalon based on the way it responds to sanding. I went to Home Depot and bought this little kit;

(Gator 2" surface preparation disc kit)

My rail is only separating in some spots so I do not want to take it off completely. I can get in betwen the worst spots with one of the surface conditioning discs attached to portable drill. So far it works better than anything else. And no gunk build up on the disc or need for toxic stuff. Removal of the glue now seems possible. FWIW.
pitlaw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14-01-2016, 19:37   #80
Senior Cruiser
skipmac's Avatar

Cruisers Forum Supporter

Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: 29 49.16 N 82 25.82 W
Boat: Pearson 422
Posts: 12,383
Update on the repair.

The rub rail is back on the dinghy.

I ended up using two different products; partly due to cost but also availability, convenience and I wanted to try both for comparison.

Started with the MarineTex Flex Set epoxy. Attached the bow section first as that seemed the best way to center the rub rail and have a secure point to stretch the rail out to the finished position on the tubes. It did take a pretty good pull to get the rail to stretch tight and fit all the way to the original end points at the back end of both tubes.

The Flex Set was pretty easy to work with, not too messy and not too difficult to clean up the squeeze out, drips and misses. It does take a few hours for the initial cure so had to secure the rail very well during the process. The directions said full cure in 24 hours but subjectively it seemed much stronger after a few days, however it was on the low side of recommended temps for application.

I did the gluing in sections, roughly a 3 oz applicator's worth at a time. 3 oz kit of Flex Set covered 3-4' of rub rail. Best deal I found was $18.60/kit delivered. The rail is 22' long and I did about half of it with 3 kits so $56 worth did half the rail. This was a good bit less coverage than I had hoped and with no marine stores within 2 hours drive I was going to have to order another $56 or more worth of epoxy and wait a week to finish the job. Since 5200 is available locally I decided to give that a try for the rest of the job.

One $20 tube of 5200 did the rest of the rail. Application and curing time was not too different from the epoxy so technique was similar.

A few comments and observations.

1. The epoxy adhered very well to the Hypalon. So well that after it cured fully it would pull the Hypalon away from the fabric layer underneath instead of the epoxy pealing off. Not quite as well to the PVC rail. After 24 hours I could pull out on the loose, unglued section of the rail and peel a bit away from the dinghy with moderate effort, the glue pulling off of the PVC rail, not the Hypalon tube. After another couple of days the bond did seem to be stronger and I was not able to pull the rail away from the tube but was not testing as aggressively as before.

2. Even after fully curing the epoxy remained flexible, living up to it's claims in that regard.

3. As expected the 5200 was much messier to work with than the epoxy and cleanup of mistakes and drips more difficult. Careful masking of the tubes before applying both adhesives was essential. Not only did it minimize the mess and greatly ease the cleanup and trimming afterwards but since both materials took some time to cure the masking was essential to visually insure the rail was mounted in the right spot and to reposition when it inevitably slipped while I was securing it in place for the overnight cure.

4. Securing the rail to the tubes for the curing period was a bit tricky, both positioning the rail and trying to hold the edges of the rail flat against the tube. The edges in places wanted to curl up and leave a gap between the rail and the tube. I used a good grade of duct tape and fully taped each edge section to the tubes as I glued it. This worked reasonably well. There were still gaps in spots but were acceptably small and easy to come back later with a gloved finger and fill the crack with a little more adhesive, leaving a fairly nice, clean edge.

5. The 5200 seems to stick very well to both surfaces although not like the epoxy. The 5200 I can scrape away the drips with a razor but trying to scrape off the epoxy rips the Hypalon coating from the fabric.

I've had the dink out a couple of times now, have inflated and deflated and so far so good. Will report back after a few months for further updates.
The water is always bluer on the other side of the ocean.
skipmac is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 14-01-2016, 19:43   #81
JPA Cate's Avatar

Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: aboard, cruising in Australia
Boat: Sayer 46' Solent rig sloop
Posts: 10,705
Re: RIB repair. Hypalon and ?

Skipmac: Thank you so much for the report. I suppose it is inevitable that the center stripe will try to part from the rest of the dinghy, and I will remember your success with the 5200, which we have used with success below the waterline on herculon (a pvc fabric with a nylon scrim).

Ann, with Jim, aboard US s/v Insatiable II, in Oz, very long term cruisers
JPA Cate is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 15-01-2016, 01:40   #82
Registered User
Scout 30's Avatar

Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Florida
Boat: Scout 30
Posts: 2,349
Re: RIB repair. Hypalon and ?

Thanks for the update! I'm leaning towards the 5200 also as it's so easy to come by & there's no mixing but it is really messy & takes a long time to cure. It will be interesting to hear how it holds up.

Scout 30 is offline   Reply With Quote


Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
For Sale: Avon Hypalon 10' RIB Dinghy With Sunbrella Cover silverp40 Classifieds Archive 22 20-03-2013 11:48
What's the Best 11-12' Hypalon RIB? Travis McGee Auxiliary Equipment & Dinghy 2 15-08-2012 19:34
Fixing 3" Cut in Hypalon RIB Acadia Auxiliary Equipment & Dinghy 28 22-02-2011 13:32
For Sale: West Marine Hypalon RIB 310 rja Classifieds Archive 0 18-11-2010 11:01
PVC? Hypalon? RIB or High Pressure? svDragonfly General Sailing Forum 33 09-06-2009 18:24

Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:30.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Social Knowledge Networks
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.

ShowCase vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.