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Old 16-01-2009, 18:25   #1
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How would you do this?

I got a couple of nylon cleats for my water tender but can't decide how to mount them. The boat is plastic and hollow between the skins and the undersides of the bow are all sloped or inaccesable ruling out any kind of backing plate situation. Just screwing them to the thin deck seems like a poor option. Use an adhesive in addition? How would you do it?
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Old 16-01-2009, 18:32   #2
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That's exactly what I'd do, glue em and screw em. That's gonna be your best bet since ya can't really get ta anything solid. Just check their stability every now and then before tying up.

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Old 16-01-2009, 18:38   #3
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Distance between skins?

Long screws, backing plate and locking nuts.

Can't imagine trusting any kind of screw through single layer plastic, 5200 or not.
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Old 16-01-2009, 18:44   #4
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Distance between skins?

Long screws, backing plate and locking nuts.

Can't imagine trusting any kind of screw through single layer plastic, 5200 or not.
The top skin is flat up there and the bottom is vaguely shaped like a W. Thru bolts would be exiting the lower skin at extreme angles.

How about some kind of butterfly screw that pops open after it goes through the hole? Ever seen one beefy enough?
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Old 16-01-2009, 18:47   #5
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not only would I want to thru-bolt to backing plates...

...but I'd want to explore ways to fill the void between the skins in that area. Perhaps with thickened epoxy?
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Old 16-01-2009, 18:54   #6
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How about some kind of butterfly screw that pops open after it goes through the hole? Ever seen one beefy enough?
Only in substandard metal.

I like the epoxy idea too.
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Old 16-01-2009, 19:14   #7
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I think you would be well advised to contact the manufacturer or a dealer for advice. Without knowing the thickness and strength of the outer shell we are just guessing. I have never seen a butterfly fixture that would handle the loads imposed on it that towing a dingy would impose. Besides they only spread the load out to 2 fairly small ares. If the material will allow epoxy to bond to it with the epoxy's full strength, then laminating in 2 strong points using epoxy, glass and foam might work. Again, consultation with the manufacturer or their rep. would be advised.
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Old 16-01-2009, 19:53   #8
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I had a water tender 9.4 I found not even 3M 5200 would stick to it. I wanted to fasten some U bolts in the gunnels i was able to make some backing plates of Starboard and trough bolt but this was a part of the boat where the inner and outer shels were touching so the baking plate squeezed them together. I don't have that boat anymore but if I recall right there are some spots where there are some wood pieces inside which can be screwed into maybe you should check with the manufacturer.
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Old 16-01-2009, 22:10   #9
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Try to fill with epoxy.Then drill thru both skins and the epoxy. Where the bolt comes out at an extreme angle make a washer that will fit to the angle of the inside of the hull on one side and then be perpindicuilar to the bolt on the other end. Look for a thread started by Delmahttp://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/cockpit-project-of-an-old-racer-18768.htmlrrey Here are the washers he made. You coul also make them our of wood
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Old 17-01-2009, 03:38   #10
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Can you fix the cleat to a larger base plate or bracket...then glue/screw it to the plastic...it'll give you the chance to use more screews.
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Old 17-01-2009, 04:55   #11
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Sikkaflex works pretty well on the plastic boats.

I would drill through and fill the void, plus using a backing plate.

I would not be using plastic cleats either.
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Old 17-01-2009, 06:16   #12
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Google "Rivnuts" and use James I dea of a bigger top plate.
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Old 17-01-2009, 07:12   #13
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Can you fix the cleat to a larger base plate or bracket...then glue/screw it to the plastic...it'll give you the chance to use more screews.
This is about the best idea I've seen so far. Is there something like PVC cement that would slightly melt both plastics then bond them? I've done some acrylic projects where the seams were the strongest area due to this chemical welding process but I don't know how this would work with 2 different plastics.

To those who are suggesting and epoxy fill, it would take several gallons of epoxy to fill this area. It's just not feasable. Plus, I would have to cut a access hole somewhere and I don't want water getting between the skins. I'll post a close up pic of the area later today.
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Old 17-01-2009, 09:08   #14
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Water Tender

Aquah0lic, The watertender is HMWPE (Polyethelyne) which is about the same as a milk jug or fuel jug. Little if anything will stick to it. If you take a piece of plastic (like a piece of thin starboard or kitchen cutting board) and attach the cleat to it with flush fasteners then you can heat the cleat assembly with a heat gun and conform it to the surface you wish to place it. I would then use SS poprivits (3/16) or Rivenuts (Similar but threaded) to hold the assembly in place. Some silicone or Poly sulfide will help seal like a gasket but will not likely adheare. You might try on an old plastic jerry jug. Take your time heating the starboard (1/4") and it will eventually bend.
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