Help - Removing Glue

[gwp]

Trying to restore a Bombard Tropik 10 inflatable. All parts are in tact but the bottom was re-glued with probably the wrong stuff and I have pulled the whole bottom off (it wasn't difficult). Sticky glue everywhere......and I hope to shortcut the learning curve here.......what is the best solvent, and technique, to clean all this crap off? Laquer thinner, acetone, MEK? Once done, what is the best glue to use? I did a search on this site and had a bit of trouble answering the "removal" question. Web research indicates I am dealing with hypalon. Thanks very much!

[Mark Johnson]

If you have determined that Bombards are made of Hypalon VS PVC that is a start. (I didn't know).

The correct glue for Hypalon is basically "contact cement", sold in small tubes, from marine stores. I used to use the superior two part version, but now use the one part, because it has many times the shelf life. (I have NEVER had a patch fail, with either kind, even after a decade!

The failure could have been: Poor prep... It needs several solvent washes, (with MEK), and the bonding surfaces ONLY need to be scuffed up with 80 grit, to a 100% fuzzy glaze. This is very important.

It could be an improper ratio of two part glue?

It could be the wrong kind of glue, like the kind for PVC?

Or it could've been incorrectly glued.

The correct procedure on newly prepped surfaces, is to coat the two mating surfaces which were masked off before sanding with a thin even coat... QUICKLY with a throwaway acid brush. Then, after 15 minutes coat the two halves again. NOW, wait 5 minutes if it is HOT, or maybe 10 minutes if it is 65 or 70 F. Then put the two halves together one bit at the time, with PERFECT alignment from BEFORE they touch. Once they touch, it will not move! After the piece is on, press it VERY firmly over and over, until it is all bonded. This pressing and working it down process might take 30 minutes on a large part, and it can't be skipped or over done.

The largest piece I have done was a rub rail, and an entire floor would be a challenge! It would best be divided into perhaps thirds. You could coat and apply the front, then coat and apply the middle, then coat and apply the aft third separately.

IF you have the correct glue on there, and it feels dry, AND it was prepped correctly, then you don't have to remove it. You can just soften it with MEK, and start the bonding process as mentioned above. The new glue will soften and bond to the old dry glue. HOPE THAT YOU HAVE THE CORRECT GLUE ON THERE! IF the previous glue job had the parts put together right away, that might account for the previous failure.

If this glue on the two parts dries to the touch, that is a good sign. I'd then glue on a small strip the way I described, and let it sit a couple of days. Then if it will NOT come off, you can probably trust that it was the correct glue. Next... prep what you can and re-glue, (After removing that patch).

After the strip experiment, IF the prep or glue on the two parts still seem wrong, your best bet on removal is MEK, but it would take a LOT of time and effort, and might screw up the hypalon layer. If this is the conclusion, however, you have nothing to loose, so go for it!

The way that you remove that strip, or a patch, D ring, oar lock base, rub rail, or anything else glued to it, is: Using a heat gun, held back 18" and passed back and forth gradually, heat the area. As it heats up, try to work a sharp, thin putty knife blade into the glue joint. As soon as it goes in, grab an edge and start peeling it off, GENTLY. Don't pull hard if it stops coming, heat some more. The difference between getting the glue line to release, and melting the Hapalon coating, is about 10 degrees! Go slow, heat the piece overall and gradually, and DON'T over heat it by getting close or stopping the constant fanning back and forth.

Good luck!

Mark

[Bash]

toluene--nasty stuff--is the best solvent to dissolve contact cement.
if you want to try something less nasty, this might work: Orange Off Fiberglass & Inflatable Boat Adhesive Remover/Cleaner

[s/v Jedi]

3M adhesive remover/cleaner



ciao!
Nick.

[gwp]

Mark and others.....Wow......lots of information.....FAST.....Thanks! I really think the PO used the wrong glue. It was not difficult to remove the whole bottom. It came off with long "strings" of glue which did not put up much of a fight, and it was far from dry........it was not necessary to pry with a putty knife. Just pulled it right off. Very sticky grey glue which came off my hands with laquer thinner easily. I have some acetone and laquer thinner. Think I'll give it a try unless you say this will damage the material. Thx much

[David M]

I'm pretty sure acetone will melt it. Try a small test spot that will not do any harm.

[zeehag]

the best repair glue for hypalon is the 2 part stuff that comes in kind of kit-- downwind marine has it--they do online business....i think dinghy doctor in sd also has it ... they do online biz... gooodluck.

[gwp]

About half done removing glue....not too bad a job. Now that's not my big concern......but rather conclusively determining what material I'm dealing with.....hypalon or PVC. Most web info indicates hypalon but some say PVC. How can you tell? Thx again

[Pblais]

3M adhesive remover/cleaner

aka Xylene. Nasty stuff - works well even on 3M 5200. You need Nitrile gloves.

About the best there is when you leave the blue masking tape on far far too long.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Pblais

aka Xylene. Nasty stuff - works well even on 3M 5200. You need Nitrile gloves.

About the best there is when you leave the blue masking tape on far far too long.

yah, I like effective stuff

ciao!
Nick.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by gwp

About half done removing glue....not too bad a job. Now that's not my big concern......but rather conclusively determining what material I'm dealing with.....hypalon or PVC. Most web info indicates hypalon but some say PVC. How can you tell? Thx again

It's made by Zodiac which is a PVC fan. I wouldn't bother fixing this dinghy when in the tropics.

ciao!
Nick.