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#1 |
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Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Bradenton, FL
Boat: Irwin 30, Tropicool
Posts: 4
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Davit connection points on tender
Hey fellow sailors,
I just purchased a Walker Bay 8 and would like to modify it to be lifted using my horizontal davit system on the transom. I tried using the gunwhale lip after reinforcing it with starboard but it doesn't lift high enough out of the water. Any ideas or thoughts? |
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#3 |
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Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Bradenton, FL
Boat: Irwin 30, Tropicool
Posts: 4
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Is there a way to do that without drilling holes through the floor?
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#4 |
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Registered User
![]() Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Toronto in summer, further south in winter.
Boat: CS36Merlin, "La Belle Aurore" Ben393 "Breathless"
Posts: 1,891
Images: 34
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D rings through the floor. Drilling holes won't hurt it. I did this with my AB rigid inflatable.
__________________
Rick I Toronto |
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#5 |
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Registered User
![]() Join Date: May 2006
Location: Kea'au, Big Island, Hawaii
Boat: Cascade, Cutter, 42 - "Casual"
Posts: 3,922
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Hi Aqua,
Can you use the bow eye and transom plastic gudgeon slot somehow? I like Sean's suggestion but you definitely would have to poke through the plastic and have backing washers. There are already holes in the boat at the drain plug and daggerboard slot but may not be that strategically placed. If you could find where the bow eye comes through to the interior and use the end of that for one attachment point and then find where the gudgeon system on the stern is bolted through and extend some of those bolts you might be able to use those two places plus the daggerboard slot and have a three part sling. That's it for my suggestions. Good luck in your project. Kind Regards, JohnL |
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#6 |
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Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Bradenton, FL
Boat: Irwin 30, Tropicool
Posts: 4
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Thanks for the quick responses. Would 5200 adhesive work to seal the bolt holes after drilling.
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#7 |
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Registered User
![]() Join Date: May 2006
Location: Kea'au, Big Island, Hawaii
Boat: Cascade, Cutter, 42 - "Casual"
Posts: 3,922
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5200 will seal the holes and is better than polysulfied for plastic. Silicone might be just as good and much cheaper. Just apply the silicone before you install the nuts and bolts, finger tighten the nuts and bolts and wait 24 hours, then tighten them a bit harder. Silicone forms a good gasket, 5200 is a permanent adhesive sealant.
JohnL |
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#8 |
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Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Bradenton, FL
Boat: Irwin 30, Tropicool
Posts: 4
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Thank you, Sir for all the great advice. I found the D-rings on Ebay and they're on the way. Take care and happy cruising!
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#9 |
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Registered User
![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: Maungaturoto, New Zealand only 10 minutes from the Kaipara harbour, it is a tidal harbour with one of the largest shore lines in the Southern hemisphere, no shortage of sand banks though.
Boat: Trismus 37 (alloy) built in 1976 or 1986 depending on who you talk to!
Posts: 452
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Walker bay have a kit of 4 eyes that replace the nuts on the 4 of the seat bolts, you don't have to drill holes or anything else. I have been using them for a couple of years and found them satisfactory.
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