If the dink's a
RIB, one option is to add some padeyes to her floor as described below. And then attach some
rope handles to them. Which, you can tailor their length to your liking, & even add sections of PVC tubing over the
rope for handles that are softer on the hands. And it'd be easy enough to setup something where by they're held up within reach, at the gunwale level.
To do this you can bond some FRP plate, G-10, or (cringe)
Marine Plywood pads to the inside of the bottom of the
hull, & then put a few padeyes on them on the floor. You'd want to bevel or bullnose the edges of the pads, & perhaps add a bit of tabbing around their perimeter. Up to you. But if you add such pads, & then
epoxy bond the fasteners into said pads, they'll be more than strong enough.
Use 4-bolt padeyes, with a big footprint. So that the load is spread out over a larger area. And pick ones that are "kick friendly", as you'll want the
installation of the pads to be as well. No point in setting yourself up for broken toes.
EDIT: Before you decide where exactly to add the pads & padeyes to, think through what kinds of items you might put into the dink that it would be good to be able to tie down. Be that
scuba tanks, an anchor(s), milk crates full of random heavy
gear, etc. And then put in tie downs for everything at the same time you add the padeyes.
Slotted toerail track makes an excellent basis for this kind of thing, as you get so many tie down options with it due to the multiplicity of holes in it. Plus you can use it to
lift the dink via
davits. Thus it's multi-purpose.
Also, try not to attach any metal
hardware to the dink's floor that'll abrade the tubes when they're deflated & folded down. Especially when it's deflated, inverted, & lashed down to your
deck or
cabin top.