Aries windvane swivel fork removal

[jams]

Hi all,

Currently rebuilding my Aries, its an Isle of Wight late 70's model. Most of it has come to bits really easily. However I'm stuck on the swivel fork (the bit that holds the top gear). I've removed the grub screw but it just wont budge, needs to come off as its really stiff, have to use quite a bit of effort just to turn it.

Anybody had this problem? Or did yours just pull out?

I've sprayed it with some decent penetrating oil which has made it slightly more easy to twist but not much.

Any help appreciated.

For clarification a photo of the offending bit is attached

Regards

James

[kentobin]

Hello James,

I went to the Aries website and no mention is made of how to remove those pins.

Your picture looks like the fork end, part 42. The two pins are the Joint Block Pin - Spigot End, part 36, and Joint Block Pin - Plain End, part 37.

The fork end attaches to the connecting rod, part 38.

These pins are used in both the fork end and the connecting rod.

The only reference I found is, "The connecting rod No 38 is removed by pulling out the top and bottom pins No 36 (they should have serrations on their ends)."

"Pulling out the top and bottom pins 36" seems to indicate 'not to' use a hammer and drift and drive the pins through the fork end from the outside but to push them out from inside. Remember the pins should have serrations on their ends.

I haven't a clue on how to tell pin part 36 from pin part 37 and the technical illustration is so small if there is a difference you can't see it. :-)

I have an Aries I inherited with my boat. It also needs a rebuild. If You find an solution I sure would appreciate a reply.

If you don't have them already I've included the links for our windvane on the Aries website:

Aries Standard Vane Gear Technical Illustration

Aries Standard Vane Gear Parts List

Rebuilding hints for the Aries Vane Gear - Standard Model.

Ken

[Bestathook]

According to tests posted on a motorcycle forum, a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid works mush better than any commercial product tested for penetrating lubricant.

[kentobin]

Hello James,

Sure didn't read your post. I looked at your picture and got fixated on the pins.

I'll check on my Aries tomorrow and see if it comes apart. Mine doesn't look to corroded. I'll let you know what I find.

If I understand your post the fork end moves but it's to stiff. You're trying to remove the bolt that attaches it to the connecting rod. That bolt is frozen in the connecting rod but you've already taken the nut off the bolt.

I've had good luck using a propane torch to heat the aluminum as well as soaking it in penetrating oil. Took a long time to free the parts. The penetrating oil by itself wasn't working after a week. Started heating the assembly and applying penetrating oil when it cooled down but still warm. Allegedly when the assembly is still cooling it will help suck in the penetrating oil. I wasn't to aggressive with the heat so it took 3 or 4 heatings.

Sorry for rambling on about the pins.

Ken

[lonesoldier0408]

The pins in the fork look to be held in with either Allen type screws or spring and check ball. The fork itself seems to have a snap ring clip. Can you freeze the offending parts... Heat would remove temper and strength... Freezing could increase the clearance on the offending bits... This technique is used in assembly on some things, which are required to bind at normal temperature and above... Just food for thought... All the best...

[kentobin]

Hello James,

Sorry I can't help you out.

I posted a picture just to verify we're talking about the same assembly.

I'm assuming you have to remove the bolt that goes through the fork end and connecting rod assembly. The nut holding the bolt in doesn't have enough clearance to get a socket or wrench on it. Possibly there isn't even enough clearance for the nut to turn. Did you remove the nut so you could push the bolt out?

To disassemble the unit to get to the bolt head I'll have to possibly spend several hours of time I don't have now. If it's frozen as yours is I'm not sure I can even remove that nut unless I use a nut cracker.

I keep learning why you should never buy a fixer upper.

Really thought I could be of more help.

Ken

[jams]

Thanks for all the comments.

Got it off eventually. Succeeded buy boiling/cooling/wiggling it for about 2hrs which gave me a couple of mm free play. Then attacked it with some mole grips for another 3 hrs of the worst unscrewing i have ever had to do. Took all my strength to get 1/8th of a turn! All back together now, spins freely.

cheers

James