Anyone with the new Suzuki DF15A or DF20A Outboard?

[colemj]

Those are terrible prices. Look around and you will find they start at $2,400 (no tax, free shipping) for the 15hp and $2,600 for the 20hp. The 20hp tops out in price at $3,100 for long shaft, electric start and power tilt. Right now, they seem to be offering $300 rebates also.

There is only a $200 difference between 15hp and 20hp, but some dinghies are not rated for 20hp. It can be changed later by swapping out the electronics box, but that costs $700.

Mark

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by Cotemar

Why would anyone want a Suzuki DF15A when you can have DF20A which is exactly the same engine and weight. Do they charge that much more for a DF20A sticker?

We got the best price on our 15-hp short shaft electric start version from Porta-Bote.

Our dinghy is rated for a max of 15-hp... and one of the last things I need is a long discussion with an "authority" of some sort about why I might have chosen to exceed the manufacturer's tested rating.

And in the grand scheme of things, 15 is sufficient anyway, especially for our purposes.

-Chris

[Ghillie]

Quick question I hope colemj or anyone can answer. If I purchase the SUZUKI 20 HP DF20AS with a tiller and then later want to upgrade my dinghy with a console setup, can I simply upgrade the motor with remote controls?

Also colemj thank you for the review. I work on engines (turbofan) for a living and it's nice to see an outboard with "new" technology like EFI. It really has me excited to purchase something I know won't be outdated anytime soon. I'm sure there are many naysayers about ECUs making things more complicated but they really make problems much easier to diagnose.

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by Ghillie

Quick question I hope colemj or anyone can answer. If I purchase the SUZUKI 20 HP DF20AS with a tiller and then later want to upgrade my dinghy with a console setup, can I simply upgrade the motor with remote controls?

The parts catalog includes "remote control" systems. The owners manual is silent about that kind of upgrade... but I think I remember I asked the dealer that question and got an affirmative. Wouldn't trust my memory, though.

-Chris

[a64pilot]

For those curious, I laid my DF20 up for six months, as in just simply stopped using it, brought the dinghy home on a trailer and let it sit in the yard for six months, didn't run the engine dry or anything. I did this intentionally as I wanted to see if there would be problems with the fuel system with old fuel sitting in it for an extended time.
Anyway took it back down to the boat last weekend, I did put fresh gas in the can, the quick disconnect at the can leaked requiring a new O ring, but the motor started second pull and has run perfectly. I had theorized that the fuel in the engine is sealed, has no contact with air, and without contact with air, it can't evaporate or oxidize.
Seems this engine can handle excessive lay-up times with no issue.

[ranger58sb]

Useful info, thanks for posting.


We won't re-commission ours until mid-May, but as I wimped out and had the local dealer do the initial service and winterize at the same time (this time), I wasn't expecting to have to learn all this until the next year.

-Chris

[AliaVita]

Our DF20 is now just 12 months old and we are live a boards so use it most days. Not had a moments trouble, would recommend it. Fuel economy has exceeded my wildest expectations and I haven't topped up the oil once.

Rob

[Cyrus747]

also interested in purchasing a Suzuki 15 for my boat...the weight has has me the most interested but there are a couple little parts that seemed cheap which were the sliding leg locking piece and the tilt lever. So for the guys out there that have these, any regrets? any issues so far? its either that or a Yamaha...need to decide soon!

[ranger58sb]

No issues or regrets so far.


-Chris

[Cyrus747]

do they idle down nice? was looking for something with trolling speed...also I was looking at one and couldn't find the oil filter? is there one? the dealer had no clue...

[Captain Bill]

Originally Posted by Cyrus747

do they idle down nice? was looking for something with trolling speed...also I was looking at one and couldn't find the oil filter? is there one? the dealer had no clue...

They idle quietly and smoothly and have a steady transition from slow idle to full throttle. There is a paper element type oil filter, not a spin on cartridge. It's a PITA to change. You actually have to remove the lower half of the cowling, remove the fuel filter (that's actually the easy part as it just slides off) and then remove three screws from the oil filter cover plate to get to the element. Not the best design for servicing from a cruising boat.

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by Cyrus747

also interested in purchasing a Suzuki 15 for my boat...the weight has has me the most interested but there are a couple little parts that seemed cheap which were the sliding leg locking piece and the tilt lever. So for the guys out there that have these, any regrets? any issues so far? its either that or a Yamaha...need to decide soon!

Suzuki has never in my opinion been as good a quality as Yamaha or Honda, but I really liked the technology, but the biggest thing to me was 20 HP for 99 lbs, so I took a gamble. There is more plastic on this motor than I've ever seen before, but that in itself may not be bad, plastic doesn't corrode.
But fit and finish, it's no Yamaha or Honda.
It will idle forever and not load up and I've found no quirks with the engine. Oil filter I think is supposed to be a Dealer serviced item as there was no info on it in the owners manual as to how to change it, but there is info and videos on it on YouTube etc.

Oh, and the oil filter housing O ring, doesn't float by the way
One thing I really like, it keeps up with oil changes, there is an LED that will flash at you when it's time to change the oil. Mine did, I assume that wasn't just for the break in

[colemj]

We have had our Suzuki 20hp for 1.5 yrs now and it has run perfectly and looks like new. The plastic parts are because it is a fuel injected engine and the related components such as the vapor separator, etc do not need to be metal. It is also missing metal components specific to a carburetor system. This is a good thing.

The computer controlled fuel injection not only allows it to operate smoothly forever at trolling speeds, it sips gas while doing so because it can be easily run in a very lean mode. The most surprising thing for us with this motor is how fuel efficient it is, even compared to our previous Honda 15 - I estimate about 20% more efficient than our Honda 15 (and this is a 20hp). Whenever the throttle is held at a steady level, the computer changes the fuel and timing to operate in a lean mode and minimize the fuel burn. We so rarely need to refill the 3 gallon tank that our biggest issue now is to not get caught with an empty tank because it last so long that we forget about it. Compared to the Yamaha Enduro 15hp, it literally burns only half of the fuel for the same operation - a stunning difference.

As for fit and finish, this Suzuki is as good as our previous Honda and a lot better than a Yamaha Enduro. Every single metal component on it is either stainless or monel - all bolts, springs, roll pins, etc. Our previous Honda had a lot of issues with stupid rusting little parts like springs and roll pins that would leave it inoperable - I spent a lot of effort tearing it apart and replacing all the little mild steel parts with stainless. A friend's Yamaha 20hp was even worse. I went through the entire Suzuki expecting to need to do the same and did not find a single mild steel component.

The tilt mechanism is a common type used on other engines. I find it much more convenient than that on our Honda, although the Honda tilt felt "beefier". We have had no issues with it. I don't understand what the other part is that you were questioning.

I do wish the oil filter was a spin on type, but it is definitely not a dealer service item. I recall our manual having changing instructions, but we also have the service manual, so I may be confused (not on the boat now to check). Anyway, it is a paper element where you remove the cap off a housing, swap out the elements and recap. The service interval is every other oil change, so it isn't too onerous of a task.

Like others, we have let the motor set idle for several months and had no problem starting it right up again.

I was nervous buying this new model/technology engine when it was introduced two years ago, but it has exceeded our expectations so far. I think it is currently the best choice in a 4-stroke 15-20hp, and out-competes the venerable Enduro 15 on all levels except the extra 8lbs of weight - which I consider a negligible difference.

Mark

[a64pilot]

Mark,
Where did you get a service manual?

[Cyrus747]

some good info guys. they are not a popular brand in my parts (BC Canada). so in comparison, do you find the Suzuki quicker than other 4 stroke motors in the same class you have owned? it has less CC's than the other brands. just wondering if I should go to a 20?