Originally Posted by MarkJ
Does it scratch the sides of the hull having the dinghy dragged up it?
Yeah. I would love to get the davits fixed up first but I think thats further off to access the parts
No. the AB has large tubes and doesn't leave any marks. I used to use the whisker pole (or spinaker pole) to keep the dinghy clear of the boat sides but found it was just too much trouble.
- - I have been doing all this "single-handedly with no outside help for the last decade. It takes maybe twice the time from what it would take with a helper.
- - I raise the dinghy in segments. Grind it up a few feet and then go forward and make sure it is not hanging up on something like the splash rail and give the halyard/bridle a push outward to get everything settled then go back and raise the dinghy the rest of the way to the lifeline tops. Stopping one or two times between in water and top of lifelines allows me also to position the dinghy - fore or aft - where I want it to be.
- - Just before the dinghy clears the lifelines I also take the dinghy painter and tie it to the anchor windlass
drum or a bow cleat. This keeps the dinghy from swinging fore and aft or otherwise doing weird things as it comes up above the lifelines.
- - As it clears the top of the lifelines the dinghy will swing to amidships and oscillate back and forth a few times depending upon how much the boat is rolling on its own. I time the swings and let out the halyard so the dinghy settles to the deck where I want it.
- - Then I do one of two things depending upon the strength of the winds across the deck. With low winds I move the halyard to the bow attachment of the dinghy and haul the dinghy bow skyward until it is almost clear of the deck. Now I can wash out the insides if necessary and also release the plug
for the air chamber between the two aluminum
hulls to let out any water that got in there.
- - If the wind
is a factor I move the halyard to a handhold/whatever midway down one pontoon and then haul up the side of the dinghy enough to get it to flop over upside down. Then lash it down to the deck eye-bolts.
- - Having the lightest possible RIB
(e.g., the aluminum
versions) makes this process very easy. Of course, everything has been removed from the dinghy before it swings inboard. Normally I do this when the dinghy is level to the tops of the lifelines as it is easy to reach inside and remove all the stuff. The outboard
motor I remove using a the mizzen mast
halyard run through a snatch block on the end of the mizzen boom. But I found a better system as my mizzen boom has a topping lift and a the mizzen sheet runs from the end of the mizzen boom down to a eye cleat on the transom. I put a snatch clip on the block at the bottom where it attaches to the transom. The I can unclip the mizzen sheet and use the mizzen boom as an adjustable crane to lift the motor to a holding pad attached to the stern railing.
- - It takes maybe 30 minutes to stow the motor and move the dinghy forward and lift it out of the water, invert it and tie it down on the foredeck. But heck, it you want to do things faster sell the boat and take an airliner to the next place. Single
handing is not difficult, it only takes a bit more time to do each step carefully. Having an assistant speeds things up but also introduces a source of random errors and misunderstandings about how you want thing done. Some things are just done better if you take matters into your own hands.