Winch Maintenance Question...

[islandplanet]

In an effort to be a bit more environmentally friendly, I'm going to use undiluted Simple Green for cleaning. I've heard it works pretty well. Will post results when I get around to servicing winches.

[bstreep]

Originally Posted by islandplanet

In an effort to be a bit more environmentally friendly, I'm going to use undiluted Simple Green for cleaning. I've heard it works pretty well. Will post results when I get around to servicing winches.

We use Simple Green for a LOT of things. However, in this case, you will likely do a whole lot more for the environment if you use just a gallon of paint thinner, then recycle it. Otherwise, you will use a gallon or more of Simple Green, and flush it along with the grease. If you are only doing a couple of winches, you can put it all back in the can for the next time.

[flopresti]

Thank you all,

I just joined the site and got loads of info. One additional hint (from the rigger who would have been doing this work if I hadn't just retired) was that, as my winches are all pairs, do the port side one (of a pair) then use the starboard one to help visualize putting it back together.

Also, I got a gal. can of carburetor cleaner (with a little basket) (from Napa, eh, mistake, I'll use paint thinner next time). This stuff dissolved my latex gloves... ?? any feedback on how poisonous it is???

Well thanks again for all the hints which I followed... (I won't post when I lose something in a drain)...._/)..... Frank

[savoir]

Originally Posted by islandplanet

In an effort to be a bit more environmentally friendly, I'm going to use undiluted Simple Green for cleaning. I've heard it works pretty well. Will post results when I get around to servicing winches.

I can't see it removing bits of old, salty and hard grease. Certainly it would lift the oil. Anyway, my maintenance schedule starts in March so I'll try it myself.

[bstreep]

Originally Posted by flopresti

do the port side one (of a pair) then use the starboard one to help visualize putting it back together.

ABSOLUTELY, Frank. I've had to go to the other one before. Also, there are lots of exploded diagrams on the net. pyachts has quite a few - but their parts prices are 3X what even WM is.

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by flopresti

Thank you all,

I just joined the site and got loads of info. One additional hint (from the rigger who would have been doing this work if I hadn't just retired) was that, as my winches are all pairs, do the port side one (of a pair) then use the starboard one to help visualize putting it back together.

Also, I got a gal. can of carburetor cleaner (with a little basket) (from Napa, eh, mistake, I'll use paint thinner next time). This stuff dissolved my latex gloves... ?? any feedback on how poisonous it is???

Well thanks again for all the hints which I followed... (I won't post when I lose something in a drain)...._/)..... Frank

Paint thinner will dissolve latex but not the blue nitrile. Acetone/MEK will dissolve the blue nitrile but not the layex. Carry both.

[Ziggy]

Originally Posted by delmarrey

Acetone/MEK will dissolve the blue nitrile but not the layex.

I didn't know that. Thanks for the tip!

[iLog Sailing]

Over many years I have used some diesel to soak the parts in which with a light brush gets rig of most grease and then a small container if white spirits to do a final rinse. The diesel I usually drain from my fuel tank, most fuel tanks have a sump drain so it gets rid of the rubbish at the bottom of our tank and serves a useful purpose.

A few tips, some old oven trays from home make ideal containers to spread all the parts out while they soak and it makes them easy to brush with a soft brush to get rid of the grease. Some old bath mats make a great work cover, cut a circle just larger than the winch in the centre then place them over the winch before you start the pull down saves you boat getting marked, placing all the components into the tray as you go, a roll of paper towel is also handy for final place to rest all cleaned components while you grease, oil and re assemble things. I keep the bath mats, trays etc in an old garbage bag at home in the shed take them to the boat annually.

[jkamer]

FYI... once I had my winch drums off, I realized that they looked worn and ugly. Found an automobile rechrome place and had them rechromed. Wow! they looked great and still do after about four years. Also had a powder coating Co. do the self tailing rings in black. Really makes the boat look almost new!

[Dynamo1181]

Originally Posted by jkamer

FYI... once I had my winch drums off, I realized that they looked worn and ugly. Found an automobile rechrome place and had them rechromed. Wow! they looked great and still do after about four years. Also had a powder coating Co. do the self tailing rings in black. Really makes the boat look almost new!

Did you have a textured surface on the drum for grip that you were able to preserve in the re-plateing process?
A

[jkamer]

Amazingly, the textured part of the drum remained textured, it was only slightly less effective and got better with use.. The chrome guys did an excellent job.

Jack

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by jkamer

Amazingly, the textured part of the drum remained textured, it was only slightly less effective and got better with use.. The chrome guys did an excellent job.

Jack

This can be a serious issue! The PO of our boat had all the winches rechromed, and the bloody chrome shop carefully ground off all the knurling, leaving a beautiful mirror finish on the drum. Slippery as greased owl poop. I've had to use 60 grit sandpaper on a block to generate some vertical texture on the surfaces, and it is an improvement, but not nearly as grippy as they should be. Easy on lines, though!

Cheers,

Jim

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

This can be a serious issue! The PO of our boat had all the winches rechromed, and the bloody chrome shop carefully ground off all the knurling, leaving a beautiful mirror finish on the drum. Slippery as greased owl poop. I've had to use 60 grit sandpaper on a block to generate some vertical texture on the surfaces, and it is an improvement, but not nearly as grippy as they should be. Easy on lines, though!

Cheers,

Jim

If you know anyone with a sand blaster, you can tape off the upper and lower part of the capstan and sand blast the center section with a reduced air pressure, just enough to brake the sheen. Cabinet type blasters usually have a pressure regulator attached.

Another alternative is paint on nonskid with a two part (hard) paint after a light wet N day sanding, which may need to be repeated but better then nothing.

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by delmarrey

If you know anyone with a sand blaster, you can tape off the upper and lower part of the capstan and sand blast the center section with a reduced air pressure, just enough to brake the sheen. Cabinet type blasters usually have a pressure regulator attached.

Another alternative is paint on nonskid with a two part (hard) paint after a light wet N day sanding, which may need to be repeated but better then nothing.

Thanks for the thoughts, Del. The sanding that I have done has long since removed the sheen... had to do something, for even with 6 wraps on the Barient 32 genoa sheet winches they would slip! With the sanded surfaces it takes but 4 wraps to get a grip

In general, random orientation friction surfaces (like sandblasting would produce) are not the best answer. Ideally one should have high friction perpendicular to the axis of the drum and zero friction parallel to the axis, for the line must "climb" up the drum as you winch in. That's why the ribbed drums on Anderson winches work so well, even though they are pretty shiny and slick!

Cheers,

Jim

[delmarrey]

My aluminum winches have a ceramic coating with sand embedded in the drum section, and the sheets seem to slide up pretty well. Just saying.......

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