Originally Posted by manitu
I'm currently planning a sail warderobe for my new project, a classic swedish "submarine with sails" 31' sailboat , not unlike the contessa 32 , but even less beam and freeboard.
The rig is a short masthead rig with single
, moderately swept spreaders , and dual lower shrouds. I allso consider a solent stay.
It comes with some old sails
, main, genoa
, working jib
and a heavy weather jib
I would like to get all new sails
and keep the old ones as spares.
Q: Wich sails do I need in my warderobe? Mostly for coastal cruising in northern Norway
The prevailing winds here are south west to north west , wich hits the coast at a 45-135 degree angle.
In adittion to the sails I got I would like a reacher to get off the lee shore in light winds.
I'll allso need a trysail and maybe a storm jib
I'm not shure if I should invest in a furler
unit. I guess the genoa
should be in use most of the time , but I don't see myself changing to the working jib on a RF in 20 kts of wind
I could use a solent stay to carry the heavy weather
sail , but I still think I'll make do with out furlers.
Would a staysail/yankee combination be of any use? and when would I use it?
Wich sails would you add to this boat?
Solent stay for storm jib
Keep it simple and avoid clutter. A lot of armchair sailors haven't dealt with the PITA factor of an inner stay on a small boat. If you were working with us, my initial proposal would probably look something like this:
with top batten full, three long partials (over 50% of girth). Going to all full length battens would add unwanted weight, remove ability to trim sail properly, and offer absolutely no real advantage in that you can't add much roach due to backstay. Two reefs
, both deeper than standard. First reef to be roughly between a conventional first and second reef. Second reef to be close to the point of a conventional third reef.
A non overlapping headsail, either with hanks or on a furler. Non overlapping headsails are easy to handle, great for sailing upwind without getting overpowered, and less costly. If the sail is on a furler, short leech battens parallel to the luff can be used to reduce leech hollow and add sail area where it does the most good. If it's hank on, conventional leech battens can be used.
CLASS (Cruisers Light Air Sail Solution) which is basically a cruising code zero
. It's different from a racing code zero
in that we don't have girth requirements to meet and the sail can be carried to almost close hauled. This eliminates the need for a large overlapping genoa. Use with a Facnor foil-less furler. This sail will do a great job down to a beam reach. If you slacken the tackline, it can be carried at deeper angles but it's really optimized for close reaching. Consider a halyard
lock to eliminate compression
load on the mast
if you really want to carry this sail close-winded. This is a versatile workhorse of a sail. We typically build in a heavy nylon (2.2-2.5).
Now let's look at broad reaching and downwind sailing. One solution would be a simple asym spinnaker
optimized for deep angles in an ATN sock. Another solution would be a set of twin nylon sails on a common luff that could be flown from the same Facnor furler you're using for the code zero. You could also carry one of your existing genoas to pole out if you didn't feel like working too hard.
As a coastal cruiser on a small shorthanded boat, a trysail is neither needed or practical. If you're unable to duck in somewhere, the deep reefed main can be used. But if you've got sea room, you might just use a storm jib by itself. If your headsail is on a furler, an ATN Gale Sail could be used.
To furl or not to furl:
If you sail singlehanded a fair amount, a furler would be advantageous. I have to wonder how many of the advocates of hank on sails have gone forward on a small boat in a blow off the Norwegian coast. It's not much fun being underwater on the bow of a boat like that. And if you're alone, you're relying on the autopilot
. I'd much rather have a human on the helm
during a sail change. One of the advantages of my sailplan for your boat is that with the non-overlapping headsail, you're seldom faced with a headsail change in adverse weather. The CLASS is easily furled and then with our headsail and a reefed main, you will be fine.
These days, there are some great alternatives to Dacron that offer great stretch resistance without a big hit to the wallet. For cruising applications on a boat this size, two possibilities are Custom Axis Laminate in Vectran and FTL (Flexible Taffeta Laminate) which is very similar to what North's Norlam.
If we went Dacron, I'd consider Marblehead for the main. The headsail isn't that large so the difference in cost between Dacron and laminate would be really minimal so I'd probably go FTL for the headsail.