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Old 15-04-2008, 13:14   #16
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Tspringer - Your lucky BB redid the chaiplates. Mine were bad. The new ones came out great. I'm happy to give you the chainplate files. I'll email later with some specifics; I changed the designs slightly, with the oversight of my rigger, to correct some quicrky things they originally did. For example the starboard aft lower chainplate had the shroud and deck/hull link offset by 6", creating a bad load path.

I agree that wire age by itself means nothing - age in the context of environment and use (amount of load and number of load/relax cycles) means everything. Wire is cheap and Sta-Loks are great!
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Old 15-04-2008, 18:11   #17
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So, any opinions between the various do-it-yourself terminal brands? Sta-lok, Norseman, Blue Wave, and what is it...Dyform? Not familiar with the last two.
Can't help with the other terminals, I have only used Sta-lok (with which I was very impressed by the quality and ease of use).
Dyform is a type of wire where the strands are not circular but "squashed" (more properly - die formed) so that more material is present within the same same radius. ie the actual cross sectional area of the wire is greater in a Dyform wire compared with a 1x19 wire for a given diameter. Therefore stronger for a given diameter. If you are using Sta-lok terminals, you have to specify 1x19 or Dyform as the wedges are different.

BTW I agree with svT that visual inspections are pudent; however in the context of deciding the remaining rigging life at refit time - not good enough.
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Old 16-04-2008, 03:22   #18
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Dyform vs 1x19 wire:
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Old 16-04-2008, 08:03   #19
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Thanks for the visual aid, Gord. So, Dyform wire is different; Does one need to buy proprietary Dyform terminals, or just different cones for (e.g.) Sta-loks?
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Old 16-04-2008, 08:30   #20
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Dyform just needs different cones. BTW, Hayne makes some mechanical terminals which are cheaper and easier to use than Sta-loks. See rigginonly.com for more info and prices on rigging and terminals.
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Old 16-04-2008, 09:15   #21
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So, Dyform is considered superior in strength over 1x19 due to there being more metal in the footprint. Are there any issues with mixing dyform and 1x19 in the same rig? As I'm having the whole rig re-done right now, it'll be all done with the same type; but out in the briny if I have an issue and need to change out a stay, if that stay is a 1x19, will that create a weak link? Is dyform harder to find internationally? I assume it's more expensive.
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Old 16-04-2008, 12:27   #22
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Anybody used Quick Attach fittings?
Quick Attach stainless steel rigging swageless mechanical fittings out preforms Sta Loc Stay Lock Norseman
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Old 16-04-2008, 17:57   #23
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So, Dyform is considered superior in strength over 1x19 due to there being more metal in the footprint. Are there any issues with mixing dyform and 1x19 in the same rig? As I'm having the whole rig re-done right now, it'll be all done with the same type; but out in the briny if I have an issue and need to change out a stay, if that stay is a 1x19, will that create a weak link? Is dyform harder to find internationally? I assume it's more expensive.
Available all over the world. A lot more expensive.
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Old 17-04-2008, 09:58   #24
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I wouldn't

I wouldn't mix and match. The stretch factors of 1x19 and Dyform are quite different. Probably would be okay to do it for a short term fix but not my 'temporary' fix.

It's good practice for a cruiser to carry bare wire equal to the longest stay and install a spare terminal on one end. Hopefully you can salvage at least one of the terminals of the failed shroud to use with a spare cone to make up any wire needed. It's not a terribly large expense and a priceless addition if you should need it. In actuality, it's doubtful that you'd need the spare. Most failures are swage, turnbuckle or chain plate related. If you start off with good mechanical terminals you've hopefully taken that possible failure out of the equation.

Dyform isn't readily available in the US. West Marine, for one, only stocks up to 6 mm (1/4") and that at their warehouse so has to be ordered. Unless you get lucky, only the largest rigging shops or suppliers will stock Dyform.

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Old 19-04-2008, 05:24   #25
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hi folks a quick note. If rerigging watch out for chinese rigging wire. Met a cruiser in Marquesas who was being a good sailor and rerigged and three of his stays broke. He switched back to his old used wires and was happy. Re poured sockets schooner western union has em. No problem on a boat. Though some would disagree, I have heard the "conventional wisdom" to be go with swaged at the top and mechanical at the bottom. Saves you from mis-measuring when you rerig, as you order it a bit long, and the saltwater generayy builds up, and thus rigging fails at the lower end of the shroud. If you dont mind the bucks may as well do both. Might be a bit hard to find poured sockets for the little wires in a cruising boat though.

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Old 19-04-2008, 07:44   #26
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If rerigging watch out for chinese rigging wire.
All wire can be a problem and may have nothing t do with where it comes from but more how it was stored. The companies that make it don't make a lot of it. No company makes enough stainless wire to be in it in a big way. There could never be enough money to be made. They do make miles of ordinary steel cable however and there is good money in that. If the spools of the stainless rigging wire is laying around with the steel wire it collects the iron dust in the foundry and that alone can cause you trouble as the dust rusts. Most of the foundries run off a bunch then don't make any for a long time. Most good riggers track the lot numbers of the cable they buy.
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Old 09-11-2008, 15:12   #27
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Re rigging is something we have to do soon. The current rig is of unknown age, must be at least 8 years old probably a lot more. I noticed in searches that Hi-Mod swageless terminals (made in the UK) were mentioned, I like the look of the attachment system inside for the wire. Has anyone used them and are willing to reccomend them over the other popular brands ?
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Old 10-11-2008, 07:42   #28
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I replaced some swages with sta-lok, and the riggers gave me some advice. They advised me to add some sealant to the wire inside the lock when I reassembled to keep out moisture.
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Old 10-11-2008, 07:59   #29
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I've used both the sta-lock and the Hi-mod. Both work great the Hi-Mod is slightly easier to put together but neither is all that difficult. I think getting a nice clean cut on the wire is probably harder than assembling the fittings. I drilled an appropriate sized hole in a short piece of 4x4 with a slot in it for the hack saw. Kept the cuts square and the wire tight during the cut.
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Old 10-11-2008, 08:04   #30
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I tried cutting the first one with cable cutters, and it turned out sloppy. I used some tape, and a hacksaw on the next one. It was not only quicker, but a nice clean cut. After it was cut I used the bottom of my sandal on the end of wire. With a small twist it opened right up to accept the cone.
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